Why in particular did your advisor recommend the A4 clone to you?

Based on what you have described, I don't believe that the A4 clone has any distinct advantage to offer you over any other 20" model. The A2 stock isn't collapsible, and it's relatively bulky, and the A2 sight isn't an advantage if you're planning a red-dot or telescoping optic. The clamshell, non-free float forend is a disadvantage as well. If you're wanting a flip-up set of BUS's, then the A2 gas block/sight isn't an advantage.

There are a million variations of a 20" AR-15 to choose from, I wouldn't say that I think an A4 clone has any real advantage over many other models, other than it's relatively cheap (A2 stock, mil-spec trigger, cheap flash hider, cheap clamshell forend, cheap front sight/gas block), and it does have specific disadvantages.

I personally only have one AR that is not free floated, and I've considered many times doing a FF conversion to it. The only reason that ONE is not free floated is because it's an M4A2 - a rifle that I wanted to be true to form. For all other purposes, the free float forend is worth owning. I had a DPMS Lo-Pro Classic for a time that was a VERY accurate rifle, as long as I shot it free recoil from a rest. Any pressure on the forend from different shooting positions or bipods would string my shots all over the target. I converted it over to a DPMS Sweet 16 float tube and completely eliminated that problem.

If you're planning on a vertical foregrip, especially with a bipod, then I'd highly recommend that you use a free-float forend. You'll be putting variable forces upon the forend from different shooting positions, whether it's downward and rearward tension when firing off hand, or upward pressure when firing off of the bipod. If you're shooting off hand with a supporting sling, you'll be intermittently producing lateral pressure on the forend... All of those variable pressures and tensions will be drawing against a 12" leverarm that is the forward mount for the forend if you don't use a free-float forend.

I'd also make the recommendation that you take a look at the angled foregrips, like the Magpul AFG2. It's actually much more comfortable for shooting positions, and gives better control on the rifle when carried low ready.

If I was only interested in a close quarter gun I'd use a 12 gauge short barreled shotgun with an extended tube - I guess that's my point.

My AR is set up for multi-target acquisition up to 300 + yards !

16" would be more than fine with FF fore end and full length rail - angled grip (or broom handle , if you'd like) - red dot, laser or holographic scope; light is a given.


Night "hunting" is another whole world :arms:

http://nvdepot-px.rtrk.com/


Go have some fun - bring plenty of ammo !!! :kt:

If you're really only shooting 100yrds, then I'd agree with Sheridan's suggestions for optics. An open-style red dot or holographic sight is likely your best option. I'm personally prone to lean towards more versatile options, meaning a low magnification scope or an open holo sight with a magnifier, such that if I needed to shoot further than 100, I have that option. The advantage to an open red dot or holo instead of a scope being the open view of the field around the optic, whereas the disadvantage is that the precision on the dot is not as great as a crosshair. If you're handy with open sights, then you can save a lot of money by skipping the optics altogether - 100yrds or less on coyotes or larger targets really isn't asking much.

So maybe "what do you want to be able to hit?" should be the next question? If you're shooting itty bitty targets at 100yrds, magnification helps a lot. If you're shooting cardoors at 300yrds, then there's less expectation for precision.