cherokee_outfitters

To all the people who have had a somewhat professional education on bows may find this question a little simple. I'm a self taught bowhunter and just recently it was brought to my attention that I was shooting a bow that's draw length was way to long. Okay so I learned how to shoot that particular bow wrong or right I could shoot it.

My question is how to find your correct draw length? Drawing a measured out arrow on the bow won't help me because my anchor point has been developed to draw a longer draw length. I would need a system to find out without drawing the bow.

I have tried the yard stick in the center of the chest. I'm currently drawing at 30" length but with this method its saying 26" I'm thinking that's not possible. I could see 29" or 28" but the other is too short. I've tried that on my bow and its not comfortable at all.

Thanks for the advice.

BobCo19-65

This may help.

http://www.bowhunting.com/BowhuntingBasics.asp?page=3

FWIW, you will probably have to change your anchor point anyway, as this was probably part of your problem.

ELKINMTCWB

It is all about what works for you. I make an L on my cheek bone. the kisser butten is right in the corner of my mouth.

Flintflinger

I just measured my wing span and it is 75". I shoot a draw length of 30" with a release and a string loop. My question is should I shorten my length to 29 1/2"? I am pretty comfortable where I am at. I am getting tight groups at 20 and 30 yards. But I am getting a new bow in the next couple of weeks and I want to do it right and try to improve my grouping.

So what would be your suggestion?

BobCo19-65

Flint, it's tough to say. There are other factors that can through these types of tests off somewhat. Besides what feels right or comfortable to you. I would say to have an "expert" look at your form, maybe at a proshop. Or take a picture, post it here and let some people on the forum critique you. People can go years with the wrong draw length because it feels right to them. Then problem physical factors can set in, especially if you are shooting too much draw legth.

ELKINMTCWB

I am by no means a bow tec. I just say if you shoot good and you have been shooting a long time you should not change for some one on the net. I know for me if you want better groups look at your bow and items.Tighter groups come from smaller peep[not good for hunting] and smaller sights.

I shoot 30 in draw. With a little peep I shoot very good groups at 40 yards if I use my hunting peep my group gets bigger.

I can tell you if you are going to change NOW is the time targets never get away :}

Flintflinger

I dont know that I am drawing to much. I was drawing 60# and it was easy. I bumped to 67# and it is comfortable. I dont noticce any aches or pains, just fatigue after shooting a hundred or so. I know there is a lot that plays into it. I just wantto be as good as I can be with the right set up.

I have never had anyone show me the correct form. I just picked up a bow and started shooting. I am still fairly new to bow hunting. This was my first year, but I have had my bow for about 5 years. So I am still learning.

BobCo19-65

Sorry, maybe I was a little vague, I mean longer term, much, much, longer. And I know where you are coming from, I've also been there as most others have. Doubting there setup to some extent, heck I still do at times. You may want to pick up a few technique books. Kirk Etheridge is an author that I would suggest, also Larry Wise.

Flintflinger

I figured that is what you meant.

Thanks for the info on the authors, I will look for them.

ButchA

When I got into bows, I did two different styles of finding out my draw length.

1) I did the "wingspan" method and my wife measured my arms out straight and it came up 75", which equates to a 30" draw.

2) I double checked that figure with help from a bow shop. The guy had me draw a long bow that had a wooden dowel permanently attached to the string. There were 1/2" markers all the way down the dowel too. At full draw, the marking point that he measure, also came to 30".

Butch A.