building a mauser
01-20-2002, 08:57 AM
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: pawhuska OK USA
Posts: 94
building a mauser
I want to build a mauser actioned .308. I dont want any thing fancy just to shoot. How would one go about doing this? I've seen the stock and barrel combos in like midway and stuff. Are these just like dropin or do you need a gunsmith to put them together
01-20-2002, 04:13 PM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Body in SE WI, mind in U.P.
Posts: 4,781
RE: building a mauser
You would want a smith to do it as it takes special tools to rebarrel and chamber. You could pck up a surplus spanish rifle that's already chambered for .308 though and cut the barrel down and restock it- though it would probably be a hassle to find one with a good barrel and its kid of the luck of the draw getting an accurate one.
01-21-2002, 08:30 AM
#3
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Greensboro NC USA
Posts: 563
RE: building a mauser
Eyeball, If you have the Mauser action, there are a few things that you will need for a Do-It-Yourself project. All the items can be gotten from Brownell's. You will need some kind of barrel vise, a .308 Win finish chamber reamer, and a set of .308 Win Go/No Go headspace gauges. You could go the cheap way and get a Shaw or Adams&Bennett barrel from Midway or some place, or you could get a good Shilen barrel from Brownell's, that is pre-contoured, pre-threaded, and pre-chamber. The chamber is cut several thousandths short so you will have to use the finish chamber reamer to cut the last little bit, after you have installed the new barrel in the action. You use the reamer to cut a couple thousandths at a time, then flush the chamber to remove the shavings, install bolt and insert the Go gauge. Repeat this as neccessary until the bolt handle closes on the Go gauge, then insert the No Go and try to close the bolt, it should not close. Then you have the proper headspace.
Another method is to use a Pull Thru Chamber Reamer. It uses the bolt's camming pressure to apply the pressure to the reamer. The reamer is turned by a mandrel or shaft, that is passed thru the bore. The thrust bushing rides in the bolt face and the bolt is closed
as uch as possible. The reamer is turn by the shaft until the bolt "drops" closed, and the headspace is set, to minimum specs, much like a match rifle"s chamber.
Of course you could always get the components yourself and have your gunsmith do it. You will probably need to have him blue the barreled action for you as a minimum, and you could have him double check your headspace at the same time.
As far as, stock go, you can pretty much get them in just about any style and any material, wood, laminate, and synthetic, semi-finished or drop in, from Boyd's to Fajen, from RamLine to McMillan.
Check out http://www.brownells.com for everything you will need.
Another method is to use a Pull Thru Chamber Reamer. It uses the bolt's camming pressure to apply the pressure to the reamer. The reamer is turned by a mandrel or shaft, that is passed thru the bore. The thrust bushing rides in the bolt face and the bolt is closed
as uch as possible. The reamer is turn by the shaft until the bolt "drops" closed, and the headspace is set, to minimum specs, much like a match rifle"s chamber.
Of course you could always get the components yourself and have your gunsmith do it. You will probably need to have him blue the barreled action for you as a minimum, and you could have him double check your headspace at the same time.
As far as, stock go, you can pretty much get them in just about any style and any material, wood, laminate, and synthetic, semi-finished or drop in, from Boyd's to Fajen, from RamLine to McMillan.
Check out http://www.brownells.com for everything you will need.
01-21-2002, 11:33 AM
#4
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: PA
Posts: 9,085
RE: building a mauser
y not jsut buy one in 308...and do the stock and bluing if needed...or buy a sporterized one and save urslef the hassel and cost...but if you want to buy jsut an action and make a gun....i duno nothin about it...1 shot summed it up im betting...
mauser06
mauser06
01-21-2002, 12:15 PM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Body in SE WI, mind in U.P.
Posts: 4,781
RE: building a mauser
Anytime you change a barrel, you need to set the haedspace- this is done by reaming the chamber. You always wnat the headspace to be tight as you can always increase it easily by reaming the chamber or lapping the locking lugs, but you cannot decrease the headspace without removing the barrel and trimming a bit of (for a lack of a technical definition.
01-21-2002, 04:10 PM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Body in SE WI, mind in U.P.
Posts: 4,781
RE: building a mauser
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote<font size=1 face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Yep, just finished reamed. You will end up paying twice as much to re-worked a mauser than the price of a remington or winchester and the gun will only be worth 1/2 as much.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' size=2 id=quote>
Very true, and if the action was taken from a rifle with any collector value, the collector value would be negated also.
Very true, and if the action was taken from a rifle with any collector value, the collector value would be negated also.
01-21-2002, 05:36 PM
#9
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Greensboro NC USA
Posts: 563
RE: building a mauser
The stocks may be, but never assume that any barrel is a drop in. Even if it is taken a barrel is take off, say a Rem M-700 and to be installed on another Rem M-700, never assume that the headspace is going to be correct.
