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RE: arrow
T-R-O-U-B-R-I-D-G-E, lol. His wife owns 1/2 the company, btw. [Kath]
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RE: arrow
Thanks for the spelling lesson Dan, apparently I needed it.
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I would still like to see pictures of this thing...
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RE: arrow
Like DNK said send Arthur P a PM and he should get back to ya. He knows alot more then most of us on them style of CB's. However, going with a longer bolt, 15-16", would give it a little more stability and make for better accuracy and easiertuning. I've also found that going up in tip weight helps with stability. I'll probably be using Ribtek 160's on mine. Might even goup tothe 190's, but I don't have any of them to test yet. They sell Ribteks at www.kustom-king.com if you want to take a peek at 'em. They've got the Howard Hill heads too and they'd be good. Being a cheap ol' fart, I like the price of the Ribbies better. ;) |
RE: arrow
ORIGINAL: Dnk Thanks for the spelling lesson Dan, apparently I needed it. |
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Thats funny! Probably seen them coming and headed where it was safe..:D
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hi can u give me Arthur P email adress
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ORIGINAL: samby hi can u give me Arthur P email adress |
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Samby, I tried to reply to your e-mail but I couldn't get through. So I'll do it here.
There's not much I can add to my suggestions above. About your draw weight, 225 lbs is a bit much for cedar shafting. I'm afraidcedarsaren't heavy enough, either in spine or weight. I'd definitely suggest a change. You can try going to the hardware store and using 3/8" hardwood doweling - usually made from an Asian hardwood called ramin - or you can contact a specialty shaft maker who deals in heavier woods. One Ican mentionof right off the top of my headis www.arrowwoods.com Some woods that I'd suggest would be ash, Douglas fir, chundoo, hickory or a laminated shaft made of birch or maple. I'd also ask for the stiffest spine they have available. |
RE: arrow
hi this is the arrow the broad head is not attached abt its heavy in the broad head side
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