The deal/the situation...boat repair
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: WV
Posts: 4,485
The deal/the situation...boat repair
greetings guys
I bought a little pontoon boat. Only paid $125.00 for it but there is a crack in the stern area of one of the pontoons....the whole thing is plastic/composite/whatever. I need a little advice on how best to repair this thing. If I can do so with minimal cost/effort than this has been a really good deal. Thanks
I bought a little pontoon boat. Only paid $125.00 for it but there is a crack in the stern area of one of the pontoons....the whole thing is plastic/composite/whatever. I need a little advice on how best to repair this thing. If I can do so with minimal cost/effort than this has been a really good deal. Thanks
Last edited by hillbillyhunter1; 02-20-2011 at 08:57 AM.
#7
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: WV
Posts: 4,485
I've been reading up a little and I believe I should actually drill a small hole at the ends of the crack to keep it from expanding.
Then there is something called whaley-welding, where you actually use duct-tape (I know...I'm from WV...lol), heat it up,...and put lots of layers on it heating and applying them with pressure.
The only problem, on the examples of this technique I've seen on the internet, they were applying the "weld" on the inside of the boat. That is not going to be possible for me as the pontoons are hollow but sealed all the way around....so my "weld", if that's the rout I take will have to be on the outside and below the waterline. Any thoughts on that??? any other suggestions????
Thanks
chad--hb
Then there is something called whaley-welding, where you actually use duct-tape (I know...I'm from WV...lol), heat it up,...and put lots of layers on it heating and applying them with pressure.
The only problem, on the examples of this technique I've seen on the internet, they were applying the "weld" on the inside of the boat. That is not going to be possible for me as the pontoons are hollow but sealed all the way around....so my "weld", if that's the rout I take will have to be on the outside and below the waterline. Any thoughts on that??? any other suggestions????
Thanks
chad--hb
#8
You may want ot try what I used on my leak the last time..will cost you 6.00
At WAmart...in their caulk selection ..they have an expensive caulk { My dad told me about { -;|} which is much more heavy duty..Its their best and it 's a siloncon....
OK ..it comes in a short 8 inch tube ..called
Premium Waterproof
SILICONE 100%
sun/freeze proof
I'd either try this or Shoe Goo..both can be bought at Walmart..and both have worked for me..super water proof.
the only deal..you like me..will have to make sure that you don't drag your vessel over rough places ..as this will most likely open up the leak..I'm on my 5th { At least fishing trip since the Siloicon job} no leaks yet..J BWelder couold not fix this one..It was on a seam..The Silicon did the trick along with God's blessing.
At WAmart...in their caulk selection ..they have an expensive caulk { My dad told me about { -;|} which is much more heavy duty..Its their best and it 's a siloncon....
OK ..it comes in a short 8 inch tube ..called
Premium Waterproof
SILICONE 100%
sun/freeze proof
I'd either try this or Shoe Goo..both can be bought at Walmart..and both have worked for me..super water proof.
the only deal..you like me..will have to make sure that you don't drag your vessel over rough places ..as this will most likely open up the leak..I'm on my 5th { At least fishing trip since the Siloicon job} no leaks yet..J BWelder couold not fix this one..It was on a seam..The Silicon did the trick along with God's blessing.
Last edited by Chuck7; 02-20-2011 at 09:29 AM.
#9
WOW!!! after looking at the pics..that is no hairline crack..that is a serious crack/break..not sure silicon will fix that one as the structure itself is weak..I had no idea the crack was that bad...
Personally..I would stick a good gob of Shoe Goo in that area...let dry over night and be careful not to scrap that boat over a rough area..that boat would fill up with water very fast the way it is..SHOE GOO Is good for fixing larrge problems..silcon..for hair line fractures..
Walmart sells Shoe Goo for under 6.00 Warning ..try not to get Shoe Goo on your hands..left me with a rash for months
Personally..I would stick a good gob of Shoe Goo in that area...let dry over night and be careful not to scrap that boat over a rough area..that boat would fill up with water very fast the way it is..SHOE GOO Is good for fixing larrge problems..silcon..for hair line fractures..
Walmart sells Shoe Goo for under 6.00 Warning ..try not to get Shoe Goo on your hands..left me with a rash for months
#10
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: WV
Posts: 4,485
Thanks Chuck,
you're right. what I originally described as a hairline crack (in my other post) was because that is what I saw thru pics from the seller on craigslist. It is a little more than that. I'm still considering that whaley welding or even plastic welding but that shoe goo stuff may be the first step in the process. I still think I should also "drill out" the ends of the crack.
you're right. what I originally described as a hairline crack (in my other post) was because that is what I saw thru pics from the seller on craigslist. It is a little more than that. I'm still considering that whaley welding or even plastic welding but that shoe goo stuff may be the first step in the process. I still think I should also "drill out" the ends of the crack.