I've bowfished for years using a 40-45# recurve and releasing with my fingers.
It wasn't until the last few years when I started shooting fish with the compound that I use for deer that I had problems.

I like using my compound for fish because of the extra power and hold time, but I've got a left tear that will cut the paper in two! This is especially bad for bowfishing since the ranges are so short that the arrow does not have any time to recover and when it hits the water while it's pointing to the right, it just changes direction and I'll hit somewhere to the right of where I was aiming. The deeper the fish is, the worse it is. Until I find a fix, I'll just be taking surface shots and compensating for the different point of impact. That's easy, but I want a real solution.

Does anybody know any tricks on how to get fish arrows to perform differently?
Are they all the same spine? Could I play with the arrow length to get what I want?

Get a different arrow. Most of the fiberglass arrows are not made for modern compound bows. I don't remember but I don't think you are supposed to shoot them out of anything over 50 lbs. Very dangerous if the arrow explodes on release. Check out the muzzy website, they make all sorts of bowfishing accessories and should have an arrow to match your bow.

My buddy had a hoyt at work the other night and we threw on a wheel of fortune rest (muzzy) and had no problems. I just centered the rest and moved the nock a bit and it shot fine. We were shooting it at 74#'s to start with. Then backed it down to 65#'s It flew fine.

Not sure about the poundage limit though. I might have to look into that.

Never tuned one....got a recurve just for bowfishing, I like the simplicity of it.
I would be scared that I would hurt my baby if I took it bowfishing!!!!

Thanks guys.
I wasn't sure I would get any advice at all on this.


MEZ:
The compound I want to use is set at about 50# right now, but I may want to go higher, so I'll see what Muzzy has.
I am still hoping to be able to use the arrows I already have, but I'll do what I have to.

TECHY:
I tried the Wheel Of Fortune too, but had no luck since I shoot with fingers. The arrow can't flex sideways (like it has too when you shoot fingers) without coming up out of the roller's groove. It made for some humorous flight paths though. [:-]

CARPMASTER:
If I can't make it work, I may just go back to a recurve. The problem is that the one I used to use is actually my Dad's. I'm trying to make use of my back up deer bow and not have to buy another bow. (Yes, I'm married, and I can't just go buy what I want anymore).

As you can see, I'm doing just fine the way I am.
This was a 15 pounder I got last year. He was about 6 feet deep.

Of all the bowfishing I have done, I never once considered trying to tune the arrow or matching draw-weight to the spine of a fishing shaft. I do remove the rubber fletching to eliminate steerage (rudder).

Considering that the arrow is in the water, or partially in the water, within a few feet, it has always been my thinking that trying to obtain good arrow flight and hunting or target accuracy with a long and heavy fiberglass fishing shaft would be a practice in futility.

I shoot off a 45# and 48# recurve and a PSE "Pacer" compound set at 50#, and have good results.

Curiosity aroused! I got out my homemade spine meter. It's worthless for getting actual AMO deflection but good for comparing one arrow to another.

My solid glass fishing arrow has .255" deflection. Compared to a 2315 that shows .295 deflection (I think Easton lists AMO deflection for 2315's at .340", so my weight is obviously a little light). A GoldTip 7595 checks .305". Anyway, that glass arrow is pretty darn stiff! It's not going to tune like a normal arrow.

Besides, it's drag from the line peeling off the reel that stabilizes the arrow. Without the line tied to the arrow, any tuning you do will be fruitless.

C309:
I wouldn't bother to try to improve things if the flight wasn't so bad.
I take the fletch off of mine too for the same reason. It does minimize any errors, but when the arrow hits the water (a thicker media than air) it does still "steer" the arrow along the path it is currently pointed...which in my case is to the right, instead of letting it continue its oscillation and eventually stabilize. --maybe I just need to take longer shots, like 50 yards.

AURTHUR: (I figured you get on here eventually )
Thanks for the data. I don't have a way to measure it myself.
How long was the arrow you measured the spine on?

The line attatched does make a huge difference. It occurred to me to investigate how the drag affected the flight last night after I made my original post.
I tried making several adjustments with no line with only dismal results. Once I got the line attached, it got better, but still not great. It shoots predictably, but always angled to the right.

If I shortened the arrow (I could take several inches off) that would only make it stiffer, wouldn't it? ...making my problem worse.

Dang... Now I gotta go find a tape measure... [] Hang on, I'll report back.

The arrow is 32" to back of point. The supports on my spine tester are 26" between centers. That might be why the 2315's check stiff. I think Easton uses 28" between centers for aluminum and carbon arrows.