RE: Loc-tite?
 

I have never used loctite on any of my bases or rings but I inquired with our supplier at work just to make sure and he said that the blue was removable and the red was permanent. I did receive a sample of the #248 blue medium strength and might try it if I have any problems with my new rifles.

RE: Loc-tite?
 

I clean up the threads with alcohol before applying loctite. It seems to help.

RE: Loc-tite?
 

Ya, that loctite is great stuff. I think the label on the red says you can remove it with heat and hand tools.

RE: Loc-tite?
 

The Blue LocTite is #242. Don't use the RED #262.You'll never break it loose. On bigger parts the Red is removeable when heated.Small stuff like base screws use only the Blue #242.

Ruger Redhawk

RE: Loc-tite?
 

I use the Blue too

RE: Loc-tite?
 

Funny, I guess somebody forgot to tell the red locktite I've been using that it needs heat to break it free. the t-10 torx wrench that comes with Leupold bases and rings break it free every time. You only need a little dab.

RE: Loc-tite?
 

I just use it on the base screws. Sometimes I don't use it at all. I have never had a base come loose so far. However I have forgotten to tighten them a few times.

RE: Loc-tite?
 

You will find some variations on this from gunsmith to gunsmith; but I generally use red loctitie on the bases and blue on the rings. Also use a light dusting of powdered rosin on the inside of the bottom half of the rings to keep the scope from slipping. For red (271) loctite to really stick, the surface must be completely degreased - and, better yet, taped off and bead blasted to really let it bite into the metal. Yet, it will still come off with about 500 degrees of heat. Removing the base is something that isn't usually done very often. Some actions need it off to remove the barrel . . . but how often does that need to be done? Good bases like Leupold or Warne should last the life of the rifle.