You should be wrecking arrows at 20 yards Pappy and forget about the broadheads until you get it shooting the way you want with field tips.

It sounds like something is loose or maybe a cocking issue if your not grouping them tighter than 6 inches off a bench. I would give you some advise but your already getting better than I could give you. I just pick up the Pheonix and she hits where I point her.I'm sure you will be just fine.

Good info guys... Hotburn76, I hate to tell you this, but I'm brand new to this Excalibur and don't know what my brace height is or how to even adjust it? I wish it was Aug and I was going thru all this.. not when bucks are running to and fro with their heads down on the ground looking for does!

Brace height is the location of the string on the rail after the bow has been strung, before being cocked. On the newer model bows, I believe that there are 2 lines. It is recommended to keep the string between the two lines. To shorten or lengthen or shorten this, all you have to do is put another twist or two into or out of your string before you string the bow. Basicly it will just control speed, the closer to the scope your string sits, the less speed you will have (talking only a few feet per second here).

Pydpiper gave some good pointers as we start to get deeper into this to try and solve this. With my earlier suggestions I was hoping that it was the basic problem that alot have come across before without having to start to disassemble things. But since you seemed to have ruled out them, we can start to check out the other things.

Rule out arrows ......... pick out 1 arrow that is straight (roll arrow on edge of table, fletch just off edge)
use target head ......... tightly screwed on
Check the thightness of screws on the bow as well as the scope
IF you want to rule out the scope, mount the factory pin site and try it, your group whould still be within 2 inches (from a good rest) at 20 yards.

Hope this helps you.

Your brace height is the distance your string sits on the rail in relation to the riser. Here you will see mine is set at 1 and 1/8 of an inch, pretty standard setting.
The riser is aluminum chunk you see that the rule is resting against.

Pappy,

I agree with Planter. At 20 yards you should be destroying arrows. At 40 yards my setup is capable of putting broadheads in the same hole, from a rest.

Pydpiper posted a picture in the thread below about plastic washers that is worth a look. Where are you located??

Bob

http://www.excaliburcrossbow.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20096

As mentioned above you should have two lines at the end of your rail.You can almost see them in Pydpiper pics. Now this could have nothing to do with it, but if your BH is set so low that the string is still in contact with the arrow from slapping so far forward that it is pushing the arrow when there is no railto guide the arrow it could be affecting it like you say. I just mentioned this because there has to be something way off base going on. Everyone that buys one of these is like a kid on Christmas when sighting in. Scope mountas Dave said, or if the brace Hight is set so low its off the chart. Another thing that makes me think BH could be affecting it is you are unsure of what it is. That means you probably have just enough twist in string to slip it on, which would make it low, and then a string when shot will stretch a bunchin the first few shots putting it even lower. I am still new at the Excal game, but am curious as to your setting. There has to be something big we are not getting, but give us time and we will!

Well, checked my brace height... it was less than 1/2" from the aluminum riser. Tightened it up by twisting the string, shot a couple before I went out hunting... seemed a little better. Had to do some adjusting to my red dot. At 20 yards my broadheads were hitting 4" apart. Tomorrow I'll try some field points to see how they are grouping. My buddy at work swears by Slick Tricks... I laughed and told him someone on the crossbow website mentioned the same thing! I really want to get that Lumizone back on there and do some more testing. I get home from work at 4 p.m. so I only have a few minutes to test everything before I go out. As long as I can hit a 6" circle at 20 yards, I know I can make a lethal shot, but I'd like to have this thing driving tacks like I keep hearing about.

Cossack wrote... "Went to Gold Ring Lazer II's with 110 gr brass insert, 2" Blazer vanes and 100 gr Slick Trick mags. AWESOME!!"

How do I get bolts made like this? Are they mail order, or do I have to find a shop around here to make them up?

I did check the plastic washer issue... mine were hanging out there a little bit. I trimmed them flush with the riser, the seem fine now.

Love the way I can cock this thing with the rope puller... and to release it once you get home. Keep it simple... I like the ideas incorporated into this bow. I'll do some testing on Thanksgiving Day and get back to you guys. I do think we're headed in the right direction so far. Thanks guys!

I had same problem, 3 of 6 gt were not straight, sent them back, got much better with 125 gr field points, foc was low. still had problems as i would shoot a flier every 3 shots and not the same arrow. I took tip off arrow and put it under the string backwards so the vanes were at the front of the bow. their is a plastic shim sticking out and you could see where the vane was hitting it, i just trimmed it with a razor knife. Added weight to get foc to 13%, put in brass front inserts. can hit a quarter every shot at 20 yards. Now i shoot 100 gr slick trick magums, all I can say is "WOW"

Good luck. Stan
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Here is the shim.