propmahn

id try it with a good drill press or access to a mill, other than that i think better safe than sorry

jerseyhunter

Paulyseggs: I have what is called a Converta-Mount, See Under Bracket model no 48311 made by Weaver. Its a bracket that fits into a Converta Mount Side Base (sold sepperatley of course)also by Weaver. In which you remove the trigger plate pins with a punch, install the side plate with supplied pin screws. Then the See under Bracket can be installed onto the side plate with thumb screws. The scope sits on the bracket with O rings. You can use the Scope for Long range shots or look under the Scope and use regular shotgun bead for up close and personal. Finally by un-screwing the Thumb screws the Bracket and Scope can be Removed in one piece,Stored and stays sighted in so you can use the Shotgun for Birds as well. No need for Drilling into the Gun . I have a 870 with this setup and Have Taken deer out to 110 yds no problem. Also have a 1100 with cantleavered mount that is permanent. Had to buy a seperate Barrel for that one Good Luck and Hope this helps some. Above Brackets Fit Rem.870,1100, and 11-87 They make them for other models also. I purchased mine from Sports Authority 2 years ago.

eldeguello

You may need a carbide drill!!

uncle matt

Need for a carbide drill? OF COURSE! Something else may work but the superior hardness of carbide will be extra assurance that the drill bit won' t " walk" when you start.

WHEN YOU START, I would drill a smaller pilot hole first, probobly about 1/2 or 2/3 the necessary tap drill size. TAP? Better be a really nice fresh one, too.

I wouldn' t do it unless you have access to a really nice drill press with a bed that YOU KNOW is square to the spindle. Don' t check squareness with squares or tape measures. Gotta go to magnetic run out calipers and stuff.

OH, THE SPINDLE! I' d make sure that it doesn' t have any excess " run out" , nice and tight is what is desired.

Personally I wouldn' t hesitate to do it. But I' d do it in my shop on the mill. No drill bit. For as thin as the metal is to drill, I' d just use the appropriate mill tool and press it through real slowly and with plenty of oil. The finished bores would have to be perfectly aligned (which a properly set up mill will do) and I would only be satisfied with mirror finished holes when done (which a properly set uo and operated mill will do). I would tap with the same mill without removing the receiver from the the bed (with lots of oil or " TAP MAGIC" .

But, good one time roofer or not, I think I' d rather try your venison roast than your roofing abilities! LOL

There is an old saying, we' ve all heard it.

" JACK of all trades........MASTER of NONE!"

My honest advice?...........Give your gunsmith the work! Let him bear the responsibilty and financial liability.

Uncle Matt (in IL)

P.S....If you do try it yourself..........don' t mention it to anyone until you are done, your scope is mounted, sighted in and your success is verified. You know how many years the ribbing can go on if you mess up?

" He shouldn' t have even tried! He' s cross eyed!"

" Fool was left handed and used a right handed drill!"

" SOCKET? I thought he said SPROCKET!"

eldeguello

Having done some of this work myself, as described above, I certainly agree with Uncle Mat! Let your gunsmith do it, if you have one that YOU KNOW CAN DRILL & TAP GOOD HOLES! This is about the most rudimentary work a gunsmith learns to do, but there are some who call themselves " gunsmiths" that can even mess up a hole drilling job!!