amayumi

dear sirs

after read a lot, i finally choose the Cabela's Stalker Extreme as my first Carbon Arrows.

everyone said that its a good arrow with a fair price.
so i m moving from my aluminum and fiberglass arrows to stalker ones.

but there is some situations and i need more info

1) i see that there exist two kinds of Cabela's Stalker Extreme Carbon Arrows

the Cabela's Stalker Extreme Carbon Arrows – Blazer Vanes ( Straightness factor to ± .003’’ - IK-417604 and Regular Price: $79.99 )

AND

Cabela's Stalker Extreme Carbon Arrows – Vanes (Straightness factor to ± .005’’, IK-414243 and Regular Price: $69.99)

well, my questions (a, b, c)

a) i dont know if it will be better to get the 0.005 or 0.003 model.
it is important?
or i can pick the cheaper?

b) there are two sizes of this arrow.
Sizes: 55/70 Ibs. (8.4 gpi) and 65/80 lbs. (9.3 gpi).

i shoot a 50 lbs round wheel antique bow.
my draw lenght, from nock valley to shaft front end (with no point) is 31,25 inches (a little long, i know, but it is necessary to my broadheads do not touch the lower part of bow sight).

reading this arrows shaft chart, it is said that i must use a 55/70 size, but, due my long draw lenght, i am right in the upper divisory line to the next recommeded size, the 65/80 lbs (advised to 31 inches shafts at 52lbs, 2 lbs more than my bow )

so, i am afraid to get the 55/70 size and (when put the arrow tip) find i am sub spined due my long shaft or
to get the 65/80 size and find i am over spined due my low poundage bow.

so i came with an idea:

- get the 65/80 stiffer arrow and find the correct setup just changing the field point from 85 to 125 grains point models, till i find the correct setup to this stiffer arrow.

is it a good idea or i need to stick with the 55/70 size?

c) i read some texts about this model of arrow and see that some people say that (when adjusting the shaf lenght) is a good thing not only cut the front end of shaft but the rear end too in order to get a true spin.

i did not get this.
cut both endes to get a true spin?

would you please explain it?
what it the benefit of buy a complete arrow with nock and fletch and remove the nock and fletch to cut both arrow ends and them renock and refletch?
how can this grant a better flight?

as always, thanks a lot

cheers from brasil.

nodog

Be nice to be able to pick the right arrow the first time, but that has never been my experience. Trial and error with in reason is how I've learned what's best for me and I always go for the better arrow.

After reading tyour need for a longer arrow I think you have some changes needed. The arrow should not be close to the site. I would go with the 55-70 and change your form cutting the arrow down to what it should be.

LI archer

went from easton alum to carbon express years ago.. CX never did me wrong.. with new bow got new CX arrows.. max blue streak select.. took my first deer(and a buck..mngt) last week. small window and happend so fast! as i was leading him and shot he stoped turned and droped.. cxmbss and a grim reaper 100gr got him high.. but he droped in his tracks at 15yrds. had to put one bt rib cage to finish the job.. i cleaned both arrows up and damed when i did spin test they were both smooth as silk! mind you the first arrow to hit was pure bone.. heard the crack like a baseball hitting a bat.. grim reaper bent at threads but CX once again has not let me down. you just have to find a arrow maker you like and trust.. i like CX and trust them.. wishing you great success with your new arrows..cabelas makes great products and i think CX was making the arrows for them?? used to see in cabela's details on product about "tuff buff" finish. which was/is a CX thing... good luck and kick white tail!