Newbie - frustrated from that start
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Hey guys,
I am newly interested in the sport (although I did some target shooting with a recurve as a kid) and I am trying to find a bow and setup that is not going to cost me an arm and a leg (I don't want to invest a lot of $$$ in something I'm not sure I'll pursue). Yet, I want a bow that will last me as I become more experienced and will not need to replaced after a year or two. I am interested in hunting but I also want to get involved in target and 3D leagues.
I went to my local archery pro shops and found out that I have a 31.5'' draw, which, in addition to my price range (around $400), really narrows down my selection. In the end, I was only able to shoot the 2004 Hoyt Ultramag and Ultrasport. They seemed nice, but I have nothing to compare too. They said they would have to special order, and this is not only more expensive but I would not be able to test the bow before buying.
Then I hit the web and researched the hell out of compound bows. I was only able to narrow down the accessories (scope, rest, etc.) I think I'll want, but I still don't know about the bow.
Now, I think the best thing to do is buy someones used bow that they want to sell and is older than the Ultramag/Ultrasport models but maybe a higher end bow for a cheaper price. So, I've been browsing Ebay and the like, and I've found 2003 and 2002 Hoyt models as well as other brands. The selection of bows that adjust to 31+ draws is small, but I still don't know if those are good bows or if their specs are valid (see P.S. below).
To make a long story short
I would like to ask your opinion as to which bows you would recommend (keeping in mind I'll buy an older bow, that my budget for the bow itself is around $400, and that my draw length is 31.5'').
P.S. I've noticed that the draw lengths specified for many of the same model bows differ, and that the pro shop owners were able to set the draw beyond the specified range. Any comments?
I am newly interested in the sport (although I did some target shooting with a recurve as a kid) and I am trying to find a bow and setup that is not going to cost me an arm and a leg (I don't want to invest a lot of $$$ in something I'm not sure I'll pursue). Yet, I want a bow that will last me as I become more experienced and will not need to replaced after a year or two. I am interested in hunting but I also want to get involved in target and 3D leagues.
I went to my local archery pro shops and found out that I have a 31.5'' draw, which, in addition to my price range (around $400), really narrows down my selection. In the end, I was only able to shoot the 2004 Hoyt Ultramag and Ultrasport. They seemed nice, but I have nothing to compare too. They said they would have to special order, and this is not only more expensive but I would not be able to test the bow before buying.
Then I hit the web and researched the hell out of compound bows. I was only able to narrow down the accessories (scope, rest, etc.) I think I'll want, but I still don't know about the bow.
Now, I think the best thing to do is buy someones used bow that they want to sell and is older than the Ultramag/Ultrasport models but maybe a higher end bow for a cheaper price. So, I've been browsing Ebay and the like, and I've found 2003 and 2002 Hoyt models as well as other brands. The selection of bows that adjust to 31+ draws is small, but I still don't know if those are good bows or if their specs are valid (see P.S. below).
To make a long story short
I would like to ask your opinion as to which bows you would recommend (keeping in mind I'll buy an older bow, that my budget for the bow itself is around $400, and that my draw length is 31.5''). P.S. I've noticed that the draw lengths specified for many of the same model bows differ, and that the pro shop owners were able to set the draw beyond the specified range. Any comments?
#2
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Grants pass,Oregon
I have a 32" draw length from what the pro shop told me. The first bow I hunted with was a old golden eagle that I got from my boss. Dont know the specs of it. The second bow I got from GI Joes for like $150 a jennings quadforce (really liked that bow just a little slow) third bow is an alpine that I won at the pro shop. I have a forth but havnt shot it yet. Anyhow my point it I never paid alot of attention to the length and such. I use a release and I think that makes the differance. I have always taken the bow to the shop and have them set it to the longest setting. Which all of the bows that I have had have three settings for length. And they all have done well, I even took second in a local 3D shoot that we had. But if you are going to shoot with fingers then I could see it being a bit of a problem.
This is just my two cents and what has worked for me. I am sure others will tell you that you have got to have it just perfect but life just aint that way. But dont get frusterated about it yet at least wait until you think your bow is shooting like crap and come to find out 99.9% of the time its you. lol
This is just my two cents and what has worked for me. I am sure others will tell you that you have got to have it just perfect but life just aint that way. But dont get frusterated about it yet at least wait until you think your bow is shooting like crap and come to find out 99.9% of the time its you. lol
#3
Giant Nontypical
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
Likes: 0
I suggest going to another shop because those bozo's are out to gouge you. I've got a 33 1/2" draw and have never had to pay extra for a special order bow. Of course, I've never been able to buy a compound off the rack after being able to shoot it, and I've wound up with some real stinkers as a result. But talk about a narrow selection! 
Any pro shop worthy of the name will have at least a few bows in 31" draw on hand. Slap a 1/2" string loop on it, adjust length of pull on the release and there you go. There is also some adjustment of string and cable lengths that can easily change draw length by a half inch. No sweat.
I hate to start recommending bows, because invariably you leave out somebody's favorite. I reckon they can chime in and fill in the gaps though. You can't go wrong with any of the more popular name brands like Hoyt, Mathews and BowTech. Some of Martin's offerings I don't care for but their Scepter and Cougar elite models are nice.
Good luck! But, unfortunately, I must inform you that you do not qualify to join the Ape Arm Knuckle Draggers Association. Pinky might though...

Any pro shop worthy of the name will have at least a few bows in 31" draw on hand. Slap a 1/2" string loop on it, adjust length of pull on the release and there you go. There is also some adjustment of string and cable lengths that can easily change draw length by a half inch. No sweat.
I hate to start recommending bows, because invariably you leave out somebody's favorite. I reckon they can chime in and fill in the gaps though. You can't go wrong with any of the more popular name brands like Hoyt, Mathews and BowTech. Some of Martin's offerings I don't care for but their Scepter and Cougar elite models are nice.
Good luck! But, unfortunately, I must inform you that you do not qualify to join the Ape Arm Knuckle Draggers Association. Pinky might though...
#4
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,643
Likes: 0
From: ......
TooTallJones - try www.archerytalk.com and the classifieds there - HUGE number of bows and right now is the time to buy.
I'd never buy a new compound again. Heck I have only bought 2 new longbows. I can pay 50-60% less or more for bascially brand new bows getting them second hand. I like that.
The benefit of buying a used bow, a few tools and doing all the tuning yourself is that you become to KNOW your bow and you won't have to rely on anyone else to work on it. Frustrating at first but in the long run you'll be MUCH better for it.
Good luck
I'd never buy a new compound again. Heck I have only bought 2 new longbows. I can pay 50-60% less or more for bascially brand new bows getting them second hand. I like that.
The benefit of buying a used bow, a few tools and doing all the tuning yourself is that you become to KNOW your bow and you won't have to rely on anyone else to work on it. Frustrating at first but in the long run you'll be MUCH better for it.
Good luck
#5
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
From:
I'd 2nd. stealthy's advice. You can get some great deals on used bows just after the season. Same as golf clubs. User decides it's the equipments fault he missed his shot when in actuality it is good ol' operator error.
#6
Fork Horn
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 423
Likes: 0
From: Texarkana AR USA
If your draw length is in fact 31 1/2, you can get away with a 31 and use a string loop for your release. That should put you about right.
Having said that, Mathews sells the FX model for $399.........it goes to a 31 inch draw.
Might be something to thing about.
Having said that, Mathews sells the FX model for $399.........it goes to a 31 inch draw.
Might be something to thing about.
#9
I'm not, by any means, trying to get you to buy a cheap bow, but the words of a professional archer, "I know people that will buy the expensive bows and shoot horribly. It isn't the bow but the archer. He can do just as good with a cheaper bow. People think the more expensive the bow, the better it is. This may be true, to someone, but most likely not you." You can get whatever bow you want but when I pick out a bow, I look for the bow that fits me and I don't worry about the price. If the bow that fits me is $250, I will get it. If the bow that fits me is $2,500, Well... Mabey I do worry about the price.
#10
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
To start, I just wanted to say thanks for all the replies. Now, I went to another pro tonight and shoot a high end Mathews (can't remember which model) at 30'' draw and a Hoyt Ultratec at 30.5'' (BTW, I shot these bows with the idea that I might be able to find an earlier year version for sell somewhere for cheaper). Anyway, we came to the conclusion that I have a 31'' draw. I will, however, be using a loop and release, but doesn't that just add to a lengthened notch position and doesn't effect the placement of the string to the corner of the mouth? If I can work to modify my DL, I might pursue that Ultratec (it was nice). If not, which bow should I look for in the classifieds and Ebay? I'll be looking for a 2003/2002 single cam, 31'' DL, 7+'' brace height, 36+'' bow length, 60-70# hunting bow.


