Broadhead lenght?
08-07-2008, 06:27 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location:
Posts: 60
Broadhead lenght?
Looking at a lot of broadheads for my xbow. Seems to methe short stubby ones like Slick Tricks, the new Muzzys ect. are meant to duplicate target point accuracy. I see a flaw in this. They miss out on a lot of cutting surface. A blade that is say 1 3/4" in length gives a lot of edge for veins and arteries toslide along increasing damage and blood loss. I grew up using Bear razor heads and cedar shafts in my recurve so I may be missing the point here. I always thought size matters, especially in broadheads. Comments?
08-07-2008, 09:15 AM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: arkansas
Posts: 3,147
RE: Broadhead lenght?
Bill Troubridge, co owner and co founder of Excal writes a monthly column in HBM, the quarterly publication of the ACF. Here's a link, scroll down several issues to "The Cutting Edge". Lot's of good reading in his [and others] columns, btw.The Slicks were good to me on the targets and awesome in the field. My choice is the 100 gr 1 1/8" diameter ones, fwiw. [my impressions, lol]
http://www.horizontalbowhunter.com/news/news.asp?ID=22
08-07-2008, 11:40 AM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: No.MN
Posts: 1,053
RE: Broadhead lenght?
The stubby blades prevent the crossbow arrow form planing. IMO. I prefer 4 blades, Slicks to be specific, that makes for 4 cutting surfaces and leave nice entry/exit wounds for increased blood tail.
08-07-2008, 01:51 PM
#6
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 604
RE: Broadhead lenght?
To me there are pro's and con's to both stubby and long broadheads.
Usually the short stubby heads do not have the greater cutting dia. so they can come up short in reaching (cutting) for a main artery for massive blood loss. Yes the 4 blade heads have a greater cutting surface, but that extra 1/4 or 1/2" in length of blade can mean cutting or not cutting a main artery. A major problem with 2 blades is that the cutting angle can go right beside a main artery without even cutting it.
The short stubby heads are usually more accurate because they catch less air and do not have a tendicy to plane like the larger heads do (this is why I use a quality mechanical head). One problem with the short stubby heads which many do not think about is the angle of shot at the game. Your broadhead must have the tip to start tracking in the game before the blades make contact, if not, them you could have your arrow deflect instead of entering the animal. Because of the nature of a short stubby head, your angle of entry must be kept to a more straight on shot then would be needed with the longer heads. (just check yourself with your head with a straight edge and see at which angle the head is when the blades makes contact before the tip)
Also the short stubby (same weight heads) can usually add thickness to the blades for extra strength because the bodies are not as heavy as the longer heads.
Just some thinking for your head choice. Hope it helps you.
Usually the short stubby heads do not have the greater cutting dia. so they can come up short in reaching (cutting) for a main artery for massive blood loss. Yes the 4 blade heads have a greater cutting surface, but that extra 1/4 or 1/2" in length of blade can mean cutting or not cutting a main artery. A major problem with 2 blades is that the cutting angle can go right beside a main artery without even cutting it.
The short stubby heads are usually more accurate because they catch less air and do not have a tendicy to plane like the larger heads do (this is why I use a quality mechanical head). One problem with the short stubby heads which many do not think about is the angle of shot at the game. Your broadhead must have the tip to start tracking in the game before the blades make contact, if not, them you could have your arrow deflect instead of entering the animal. Because of the nature of a short stubby head, your angle of entry must be kept to a more straight on shot then would be needed with the longer heads. (just check yourself with your head with a straight edge and see at which angle the head is when the blades makes contact before the tip)
Also the short stubby (same weight heads) can usually add thickness to the blades for extra strength because the bodies are not as heavy as the longer heads.
Just some thinking for your head choice. Hope it helps you.
08-07-2008, 05:19 PM
#7
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: arkansas
Posts: 3,147
RE: Broadhead lenght?
ORIGINAL: GrumpyTom
To me there are pro's and con's to both stubby and long broadheads.
Usually the short stubby heads do not have the greater cutting dia. so they can come up short in reaching (cutting) for a main artery for massive blood loss. Yes the 4 blade heads have a greater cutting surface, but that extra 1/4 or 1/2" in length of blade can mean cutting or not cutting a main artery. A major problem with 2 blades is that the cutting angle can go right beside a main artery without even cutting it.
The short stubby heads are usually more accurate because they catch less air and do not have a tendicy to plane like the larger heads do (this is why I use a quality mechanical head). One problem with the short stubby heads which many do not think about is the angle of shot at the game. Your broadhead must have the tip to start tracking in the game before the blades make contact, if not, them you could have your arrow deflect instead of entering the animal. Because of the nature of a short stubby head, your angle of entry must be kept to a more straight on shot then would be needed with the longer heads. (just check yourself with your head with a straight edge and see at which angle the head is when the blades makes contact before the tip)
Also the short stubby (same weight heads) can usually add thickness to the blades for extra strength because the bodies are not as heavy as the longer heads.
Just some thinking for your head choice. Hope it helps you.
To me there are pro's and con's to both stubby and long broadheads.
Usually the short stubby heads do not have the greater cutting dia. so they can come up short in reaching (cutting) for a main artery for massive blood loss. Yes the 4 blade heads have a greater cutting surface, but that extra 1/4 or 1/2" in length of blade can mean cutting or not cutting a main artery. A major problem with 2 blades is that the cutting angle can go right beside a main artery without even cutting it.
The short stubby heads are usually more accurate because they catch less air and do not have a tendicy to plane like the larger heads do (this is why I use a quality mechanical head). One problem with the short stubby heads which many do not think about is the angle of shot at the game. Your broadhead must have the tip to start tracking in the game before the blades make contact, if not, them you could have your arrow deflect instead of entering the animal. Because of the nature of a short stubby head, your angle of entry must be kept to a more straight on shot then would be needed with the longer heads. (just check yourself with your head with a straight edge and see at which angle the head is when the blades makes contact before the tip)
Also the short stubby (same weight heads) can usually add thickness to the blades for extra strength because the bodies are not as heavy as the longer heads.
Just some thinking for your head choice. Hope it helps you.
08-07-2008, 06:11 PM
#8
Fork Horn
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 159
RE: Broadhead lenght?
I think the more cutting edge the better. These short little snub nose broadheads fly better than the longer ones, but the problem is even if you had 2 heads with 1" cutting diameter, a short head with 1/2" blades has only 1-1/2" total cutting surface as opposed to a 1" blade having 3" of cutting surface. The more cutting surface the more hemorrhage. The short heads are easier to get to fly, but with a little work, the longer head will fly too.
08-07-2008, 10:51 PM
#9
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
RE: Broadhead lenght?
ORIGINAL: Urban Legend
I think the more cutting edge the better. These short little snub nose broadheads fly better than the longer ones, but the problem is even if you had 2 heads with 1" cutting diameter, a short head with 1/2" blades has only 1-1/2" total cutting surface as opposed to a 1" blade having 3" of cutting surface. The more cutting surface the more hemorrhage. The short heads are easier to get to fly, but with a little work, the longer head will fly too.
I think the more cutting edge the better. These short little snub nose broadheads fly better than the longer ones, but the problem is even if you had 2 heads with 1" cutting diameter, a short head with 1/2" blades has only 1-1/2" total cutting surface as opposed to a 1" blade having 3" of cutting surface. The more cutting surface the more hemorrhage. The short heads are easier to get to fly, but with a little work, the longer head will fly too.
being accurate is way i would go.
like awshucks says, stick with slick trick 100s.
it does not take much to get deer.
secret is placing that shot in heart or lungs BEHIND shoulder.
i like them a lot ,i also like nap points also.
but slick tricks i feel are better,i may go to them and drop my SPITFIRES this year.
i am from old school and like fix points but also like spitfires too.
08-08-2008, 09:16 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Chesterfield County, VA
Posts: 217
RE: Broadhead lenght?
I've been shooting the Magnus 100 grain Stingers and they fly out of my crossbow the same as my field points. I have shot a few deer with them and there has been no trouble following a blood trail even in the darkness. My only complaint is they are so long they hang out a little from under my Excal quiver. I once set my crossbow over myknee while sitting in a treestand and got a little poke from one of the corners of the blade sticking out. But I mounted my quiver on top with Wyvern's mount so I now have a better eye on them than when it was mounted underneath and out of my lineof sight and my crossbow now lays flat.
