I just bought a new savage model 16 in .300 wsm and was wondering what the barrell break in preocdure is and how important it is? this is my first gun and im wondering why u have to break it in and what happens if u dont? any input would be appreciated.

Well I can tell you the break in procedure that I use. There is more than one method but they are similar in the sense that you will spend lots of time, use lots of patches and brushes, and fire few shots.
For the first 10 shots I shoot once, then clean after each shot. For the next 15 shots I will shoot 3 times then clean. For the next 40-50 shots I will shoot 5 times then clean. Then I am done.
For cleaning, I first use patches with Shooters Choice until the powder residue is gone, then I run a few patches with CR-10 copper remover to get the barrel coated with copper cleaner. I let it set a few minutes then use a bronze brush with copper remover and start really getting at it. I use at least 20 full strokes with the brush, putting more solvent on every few strokes. After that, I then run patches with copper remover on them until I dont get anymore blue (a lot of the blue you'll get right awayis from the brush, the copper remover will dissolve that too). Once I dont have any more blue (dissolved copper) I then run 2 dry patches, then 1 shooters choice patch to clean any ammonia residue, then 1 dry patch, then 1 patch of Hollands bore lube. Done.
There are lots of arguments as to whether this is all worth it. I think the barrel cleans a lot faster and easier with a break in. I do this for all my rifles, but it pays off more on my prairie dog guns which get cleaned more oftenin one day than most deer rifles get cleaned all year.
One more thing, if you decide to do the break in dont use moly bullets, combined technology, or the blue barnes bullets. You need have the copper in contact with the barrel steel.

BC you will get MANY stories on barrel break in, here is what Savage posts on the topic direct from their website, I don't think you can go wrong following their advice:

[ul][*][size=2 align="left"]Fire one round[/size][*][size=2 align="left"]Push wet patches soaked with a powder solvent through the bore[/size][*][size=2 align="left"]Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)[/size][*][size=2 align="left"]Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)[/size][*][size=2 align="left"]Push wet patches soaked with a copper solvent through the bore[/size][*][size=2 align="left"]Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)[/size][*][size=2 align="left"]Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)[/size][*][size=2 align="left"]Push a patch with 2 drops of oil through the bore[/size] [/ul][ul][*][size=2 align="left"]Fire a 3 shot group[/size][*][size=2 align="left"]Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1 after each group[/size] [/ul][ul][*][size=2 align="left"]Fire a 5 shot group[/size][*][size=2 align="left"]Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1[/size] [/ul]

I followed the procedure laid out on the Savage site for my 30-06 that I bought 2 years ago. I am sure there are several methods to follow but it worked for me as my '06 is really accurate and I am pleased....

I recently did quite a bit of reading up on barrell break-in and you will find many different suggestions, as previously stated. The one common thing I found was to try to ensure that you remove as much copper as possible during the break-in, as it can greatly affect accuracy and is much tougher to extract after considerable shooting. Do not use a copper brush with copper remover either, as it will eat the brush up. I used a jag and patches, running 2 patches after every shot for the first 10, then ran 2 patches after every 3 shots for 15 shots, then 2 patches after every 5 shots for 20 shots and then 2 patches after a 10 shot group. I also run patches through with copper remover after shooting since then, until I get a clean or relatively clean looking patch.

Factory rifles have been shot several times at the factory. I still break in factory barrels the same as rifles I build.
I clean the barrel thoroughly with a one piece stainless rod, bore brush, and solventthen a jag/patch withJB's, then wipe it out well with more solvent on patches. Dry it out, then shoot one round. I repeat this 10 times. Then shoot several 5 shot strings, cleaning between strings.
Most people never break in factory rifle barrels and they do just fine. I prefer to take every opportunity to ensure accuracy.

I don't really follow a break in routine persay but I do the following for an off the shelf rifle/barrel. First clean the gun real good to remove the packing grease, run JB bore paste through the bore 100-200 passes to remove any burrs from the rifling process.Finally a lightoil and run a dry patch when I am ready to shoot.Then load her up and shoot, never letting the barrel get to hot. I then completely clean the bore at home, including copper removal but this I do everytime I shoot (except if verifing POI just before hunting).

thanks for all the input everyone im going to sight it in tomorrow so ill take all of your advice into consideration.

BC, the break in process is tedious but don't rush it. It will pay off in the long run in a more accurate and easier to clean rifle. Follow the breakin procedure by Savage and you will be fine.

In regard to factory rifles I've done it both ways, breaking in rifles with the tedious methods and not breaking them in at all (except for just going out and shooting them, which eventually does something I suppose).Breaking in rifles hashad absolutely zero effect on my ability to take game, so I don't bother any more with it. I hated doing it anyway.

When I rebarreled one of my rifles recently with a Lilja barrel I was prepared to do what Lilja recommends, but the folks who installed it, Hill Country Rifles, had already done a 10 shot break in before shipping it back to me. I'm thankful I didn't have to bother with it.