Had some time to kill, so I decided to refinish an old single shot 22. The stock is completely stripped and I'm wondering what would be a good hard finish to protect the wood without acting like a mirror ? A matte finish so it won't reflect the sun.

There is a product called "Tru Oil" that I have used with succes over quite a few years. You put a couple of drops of it on an area about 6 square inches, and wet sand it into the wood with black sandpaper. Start with 320 grit - work your way up to 600. After each section is lightly sanded, wipe off with a clean piece of tissue and allow to dry. It takes a number of coats to fill the pores in the wood; but once you get there, it is a beautiful finish. If you ever get a scratch in the finish, you can simply put a small drop of the oil on it and wet sand it out in a few seconds.

Thanks Roskoe, I'll try to find some "Tru Oil", and give it a try.

You can get tru oil at wally world for pennies and it is terrific stuff. I use 3XXX steel wool between coats. The secret is getting it sanded first then using the tru oil. I use 220 then 400 sandpaper between coats, then 3XXX then 4XXXX steelwool and you can come up with a sensational finish. It just take time and patience. Just don't use much! a few drops goes a long way. Especially towards the end. Rub it in with your palm.....after a few tries, you'll get the hang of it. Lots of real thin coats and you will be rewarded. Regards, Rick.

Tru-oil is good, and I've used it for years. However, my last 2 muzzleloaders I finished with clear satin finish polyurethane. This is a non-glare finish, seals the wood and brings out the grain like tru oil does but is less messy and takes less time to dry.

True Oil by Birchwood Casey, can be bought at wally world.
Paint a very light coat over the stock. Allow it to dry for 24 hours. Then mix a 50-50 mixture of oil and mineral spirits. Use this mixture to wet sand the finish. Saturate your sand piper andportion of woodto the point that it feels like its just gliding over the stock. Play special attention to sanding out the drips and runs. When You get done the finish will look cloudy. You need to sand approximately 80 %of the coat away. I start with 320 for the first couple of coats then move to 400, 600, 800,1200. On the last coat I use 1200. The trick is to slowly build up finish. In the endyou buff the cloud out finish for a glossy effect thenyou can use steel wool to "matte" it to your liking.

Tru-Oil is fine---Satin polyurethane is fine, also. It is important to fill the grain of the wood before proceeding to final finish. )ne thing I learned years ago..... after you get the old finish removed,and before you start putting on the new, sand with 320 and then place the sanded stock under hot running water and let dry. This will bring up the "whiskers" in the wood. Sand them off, and repeat this until no more appear. You can now start the finishing process. As for a good satin finish, I like to use an automotive rubbing compound after the last coat is THOROUGHLY dry, followed by a good paste wax. Touch-up from light scratches is easy with a small amount of Tru-Oil. Good luck...................

i have refinished around ten guns in the past 2-3 years and i would have to agree and say use the true oil. you can buy a true oil kit that has everything you need including sand paper, steel wool, walnut stain, the oil, and instructions.

WOW sounds awesome. My Ithaca stock is down to rough wood. Should I use a filler of some type before applying the oil that you have all recomended?
Thanks C7

Here's a stock I just finished and the product was spray Polyurethane in satin. Spray it on and sand it off until the pores are filled. This can be many many coats but keep at it. When the pores are filled it'll shine beautifully and then you're ready to checker...