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-   -   Want to try a new arrow.. any suggestions? (https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/bowhunting/320215-want-try-new-arrow-any-suggestions.html)

BvrHunter 03-23-2010 05:26 AM

Want to try a new arrow.. any suggestions?
 
Been shooting the Carbon Express Maximas ever since I switched from aluminum shafts. Nothing in the world wrong with them. Would just like to see what else is out there but kinda scared to take the leap. Just wondering what other shafts are comparable. Price is not so much an issue but something cheaper is always nice. Current set-up is 68 lbs. 28 inch DL shooting a CX 350 with 100 grain BH. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

bigcountry 03-23-2010 05:31 AM

Carbon Tech Whitetails
Easton ACC

Love em both.

kwilson16 03-23-2010 05:51 AM

I switched to ACCs about 6 months ago having shot GT and Carbon Express extensively. Their straightness and spine consistency are top notch. Their weight (9.5 grain per inch) helps to reduce noise and increase penetration.

I used PDP inserts with a small (20 grain) weight to bring my FOC right to 12%
http://www.pdparchery.com/

ACC's are very fine shooting arrows.

HoytUltratec 03-23-2010 05:52 AM

Try the easton axis ST full metal jackets run about 65$ i used to shoot maximas and i love them but i like the newer ST (slimtech) design on the eastons.

ek_buckmaster 03-23-2010 06:23 AM

I just picked up Beemans Bone Collector edition and i love them.

BvrHunter 03-23-2010 06:25 AM

What size ACC would be right for my setup?? I only knew to shoot the 350 grain CX because of the scale they had based off of DL and DW

bigcountry 03-23-2010 06:42 AM


Originally Posted by BvrHunter (Post 3600252)
What size ACC would be right for my setup?? I only knew to shoot the 350 grain CX because of the scale they had based off of DL and DW

You want the .340" spined ACC's. If it was me I would cut em to 30" to start, tune for the bow, and cut down if needed. ACC's are expensive and its easy to cut arrows but you can't put it back. bad news is you will lose the inserts.

I believe 28" is going to be stiff for 28" draw. Would be fine for 29.5" DL.

BvrHunter 03-23-2010 06:59 AM


Originally Posted by bigcountry (Post 3600272)
You want the .340" spined ACC's. If it was me I would cut em to 30" to start, tune for the bow, and cut down if needed. ACC's are expensive and its easy to cut arrows but you can't put it back. bad news is you will lose the inserts.

I believe 28" is going to be stiff for 28" draw. Would be fine for 29.5" DL.

Thanks BC, when you cut to length are you including the nock?

bigcountry 03-23-2010 07:19 AM


Originally Posted by BvrHunter (Post 3600285)
Thanks BC, when you cut to length are you including the nock?

Yes, inside of nock to the end of the arrow without fieldtip

BGfisher 03-23-2010 08:09 AM

You don't need to lose the points if cutting ACC's down. Just install the inserts with hot melt glue same as you would with aluminum arrows. Then all you need to do is cut the arrows down, heat up the end of the piece you cut off and reuse the inserts.

If you are cutting a short piece, shorter than the insert you can apply heat to the point. Take it easy here as you don't want the shaft getting too hot. Apply enough heat to the point that you can grab the point with a pliers and pull the insert out.

kwilson16 03-23-2010 09:22 AM


Originally Posted by BGfisher (Post 3600314)
Take it easy here as you don't want the shaft getting too hot. Apply enough heat to the point that you can grab the point with a pliers and pull the insert out.

Everything BGfisher is suggesting has worked great for me. When I remove an insert, I heat an un-installed point for 6 seconds with a propane torch and then screw it in a few turns and pull hard. The insert will come out immediately without heating up the shaft.

I cut my last set of ACC's long (as suggested), then used the tuning method of choice (broadhead in my case). After tuning vertical with the rest/nock point, I left the rest centered and trimmed the shaft 0.5 to 1.0 inch each time until horizontally tuned. The shaft should present 'weak' indications initially but each reduction in shaft length will stiffen dynamic spine.

You can polish off the tune with some very small horizontal rest adjustments.

kwilson16 03-23-2010 09:29 AM

The .340 spined ACC's are designated 3-60. The prohunters might be different but I haven't tried them yet.

BvrHunter 03-23-2010 10:47 AM

Awesome thanks for the info. I was looking at the ST Axis Nano Carbon online just alittle while ago. Seems Easton makes alot of the same/but differrent shafts. Hard to find the real diffference in alot of them. Marketing scheme??? Is there really a difference in the ST axis nano and the axis FMJ??

BvrHunter 03-23-2010 12:55 PM

Hmm after doing alot of research online and on this website in past threads I'm debating on even changing at all. The ST Axis nano's seem nice, basspro as a dozen for $100 bare shaft vrs. $80 for half a dozen CX maxima 3d select's which is what I have been shooting.

$100 for 12 ST Easton Axis nano

$80 for 6 3d select CX maxima's

What would you do???

WesternMdHardwoods 03-23-2010 01:29 PM


Originally Posted by BvrHunter (Post 3600481)
Hmm after doing alot of research online and on this website in past threads I'm debating on even changing at all. The ST Axis nano's seem nice, basspro as a dozen for $100 bare shaft vrs. $80 for half a dozen CX maxima 3d select's which is what I have been shooting.

$100 for 12 ST Easton Axis nano

$80 for 6 3d select CX maxima's

What would you do???

Neither I would look into Easton FMJ's or Easton ACC's.

If I am reading that right 1doz CX Maximas would cost you roughly $140-155...correct?
The FMJ's will run you roughly $120-135 a dozen and ACC's would put you in the same price range as you are with the Maximas.

I have never shot the Easton Axis Nano's or the CX Maximas but from what I have heard about both, they are both great arrows. Id say the price difference would make the choice for me.

aaddicted 03-24-2010 12:11 PM

The Easton Nano is a pure carbon arrow with some sort of nano tube technology. The FMJ is an aluminum wrapped carbon.

You cant go wrong either way. I use the Nano's and love them. I originally wanted to go with the FMJ's but they were a bit heavier and I thought they would slow my bow down a little bit more then I wanted, so I went with the Nanos.

Both arrows are super tough, and penetrate extremely well.


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