Tuning for broadhead?
 

I'm new to bow hunting and have heard the term "tuning your bow for " I just got ym new bow, the PSE Brute X and currently am sighting it in. But I plan on using broadheads this season. So can someone help me out! Thanks.

Tuning your bow is making adjustments to your nocking point and arrow rest to make sure arrows are leaving the bow straight. Paper tuning is the best way to do this. Some pro shops have a paper tuning rack or you can make one out of wood or cut the bottom out of a cardboard box. Basically you want something you can stretch paper over tight but shoot through the middle without the arrow hitting anything but paper. You will see where the point hits and unless you are lucky the fletched end will make a tear either left, right, up or down. Tail high- lower nock point, tail low- raise nock point, tail left- move rest out from bow, tail right- move rest towards the bow. This is for right hand shooters and make small adjustment until you get a small hole with 3 fletching slices in the paper.

thank you! This helped a lot!!

Once you are paper tuned...make sure you have a broad head target and a few broad heads like you will be using during hunting and sight your bow/arrow to the target with them. Some broad heads like muzzy have practice target blades. Use them instead of your sharp blades.

Actually I would walk back tune rather than paper tune. gives a much better reading on what your bow doing. Put a piece of tape on your target straight down.
Start at 20 yds and shoot a group. then using your 20 yd pin shoot another group from 30 yds .Do the same thing at 40 yds still using your 20 yd pin. your groups should be in straight line down. If they are are either left or right of line move your rest to that direction so they do hit on tape. Gives a much better reading of center shot.

This is worth posting... with a compound, I think you should paper tune and walk back, some do more.

http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tech...walk-back.html

100% agreed!!! I do both and they each show traits the other has failed to. The walk back is a great technique for torque on the longer shots that paper tuning will not show.

I've never liked paper tuning. It takes too long and is in my book, unreliable. I made my own set up out of tools in my shop. I use the bow square for my nock height and then 2 construction levels braced on both sides of my bow frame. I then take my digital Vermeer caliper to make sure my arrow is resting right down the center. It sounds like a lot but it's the quickest way I found to true everything up.

For sighting in here is a nice trick. I no longer use multiple pins. I went to a red dot scope. If I ever went back to pins, it still would be a single pin and adjust your shot like you would any gun, aim a little higher on a longer shot. It will simplify your life.


To sight it in, stand 10' away from your target with the bullseye directly horizontal to your arrow flight. Adjust the pin to shoot dead on. That in my experience is a dead on pin setting at around 22 to 25 yards out.