I have never had a problem fletching aluminums. But now I have Beamans (black). I can' t get the fletchings to stick good to save my life. They will fall off after a few 100 shots. They don' t do that from the factory. The factory setup fletchings are hard as hell to take off. I got to carefully scrape with a dull knife to cut the clue off.

I am using Bohning 4" fletchings. Using Bond tite for carbons. I first will totally take off the old glue. I then use sandpaper to roughen up. I then take the alcohol and wipe down the arrows and the fletchings. I then use a Arizona Fletch tool to put them on. Let them sit in the jig for 2 min and take out. And then let it cure overnight. What am I doing wrong?

I would change the glue you are using.

When I got into fletching my own, I was at the pro shop with handfuls of glue, cleaner, vanes, feathers, etc..... One of the older guys saw me and told me to loose the glue and cleaner. His recomendation was to use regular Windex to clean and degrease the shaft after glue removal and light sanding. As for the glue, he recomended a product called " Future Glue" . It is a super glue product and is available at Wally World and Kmart. It comes in a small bottle with a brush applicator. Sets in something like 15 seconds.

After the fletches are on, I use the brush to run a small bead down each edge and put a drop on the front.

Using this method I have yet to have a vane or feather come off except when I scrape them off with a knife.

Bigcountry,
I started using EZE Crest last year and have found that my fletchings stick much better than they do on bare shafts. Your arrows look better as well. You will need to experiment with your glues though, some of them will eat the cresting right off and the fletching will come loose. I am currently using Goat Stuff Glue which can be purchased at Cabela' s and it has worked great.

AAE Fastset Gel works great for me. It' s a typical glue in sporting goods stores, but it' s the same as any superglue gel you can buy at Wal-Mart. Sometimes vanes can have a residue from molding or storage on them....make sure to clean the vane at the glue joint.

A couple things I would do different. If your useing regular alcohol, switch to denatured. I would also leave them in the jig for 20-30 minutes. If fletching with vanes, be sure and wipe them down also.

I use Goat' s Tuff Glue and no problems, I clean the shaft an the vane with fingernail polish remover. I switch brands everyso often but always check to make sure the contents are the same. Their is some ingrediant that you do not want, but I can not remember what it is. I know I have used the Osco and Home Best. Never thought of tring Windex, but I have found what works for me and I am sticking with it. I have used this on gold tips, carbon express, and blackhawk camo with no problems.

These are the ingrediants:
acetone, water, propylene carbonate, dimethyl glutarate, dimethyl succinate, dimethyl adipate, glyserin, gelatin, fragerance, denatonium benzoate, D&C yello #11.


Good Luck

Thanks guys, I guess I will order some AA Gel and Goat Tuff Glue and give them a try.

Save yourself some money.Go to wally world and buy superglue gel.Works great.I just scrape off the old glue with a dull knife.Wipe down with alcohol,let dry and flectch.

CB

Big, if you can, purchase Prep-Rite surface conditioner by Bohning. Its for aluminum or carbon arrows. It can be bought unmixed or mixed. I have the premixed.

Just shake up the bottle, open the cap and dip your shafts. Let sit a few minutes then rinse off with hot water and let dry. This provides a clean and unspoiled surface area to glue your fletching.

For some reason the Bemans are tricky little buggers.... I went to the arrow wrap which saved me a whole bunch of trouble. Somebody else mentioned this also, but I think it makes the arrow look beter too!

Good luck.
-BJ