Can I shoot 125gr with my setup?
07-25-2012, 03:20 AM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
You ask if you will be able to do it. Of course you are able to switch heads. 15 grains of weight isn't really a drastic change.
What we can't guess at is your ability to make the switch work with your setup. Since you are asking this question, you are probably not a skilled bow tuner. With more info (arrow length), I'm sure someone can tell you what the recommended spine range is for your draw weight and point weight, but that's only a starting point. Then things like your shooting form will come into play. Arrows that work for some don't work for others with similar setups.
So give it a try and see how the bow performs.
What we can't guess at is your ability to make the switch work with your setup. Since you are asking this question, you are probably not a skilled bow tuner. With more info (arrow length), I'm sure someone can tell you what the recommended spine range is for your draw weight and point weight, but that's only a starting point. Then things like your shooting form will come into play. Arrows that work for some don't work for others with similar setups.
So give it a try and see how the bow performs.
07-25-2012, 03:31 AM
#5
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Western, NY
Posts: 144
You ask if you will be able to do it. Of course you are able to switch heads. 15 grains of weight isn't really a drastic change.
What we can't guess at is your ability to make the switch work with your setup. Since you are asking this question, you are probably not a skilled bow tuner. With more info (arrow length), I'm sure someone can tell you what the recommended spine range is for your draw weight and point weight, but that's only a starting point. Then things like your shooting form will come into play. Arrows that work for some don't work for others with similar setups.
So give it a try and see how the bow performs.
What we can't guess at is your ability to make the switch work with your setup. Since you are asking this question, you are probably not a skilled bow tuner. With more info (arrow length), I'm sure someone can tell you what the recommended spine range is for your draw weight and point weight, but that's only a starting point. Then things like your shooting form will come into play. Arrows that work for some don't work for others with similar setups.
So give it a try and see how the bow performs.
07-25-2012, 04:59 PM
#6
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Tennessee/Kentucky
Posts: 12
Thanks for the replies! Much obliged. You're right about me not being
A skilled bow tuner, I have trouble in the arrow department. Weight/spine/deflection/etc. all that stuff confuses me. I just measured my arrows and they are 31.5 inches, not including the nock. I would crank the weight up on my bow but 60lbs is the max
A skilled bow tuner, I have trouble in the arrow department. Weight/spine/deflection/etc. all that stuff confuses me. I just measured my arrows and they are 31.5 inches, not including the nock. I would crank the weight up on my bow but 60lbs is the max
07-26-2012, 11:26 AM
#8
Spike
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Naples Florida
Posts: 69
I assume your arrows are 350 spine carbon express. If my asumtion is correct and they are 350spine and you are pulling 60lb draw weight you should drop your spine down to the Carbon Express 250's as the 350's fit a higher draw weight than 60lbs. The bottom weight you should be pulling with 350's is 63-64 lbs. If the spine is to strong for your draw weight then your arrows won't flex correctly there fore giving you a little larger grouping. If you prefer CE arrows then try the 250's as they will react to your draw weight better. If you change arrow brands then you will want either a 250 spine or 400 spine in arrows such as easton. I do custom arrows.
07-26-2012, 11:32 AM
#9
Spike
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Naples Florida
Posts: 69
As far as the broad heads go you can shoot any weight you wish, just remember the heavier the total weight of your arrow the larger shooting window you will need when hunting as they will drop more, however the will have a little better KE down range.
07-26-2012, 11:49 AM
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
Assuming your bow fits your draw length, have someone mark your arrow, about 1/2" forward of your rest when you are at full draw (obviously this is best done from the side). Then measure from the mark to the throat of the nock. That's your arrow length. Then get your arrows cut to that length. No reason to be shooting a few extra inches of arrow.
Once your arrows are the correct length you can think about spine and tuning. I recommend walk-back tuning, and then broadhead tuning. There are threads on these methods in the Technical Forum, and they are relatively simple. Make rest and nockpoint adjustments according to what the arrows are telling you (not some preconceived notion of what "centershot" must be).
Good luck!
Once your arrows are the correct length you can think about spine and tuning. I recommend walk-back tuning, and then broadhead tuning. There are threads on these methods in the Technical Forum, and they are relatively simple. Make rest and nockpoint adjustments according to what the arrows are telling you (not some preconceived notion of what "centershot" must be).
Good luck!
