So the bare shaft will hit lower than the fletched arrows. Does it matter where the fletched arrows hit?

Download this tuning guide from Easton it has paper and bare shaft tuning info in it.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloa...ning_guide.zip

I agree with ol hunter except for one thing. When your set up is not tuned properly you lose speed and, depending on yardage to your target, penetration. If your arrow is porpoising, (up and down) or fishtailing, (side to side) your speed and penetration will suffer substantially. Say your at 20 yards and you have a porpoising problem. If you nock end is on the upward travel when it impacts the target, approximately 45% of your kinetic energy is directed to the nock end. Walla, poor penetration. On longer shots the arrow has time to correct with the fletching stabilizing the shot. Did you ever hear one of your buddies say: I was only a 15 yard shot but it didn't pass through the deer" This is why! If you have the time, do it right and you'll not only have a tuned setup, but your confidence with be as tuned as your bow.
Be Safe Where a harness.

I downloaded the tuning guide but I need that acrobat reader thing.

When I get some money I will get some arrows and I am going to do this tuning right!


Trapper_Hunter

Trapper Hunter,

If you are shooting aluminum arrows, the quickest way to trash them is do the bare shaft test unless the target butt is acceptable and the tune is close to being good. You don't have to have BH and FP to fly the same to be deadly. It makes for great conversation, but not needed. If your arrow does not hold up to the draw length and poundage, it will not fly the same. But the BH's may group very well. Just adjust the sights to match the group.

And dont forget to resharpen those broadheads before you go hunting if you're shooting targets with it. I guess you may be shooting those practice blades but just a reminder. Stick with it, you'll get it shooting right.

i've never really had a problem from going to the practice blades to the broadheads. they seem to shoot pretty much alike. the only time i use field points is when paper tuning after some major set up change. my target does blow out after several hundred shots, but it's a type of foam that i get from work, and can replace anytime for nothing.

When the pro-shop was setting up my bow they used a measuring tool to line up the arrow rest alignment and the nocking point. Well i sighted in my field points they were flying really good. Then i put on my muzzy's and they were hitting about 4 inches left out to about 30 yards. So i moved my sight to the left and got them hitting dead on, and my field tips are still hitting dead on to. Lol. Do you think i should paper tune my bow or since my field tips and broad heads are hitting the same place just hunt with it the way it is?

I shoot 4-blade muzzy's 125s, and they seem to be shooting just like my field points.

http://www.broadheadtests.com/TUNING.html