NEBRbruiser

I was curious if someone could help me out. I recently switched from Rage to Slick Trick Grizztrick. I will say the slick tricks are by far the sharpest broad head out of the package I've used.

I noticed however that with the slick trick on there my total arrow length from broadhead tip to knock is shorter by almost an inch compared to using a Rage (also with a Crimson Talon). What, if anything, do I need to be aware of with this difference? Thank you,

kwilson16

It shouldn't make any difference. Make sure that you practice some with the ST's (and re-sharpen) to ensure that their point of impact is the same as your field points.

GMMAT

First thing you're gonna need to be aware of is......you "may" have to re-tune. In going from a mech. to a fixed head, ANY tuning discrepancies you may have are going to be magnified.

I wouldn't worry too much about total arrow length. You're gonna have to check tune, anyways. May be an issue. May not.

NEBRbruiser

Thats kind of the problem as well. I'm pretty new to bow hunting and don't really shoot with anyone that has been in the sport for a long time so as far as tuning, etc I have no idea what I'm doing so I actually have not even done much other than just practice shooting. I guess I wouldn't consider myself a hard core bow hunter. I know if I can hit a 4 in target repeatedly up to 30 yards thats good enough for me. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

GMMAT

If you switch these BH's and can do that.....rock on.

Good luck to you.

wallhangr

I know if I can hit a 4 in target repeatedly up to 30 yards thats good enough for me. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.[/quote]

If you find that you aren't able to do this, come back and post where they are hitting. Someone will answer and point you in the right direction.

MISwampDog

You have to be aware of alot. Almost every broadhead shoots differently. I have used many different brands of broadheads and this is what I've learned.

Depending on the shape and weight the fix blades may plain or drop. Before I had my new bow (300 fps) I would have to shoot with field points, then shoot with broadheads. It never failed that broadheads shot 2-5 inches lower depending on the brand. I've found that shorter/stumpy looking broadheads seem to fly more like field points than longer broadheads (strikers vs steelforce for example). Make sure to align your blades with the vanes. The broadhead is essentially a rutter at the front of your arrow, just like the vanes are in the rear. If the blades are not aligned with the vanes both will try to stear the arrow and may cause the arrow to plane right or plane left. Mechanical broadheads are designed to fly like field points, fixed blades are not. You may get lucky and your broadheads may fly just like your field points (i know i did with G5 strikers) but I would recommend practicing with the broadheads you shoot. Also spin test your broadheads. If the head and the arrow are not in line, this could also cause the broadhead to steer your arrow off course.

If you hunt from a tree stand shoot from an elevated position. Depending on your bow speed, arrow/broadhead combination, and your elevation your bow may shoot differently from a tree than on the ground.

Seems like alot of work, but if you take the time it will be worth it. Good luck and bag that buck.

Howler

Absolutely incorrect. It's been said and proven many times over that there is absolutely no reason to align a fixed braodhead with the vanes. It makes no difference. Fixed blade broadheads will fly like a field point if the bow is tuned, the spine of the arrow is correct, your form is good, and if they spin test well.

YooperMike

Correct, aligniment with fletching is completely unnecessary. I shoot Slicks and Grim Reapers, depending on my mood pretty much, and they impact in the same spots out to 40 yards. I've found the slicks to be the best shooting fixed blade out of my setup, and many others have said the same thing. The shorter profile makes them less prone to planing and wind drift. Shoot them first, and it is entirely possible you will not have to make any adjustments. If you do, post on here where they hit in relation to point of aim, and we can get you figured out.

TFOX

There is section on broadhead tuning in the Easton tuning guide.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf


This will help you get your broadheads and fieldpoints hitting the same spot but broadheads don't fly like field points.They fly like they have blades on them. Meaning,they are a little less forgiving to form flaws and wind planing but getting them tuned to hit with fieldpoint is usually not that big of a deal.SOMETIMES you can get a bad head that won't tune or a bow that doesn't want to shoot them tuned to the same poi but they are few and far between.

For them to hit the same poi.The arrow spine has to be spot on and you need decent form and adequate steering from your fletching.