stalkingbear

I DO shoot groups-but that's AFTER the scope is adjusted exactly where I want. I see no reason to waste shots when I'm using a very solid bench rest. After it's sighted in I'll see how small the rifle/scope/ammo combo groups.

eldeguello

I agree with one exception. I fire a shot or two at 25 yards after boresighting to verify the boresighting job. This keeps me from wasting shots at 100 yards. Which I used to do occasionally.

skeeter 7MM

Ditto for a new rifle or scope I start at 25 then move to 100.

If its a known rifle and optic I start at 100. Idon't adjust or fine tune until I have fired a few groups to verify POI for the load. I also never shoot stacked groups, I let the rifle cool adequately between groups by taking other rifles.

stubblejumper

I have been using the same boresighter for over 25 years,and I haven't not been on the paper with the first shot with any gun in over 20 years.

ndncreek

i use one of my kids laser light (laser pointer). find a way to keep the light shining down the inside of the barrel so you can adjust your scope. i used paper coin rolls and wedge it into place. after that i just adjust the cross hairs to the dot (about 40-45 paces). then take a shot at 25 yards to make sure i hit paper, then i shoot at a farther distance, and adjust from there, which is usually only elevation.

Alsatian

It seems most issues are covered. One way to bore sight is to place your rifle with the bolt removed and look down your barrel to the point at about 25 yards that you see looking down the barrel, then adjust your scope to put the cross hairs on this point. This is the most fundamental procedure of boresighting and does have the virtue of not requiring any special equipment. Perhaps it is not extremely accurate, but bore sighting is not supposed to be extremely accurate, just to be accurate enough to keep you on the paper at 100 yards.

This is a little off topic, but I always put a small dot of red nail polish on the joint between my scope and one of the scope mounts (like when I have a scope mounted on a new rifle). If the scope ever moves in the mount, you'll be able to tell. I took this action after an experience with a scope moving in the mounts.

Sight in with the same ammo you will hunt with. Try shooting different loads in your rifle to find one that shoots better than others -- different loads (different bullet weights, different manufacturers, etc.) will shoot to different aim points and with different accuracies in different rifles.

kelbro

Then, after you do all of the above... Clean your rifle as you normally would. Take the rifle the next day, run one dry patch down the bore and shoot one shot at whatever distance you are likely to shoot your game at. Adjust your crosshairs to that bullet hole. In a hunting rifle, the first shot is the one that counts. Most factory barrels will drift a little after even slightly warming up. Some more than others.

On blued steel barrels, I have found that one patch of Lock-ease down the bore after cleaning keeps my first shot very close to the POI of a warmed up barrel.

s4bill

I have always taken my rifle to a "sight in" and used their gear and assistance to get my rifle ready for deer season.

I am going to do this on my own at a nearby range.

I have a spotting scope. I believe it is an entry level (Barska Blackhawk). I imagine that will be sufficient.

I have read the advice but I am wondering what type of rest I should get?

I see different ones - some are plastic, some are metal, some are sand bags, i believe I saw a vice.

What is the best approach?

Is there a specific target that makes sighting in the scope easier?

Thanks
Bill

s4bill

Can you give me some suggestions on a specific rest?

13pointjomc

sandbags r good