tuning problems...help!
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 113
tuning problems...help!
So i was having problems with my rest and fletching contact and now that is finally resolved.
so then two days ago i had the place paper tune it and the bullet hole was at the top of the vane (when you look at the hole in the paper.) so i went home and shot it and my broadheads shot about 6 inches higher than my fieldpionts at 20 yards (with muzzy 100 grain 3 blades).
so i went back and told them to move the nock up and re paper tune it. after already treating me like an idiot for wanting the nock higher than square i told them i would pay for it and i want them to try it. so they shot it and after moving the nock up another time they got the bullet hole to be about half way up the top vane. they said thats as good as its gonna get, and were getting pretty short with me so i said thanks, payed and got out of there hoping that that would do it and i would never have to go back there. then i get home and the cerving above my peep sight started to come undone and slid up (which they had put on there about a week ago). so i put one of those metal nock beads over the cerving and one above it so it couldnt slide up anymore. (anything wrong with that?)
i then tried shooting it and the way i have it sighted in now my field points are a bit low at 20 yds and my broadheads are about 4 inches high.
can anyone tell whats wrong with this picture? is my nocking point still a bit low that my arrow seems to raise like this? the only other thing that i could think is that i am getting my top vane rubbing against the top bar of my ultra rest but i really dont think that could happen...and the only other thing could be if my muzzy broadheads arent tuned right (thats what they were telling my at the archery shop), but i have rubber washers on my broadhead so that the broadhead blades are lined up with the vanes. any help is very apreciated.
so then two days ago i had the place paper tune it and the bullet hole was at the top of the vane (when you look at the hole in the paper.) so i went home and shot it and my broadheads shot about 6 inches higher than my fieldpionts at 20 yards (with muzzy 100 grain 3 blades).
so i went back and told them to move the nock up and re paper tune it. after already treating me like an idiot for wanting the nock higher than square i told them i would pay for it and i want them to try it. so they shot it and after moving the nock up another time they got the bullet hole to be about half way up the top vane. they said thats as good as its gonna get, and were getting pretty short with me so i said thanks, payed and got out of there hoping that that would do it and i would never have to go back there. then i get home and the cerving above my peep sight started to come undone and slid up (which they had put on there about a week ago). so i put one of those metal nock beads over the cerving and one above it so it couldnt slide up anymore. (anything wrong with that?)
i then tried shooting it and the way i have it sighted in now my field points are a bit low at 20 yds and my broadheads are about 4 inches high.
can anyone tell whats wrong with this picture? is my nocking point still a bit low that my arrow seems to raise like this? the only other thing that i could think is that i am getting my top vane rubbing against the top bar of my ultra rest but i really dont think that could happen...and the only other thing could be if my muzzy broadheads arent tuned right (thats what they were telling my at the archery shop), but i have rubber washers on my broadhead so that the broadhead blades are lined up with the vanes. any help is very apreciated.
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tuscaloosa, Al
Posts: 313
first thing to do is get your arrow level. move your rest up or down until it is level. then shoot it through the paper. it should be close to shooting a bullet hole. move the rest(not your nocking point) until you can shoot a bullet hole throught the paper. once youve done that then put your bh on your arrows and stick them on an arrow spinner to make sure the bh is aligned with the rest of your arrow. then shoot them compared with your fp(should be close) if not move your rest just a little bit whichever way it needs to go until your fp and bh are grouping together.
#3
Ya sounds like your nock is still to low or you can drop your rest a little if you still have clearance to accomplish the same thing. Learn how to do your own tuning if possible, you will get a better job instead of having to depend on someone else in the end. Serving a peep sight in is pretty simple too, there should be some tutorials on here if you do a search that you can refer to.
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
There is no benefit to aligning vanes with the blades. Your shop should know that. They probably do, but it sounds like they just told you that to get rid of you, a paying customer. I'd be done with that shop.
Anyway, I don't paper tune, no reason for it. It is only a beginning point and you'll need to walk-back tune and then broadhead tune anyway. Confirm that you have no fletch clearance issues. I'd start with the arrow level. Walk-back tune until your fieldpoints are falling in a vertical line. Adjust sights left-right if necessary. Then broadhead tune. Move the rest to put the broadhead in the field point group. If the broadheads hits high of the FPs, move the rest down. If the broadheads hit right of the FPs, move the rest out.
This is not hard to do, but many guys can't bring themselves to move their rest. They are convinced that they can't change anything once they get "bulletholes" in paper. The shooter is part of the overall shooting system. The geometric centershot of a given bow is usually not where it will end up for a given person, arrows, broadhead, etc.
Anyway, I don't paper tune, no reason for it. It is only a beginning point and you'll need to walk-back tune and then broadhead tune anyway. Confirm that you have no fletch clearance issues. I'd start with the arrow level. Walk-back tune until your fieldpoints are falling in a vertical line. Adjust sights left-right if necessary. Then broadhead tune. Move the rest to put the broadhead in the field point group. If the broadheads hits high of the FPs, move the rest down. If the broadheads hit right of the FPs, move the rest out.
This is not hard to do, but many guys can't bring themselves to move their rest. They are convinced that they can't change anything once they get "bulletholes" in paper. The shooter is part of the overall shooting system. The geometric centershot of a given bow is usually not where it will end up for a given person, arrows, broadhead, etc.
#5
Hope this helps ya! I have always shot 70lbs, back in the alluminum arrow days shot 2216's, now I shoot 5575 carbons topped with as I have always shot- 4 blade 100 grain muzzys and I have never had to move my rest or retune for bh flight versus fp flight after paper tuning! I now laser tune my bow and it's the same! Make sure that your not gripping your bow, now days bows are getting shorter and faster, which means harder to shoot!
#6
Weight your arrow with the bh and the fp, make sure they are the same. To me it sounds like your fp are heaver. You need to weight them both to be POSITIVE thats not the problem, and its a tuning issue. Thats my opinion.....
#7
Tune it yourself. After struggling with many shops, I said the heck with it. Buy a T square for your bow, it's pretty cheap at dicks. Then buy a Vernier caliper at Lowes. Get your knock point set where you need it. Then clamp 2 straight edges on either side of your bow right where your limbs and handle meet. I found 2 levels worked the best. Knock and arrow and use the vernier caliper to center your arrow. It works, it's quick and you'll be sure it's tuned properly.