I bought a set of six Muzzy broadheads two years ago and kept two for practice shooting, three in my quiver for hunting and one spare at home. I have not had an opportunity to shoot a deer so the hunting broadheads have never been used. Are they still sharp enough after two years for hunting? If not, why and what should I do (sharpen or buy new blades).

What made me think of this is, my shaving blades sit in my travel kit for a year and even though I may have only used them once or twice, they don' t seem sharp. Not sure why, but seems to be the case.

If the one' s you hunt haver never been in a target or the ground then yeah there are still has good has when you bought them....

They should still be good. However, it wouldn' t hurt to run them over a stone a bit and give them that little extra sharpness. Gotta make sure they' re lethal. I' ve gone three years without shooting a deer or using my broadheads. They are Thunderhead 100' s. Since they have replaceable blades, I just kept the original blades in the plastic case they came in and haven' t touched them. They are as sharp as the day I got them.
Mike,-

The Muzzys use a stainless blade and should be as sharp as new if they were never used but any broadhead using carbon steel blades could have some corrosion on the cutting edge and should be sharpened or replaced depending on what type heads they are. I believe if a blade is replacable they shouldnt be sharpened because it is near impossible to duplicate the edge put on at the factory. IMO
Dave

Unless your blades are completely dull from target shooting or dulled by other causes, NEVER FILE OR STONE THE EDGES.

If your blades have simply been stored for an extended period, or carried in a quiver while hunting, most likely the edges will only be slightly fouled by microscopic oxidation and dirt. Here is what I suggest, and can be used throughout the season to maintain sharp blades.

Obtain these materials:

1. A 100% Leather pants belt that has a smooth side and a rough side. NOT the type that has a thin layer of leather with a foam core.
2. Small can of " Stainless Steel Cutting Oil." You can find it a most hardware stores.
3. " Jeweler' s Rouge" in stick or paste form You can usually find at hobby shop or jewelry store.
4. One pair of medical clamping forceps with nose that is long enough to clamp the entire length of broadhead blade. Looks like scissors but used for clamping with varied pressure. Can be found at any store that carries fishing supplies. (Wal-Mart, etc.) About $3.00 - $4.00.
5. Small tube of electrical connection anti-oxidation grease. Kind used by electricians when wiring. Can be found an most hardware and home repair stores.
6. Small (cheap) art painting brush. Kind that kids use.
7. 2 medium hardness toothbrushes.
8. Two blocks of wood that are cut to same width as belt x 6" long x 1" thick.
9. Contact cement. Fletching cement works great.

Make this:

1. Cut two 6" lengths from the belt.
2. Using one block of wood, glue one length of belt to face of wood, with SMOOTH side of belt up.
3. Using one block of wood, glue one length of belt to face of wood, with ROUGH side of belt up.
4. Allow cement to completely dry.
5. When glue has dried; using the ROUGH section of leather covered block, completely and lightly saturate the leather with the " Stainless Steel Cutting Oil." Wipe off excess. Leather should have a damp appearance.
6. When glue has dried; using the SMOOTH section of leather covered block, completely cover the leather with the " Jeweler' s Rouge." Lightly work the rough into the leather so that the surface of the belt is smooth but with a very thin layer of rouge on the surface.

Do this:

1. Using the clamping forceps, firmly clamp the back edge of the blade, firm enough that blade does not move. Make sure that entire edge of blade can touch the leather without the forceps obstructing movement. (On a Muzzy; clamp blade against angled portion of base that inserts into ferrule).
2. Using the ROUGH leather that is treated with the stainless steel cutting oil, place edge of blade to front of leather (strop), slightly angled (tip high and back lower). Judge the bevel of the edge and tilt the blade to bevel.
3. Using light downward force, lightly drag the blade to you. Do this a maximum of 4 times on each side of the blade. All you are doing is removing microscopic garbage from the edges.
4. Using a clean cloth, gently wipe the blades dry. DO NOT DRAG THE CUTTING OIL ON APEX OF BLADE EDGE.
5. After you have pre-dressed all blades on the cutting oil, now use the same dragging process on the SMOOTH leather. EXCEPT, wipe each blade edge about 8 times on the rouge-covered leather.
6. After doing six blade edges, I would apply a new coat of rouge on the SMOOTH leather.
7. When honing is completed, wipe blades clead of rouge. Using the artist brush, apply a thin coat of anti-oxidation grease to blades. You can remove the film for field use. I don' t
8. When finished, use one toothbrush for the cutting oil strop, and one toothbrush for the rouge covered strop. (KEEP THE BRUSHES SEPARATE AND ALWAYS USE THE SAME BRUSH FOR THE SAME STROP)

I use a ceramic broadhead sharpener called a " tru angle" " . Before every season and some inbetween I touch up the broadheads that are still in my quiver. Even if you dont shoot these they can slightly dull over time by vibration in the quiver or from pulling them out and sticking them back in. Touch them up and put a light coat of vasoline on them. You' ll save alot of money in the long run by not having to buy so many replacement blades.
Oh, and heres another little tip. When using the tru angle sharpener, take the trokar tip off the muzzy broadhead before you sharpen it.

I have shot and killed Elk with broadheads that have been in my quiver for three or four years and never had a problem. I shoot target points to proactice, never have I practiced with my broadheads. I do not sharpen them I buy new insert blades...

WOW.

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Yea thats the first time I have ever heard that. I couldn' t imagine not practicing/tuning with broadheads.


Whats your reasoning to this?