Bow sights?
03-15-2013 | 09:30 AM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
I like to have as much visibility in my sight window as possible, so I shoot either single pin or vertical pin sights.
I have two Trophy Ridge Alpha V5's (added tru-glo sight-lights) that I'm very happy with for the money. They are only two axis, so if you're looking for a competition grade sight, this may not be it. Then again, if you're looking for a competition sight, you'd be spending more than $80 on your sight also. Very bright, and the glow in the dark ring lasts for a long time after dark. I honestly don't need my pin-light for deer hunting, because the fiber optic collectors do a great job even in low light, but I call coyotes at night, so that's what the pinlight is for. With a really fast bow, if you're only shooting 30-40yrds, you likely won't need all 5 pins, (TR makes a Firewire V3 that's cheaper), but I have mine set up at 30, 40, 50, 60, and 70yrds on my Destroyer. 20, 30, 40, 45, and 50 on my wife's Mathews.
I also have an HHA OL-5019 that I'm very very happy with, if you're interested in slider type single pin sights, and looking to spend a little more ($110 these days). Very bright, zero clutter, click-adjustable windage, very simple adjustment for range. Great sight for 3D shooting. Single pin sights DO require a little practice. You need to be able to adjust your sight quickly and accurately, then if you end up drawing and have one walk closer or farther, you need to know how high or low you need to hold the pin (pretty similar for knowing how you should hold between your 30 and 40yrd pins if a buck is at 35yrds). I don't use the supplied stickers. I put the elevation slide all the way down, then sight the elevation adjustment so the slide will be bottomed out at my MPBR (max point blank range), basically where I need to start accounting for drop, then raise the slide as I walk back and make marks for the new ranges. I use blaze orange duct tape with black magic marker. Looking for some glow in the dark tape, but the blaze is pretty easy to see any time it's bright enough to identify game.
I have two Trophy Ridge Alpha V5's (added tru-glo sight-lights) that I'm very happy with for the money. They are only two axis, so if you're looking for a competition grade sight, this may not be it. Then again, if you're looking for a competition sight, you'd be spending more than $80 on your sight also. Very bright, and the glow in the dark ring lasts for a long time after dark. I honestly don't need my pin-light for deer hunting, because the fiber optic collectors do a great job even in low light, but I call coyotes at night, so that's what the pinlight is for. With a really fast bow, if you're only shooting 30-40yrds, you likely won't need all 5 pins, (TR makes a Firewire V3 that's cheaper), but I have mine set up at 30, 40, 50, 60, and 70yrds on my Destroyer. 20, 30, 40, 45, and 50 on my wife's Mathews.
I also have an HHA OL-5019 that I'm very very happy with, if you're interested in slider type single pin sights, and looking to spend a little more ($110 these days). Very bright, zero clutter, click-adjustable windage, very simple adjustment for range. Great sight for 3D shooting. Single pin sights DO require a little practice. You need to be able to adjust your sight quickly and accurately, then if you end up drawing and have one walk closer or farther, you need to know how high or low you need to hold the pin (pretty similar for knowing how you should hold between your 30 and 40yrd pins if a buck is at 35yrds). I don't use the supplied stickers. I put the elevation slide all the way down, then sight the elevation adjustment so the slide will be bottomed out at my MPBR (max point blank range), basically where I need to start accounting for drop, then raise the slide as I walk back and make marks for the new ranges. I use blaze orange duct tape with black magic marker. Looking for some glow in the dark tape, but the blaze is pretty easy to see any time it's bright enough to identify game.
Last edited by Nomercy448; 03-15-2013 at 09:48 AM.
04-07-2013 | 05:58 AM
#9
Fork Horn
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Sw Michigan
I like to have as much visibility in my sight window as possible, so I shoot either single pin or vertical pin sights.
I have two Trophy Ridge Alpha V5's (added tru-glo sight-lights) that I'm very happy with for the money. They are only two axis, so if you're looking for a competition grade sight, this may not be it. Then again, if you're looking for a competition sight, you'd be spending more than $80 on your sight also. Very bright, and the glow in the dark ring lasts for a long time after dark. I honestly don't need my pin-light for deer hunting, because the fiber optic collectors do a great job even in low light, but I call coyotes at night, so that's what the pinlight is for. With a really fast bow, if you're only shooting 30-40yrds, you likely won't need all 5 pins, (TR makes a Firewire V3 that's cheaper), but I have mine set up at 30, 40, 50, 60, and 70yrds on my Destroyer. 20, 30, 40, 45, and 50 on my wife's Mathews.
I also have an HHA OL-5019 that I'm very very happy with, if you're interested in slider type single pin sights, and looking to spend a little more ($110 these days). Very bright, zero clutter, click-adjustable windage, very simple adjustment for range. Great sight for 3D shooting. Single pin sights DO require a little practice. You need to be able to adjust your sight quickly and accurately, then if you end up drawing and have one walk closer or farther, you need to know how high or low you need to hold the pin (pretty similar for knowing how you should hold between your 30 and 40yrd pins if a buck is at 35yrds). I don't use the supplied stickers. I put the elevation slide all the way down, then sight the elevation adjustment so the slide will be bottomed out at my MPBR (max point blank range), basically where I need to start accounting for drop, then raise the slide as I walk back and make marks for the new ranges. I use blaze orange duct tape with black magic marker. Looking for some glow in the dark tape, but the blaze is pretty easy to see any time it's bright enough to identify game.
I have two Trophy Ridge Alpha V5's (added tru-glo sight-lights) that I'm very happy with for the money. They are only two axis, so if you're looking for a competition grade sight, this may not be it. Then again, if you're looking for a competition sight, you'd be spending more than $80 on your sight also. Very bright, and the glow in the dark ring lasts for a long time after dark. I honestly don't need my pin-light for deer hunting, because the fiber optic collectors do a great job even in low light, but I call coyotes at night, so that's what the pinlight is for. With a really fast bow, if you're only shooting 30-40yrds, you likely won't need all 5 pins, (TR makes a Firewire V3 that's cheaper), but I have mine set up at 30, 40, 50, 60, and 70yrds on my Destroyer. 20, 30, 40, 45, and 50 on my wife's Mathews.
I also have an HHA OL-5019 that I'm very very happy with, if you're interested in slider type single pin sights, and looking to spend a little more ($110 these days). Very bright, zero clutter, click-adjustable windage, very simple adjustment for range. Great sight for 3D shooting. Single pin sights DO require a little practice. You need to be able to adjust your sight quickly and accurately, then if you end up drawing and have one walk closer or farther, you need to know how high or low you need to hold the pin (pretty similar for knowing how you should hold between your 30 and 40yrd pins if a buck is at 35yrds). I don't use the supplied stickers. I put the elevation slide all the way down, then sight the elevation adjustment so the slide will be bottomed out at my MPBR (max point blank range), basically where I need to start accounting for drop, then raise the slide as I walk back and make marks for the new ranges. I use blaze orange duct tape with black magic marker. Looking for some glow in the dark tape, but the blaze is pretty easy to see any time it's bright enough to identify game.
