Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

Hey guys and gals,
Now that I have my bow, I guess I'll need to get some arrows. With about two months until bow season, I'm getting anxious to get out and shoot. I already know that carbon arrows seem to be the arrow type of choice, but given my bow's specs, what should I look for in an arrow?
My bow is a Mathews Legacy with a 28" draw. The poundage is set around 63 lbs right now but by hunting season I expect to crank it down to 68 or 70 lbs. I have already almost broken the bank with the purchase of the bow itself, so could anybody recommend some affordable and reliable arrows?
Please be detailed, otherwise it'll just go right over my head! :eek::D

Any info you could give regarding broadheads (brand, size, etc.) would be appreciated too. Thanks.

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

So let me get this straight....

Does this mean if someone answers it.... He's Mr. Ignorant?

That's what I thought[&:]... I ain't answering.

Now if you had a question for Mr. Smartass.... I'd bet you'd get lots of answers.[8D]

OK... OK I'll give you an answer. First off, unless you can handle the extra poundage VERY comfortably.... why crank it up to a higher poundage to hunt. Most people prefer to crank it down a couple pounds if anything to allow for stiff muscles from hours on stand and cold weather.

BUT... should you want to look for new arrows... going from 63 to 67 or 68 could be just enough to throw you into a different arrow completely. A broadhead on the end is not the same as a field point. Add the extra poundage and it just may throw your setup off.

I shoot ICS hunters with a heavy(125 fixed blade) According to MOST charts I should be fine with one arrow.... but when it came to broadheads I needed the next stiffer. Stiffer is better than to weak. If you shoot a lesser head, say 100, I'd probably be alright. When you get into and extra few pounds and a broadhead it "CAN" get iffy but not necessarily so. Here's a link that you can use to find the "RECOMMENDED"(it's a guide not and absolute) arrow for your set up. Just plug in your values and you'll see. You can play with different combinations etc and see if it changes. Even plugging in a couple more pounds than you expect to shoot could be advantagious to see if you're on the fence. Mark it as a favorite and use it. All kinds of good things in there.

I'm not an arrow shopper so really can't tell you the best buys. I've always errored toward the positive with XX78s and ICS Hunters. I know there are cheaper.... but to me a few dollars extra for a better quality arrow is money well spent. Why would I pay $650 dollars for a bow and then skimp on the business end of the setup?

http://home.att.net/~sajackson/eastonchart.html

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

Thanks very much for the info, David. BTW, my post was actually entitled:
Another question FROM Mr. Ignorant (not FOR Mr. Ignorant)!

:D;)

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

I like the Goldtip 5575 you can pick them up on ebay very reasonably $40 a dozen range.

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

I wouldnt buy anything from Ebay..get set up at a pro shop..Carbon Express is the best carbon arrow on the market right now. try the CX line. If you must have american made, goldtip or beman should work for you. my recommendation is Carbon Express CX-200's. $120 a dozen, but its well worth it.

slayer

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

I'm going to have to start wearing my glasses while on the puter.[&:][&:]

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

I shoot the Mathew's FX at a 28" draw. I have shot the 2213 Ultra Lite XX-75 arrows since I bought my first Compound Bow a Martin Lynx Magnum. They do just fine up to 70 pounds but for hunting I prefer from 60 to 65 pounds.

And since I am retired, the XX-75, in 2213 don't break my bank . . . an easy thing to do these days.

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

You probably spent a grand setting up your bow and now you want to shoot cheap arrows? Makes no sence at all. Spend $100 or $120 and buy the best arrows $$$$ can buy.

I'd suggest Goldtip pro shafts. They'll cost you the better part of a c-note but you and your bow deserve it. So do the nice people of Utah. There made in the USA.

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

You can get 1/2 a dozen good arrows for $50 or less. I would go that route. Shoot them, if they fly great and you think you need more, go buy more.


Contrary to what many bowhunters on this board think, you don't need 3 dozen arrows on hand at all times.

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

I shoot Easton arrows. All price ranges for carbon. I have shot lightspeeds, and now have some C2's

As for specifics sounds like you are giong to need 400gr carbons, thats what I shoot with a 100 grain tip.

Jim

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

Jimbohunter1,Do yourself a favor and don't go cheap on the arrows.I've been there and done that,it will just cost you more in the long run.I shoot an LX,30in.draw@63lbs,and my arrows are cut @28.5-so my set-up is close to yours.This year I tried to go with the Axis-400's,and they seem to preform OK,but I have issues with the straightness.I also gave the Gold-Tip Pro-Hunters(5575's),very nice arrows,but they would only weight out to 379grs and I want to shoot 413-418grs.
Well,after all that,I'm going with what I wanted in the first place-ACC-3-60's.These are some great arrows,[email protected],100gr.tip,and 4in.Duravanes,they weigh in at 415grs.No straightness or spine questions with the ACC's,and they group great.
By the way,I buy bare shafts and set my own arrows up.A couple of my hunting buddies shoot the same draw as I,so I just sell them the ones that don't make it in my quiver!Good Luck...Bob

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

Stay far away from the Ebay arrows. What guys are doing is buying 5-6 dozen at a time, checking their weight, spine and consistency, pulling out the best to make up a good, matched set for themselves and selling their culls. Technically, the arrows are still brand new, but they've been picked over. What you're actually buying is the crappy shafts that are someone else's rejects.

I'd second Double Creek's recommendation.

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

I was thinking along the same lines, Double Creek. $50 or $60 seems a lot more reasonable than $120. And what would I do with all those arrows? Six of them should last me a year or two and if I don't like them, I can just try some different ones.

Easy, greasy. :D Did you get up on the wrong side of the bed this morning Adams? BTW, for the record, I spent half "a grand" on my bow. ;)

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

I respectfully disagree, My wife has 100+ pairs of shoes, I have only a couple extra dozen sets of arrows. It's just not fair:D IMHO You can't have enough arrows.

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

jim, do not listen to them about ebay, you can get brand new shafts still in the box the same shafts or arrows that you can buy from a shop, all you need to do is go to a shop and get them cut on a HIGH speed cutter ( 8000RPM not a dremel) and the inserts installed, but think about us bread and butter shops out their we are here to help and we need to feed out families. gold tip are great arrows so are pse and carbon express actually they are all good but do you need .001 straightness NO .006 is good enough for whitetail and shots under 70 yards heheheh..so do not spent 120$ a dozen unless you are getting 2 dozen with feathers, unless you want to, as for vanes or feathers depends on what you want then to look like . I shot vanes up intill 2 years ago and now I shoot 5 inch feathers, I just wanted a better FOC and less weight out back, feather are forgiving and I think they last longer but you have to treat them kinder, and waterproof them if you hunt in the rain (which I dont) hope this helps...

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

You can take the arrows out of the package, check them out, keep out the good ones and replace them with the bad ones from another package, seal 'em up and, since they are unused, you can sell them as new. There was quite an enlightening thread on that subject last summer. One that certainly lowered my opinion of quite a few people on this forum. According to the number of people that said they are doing that, the practice certainly appears to be widespread.

The simple fact is, you have no way of knowing whether you're getting shafts as packaged at the factory or if they've been repackaged by someone who's selling you their culls.

Buyer beware!

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

Art P:

I clearly recall the thread. It got a little hot. What was hard to swallow was that those that were doing it also recommended that others do it, and the perps just could not see the deception and wrong involved; or they did/do and their character is also inferior.

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

Authur P ! thank's for that little tip ,although I haven't bought arrow's off of e-bay I have bought lot's of other gear for my bow and had been considering buying arrow's .Thank's again

I have used P.S.E.'s Carbon "Force arrow's and thought for the money that they were among the cheapest arrows to buy ,they also weren't bad shooters .

nubo

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

I think for your setup especially if you crank it up, you'll need to go to to the 7595's on the goldtips to spine right. And it'll only add 20 grains or so.

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

Wow! I must have missed that thread. Fortunately, I buy all mine from a local bow shop that I trust. I just can't imagine doing that, and then posting on a public forum that you did. :eek:

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

My bed is situated so I can only get out on the wrong side:eek:. The get up on the right side I'd have to climb over my pregnant wife[:-], it's just not worht the hassle;)

I just hate to see someone buy a top of the line bow and then skimp on arrows. It dosen't matter how well set up a bow is if you shooting bad arrows that aren't straight, that's all. Sorry if I typed a little Loud.

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

You don't have to buy the top brand of any arrow.(gold tip pro etc) You will not see a difference of an arrow that is .006 starightness and one that is .001 straightness. I you don't plan on shooting a dot competition out to 50 yrds, the arrows with a .006 straightness are the way to go. You will never notice a difference

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

before I decided to go into the archery business i bought lots of shafts off ebay, after I cut them and spun them with the tips installed most were perfect. i now get shafts from the source and out of a dozen most of the time only two were not perfect to shoot at a live amimal but were good the shoot at a target. as for the spine most people do not even paper tune them to see if they are even good for their bow setup, I paper tune all the time because things change all time, heat ,cold, string stretch, weight, lot of things can effect the spline, just find a good brand and experiment, I went thru 5 different brands before settled on 1 that worked for me

RE: Another question from Mr. Ignorant
 

I've read and re-read this post several times and everybody's opinions and replies are valued... It's nice to have so many different perspectives. Thanks.

You can get up on the other side of the bed if you really put your mind to it Adams, but you may not have a place to sleep the next time you try crawling back INTO bed. lol