tuning tips:get your broadhaeds to shoot like field tips
 

So I have seen posts on not getting the broadheads to group like field tips so I am going to post a few tips on tuning arrows.As long as you are following these tips you should never have to ajust your sights from field tips to broadheads and your groups should be the same as your field tips.Attachment 6936 First start off with your arrow cut to legnth and insert in and glue dry if using a internal insert.If you have a regular insert or aluminum arrow there will be different steps. you will need a grinding stone as shown in picture.you can get them at your local pro shop.second a broadhead the same weight as your field tip.Attachment 6935 The second step for internal inserts is to spin the arrow putting pressure on the arrow grinding it until the blades line up with the broadheadAttachment 6933spin the arrow on your hand and check for wobbles in the shaft.Attachment 6934If there are wobbles take off the broadhead and repeat the grinding method over.grind down only enuf to make the broadhead line up with the next fletching check for wobbles and repeat if neccicary.sometimes it will take a few times to get a true tune.the arrow should have zero wobble in it and line up perfect.doing this will make your arrows fly true and just the same as a field point.
now if you have regular inserts when putting the insert in I will use a slow cure glue and do the same steps pretty much.Put the broadhead in the insert without glue.grind arrow as shown.put in insert and check the tuning as shown.once tuned add the glue and line up the broadhead.spin tune and rotate from fletch to fletch till the tune is true.set arrow with the broadhead strait up till glue dries. don't set the arrow on the broadhead anywhere.Hopefully this helps some people.:bash:

Ok now what if I have a 2 blade broad head or a 4 blade broad head how do I line those up with my fletching?

Lining up blades with the fletching is an old wives tale and does absolutely nothing.

I can't belive they said it's a wise tale.Would you shoot a bent arrow? The tuning puts the wieght placement of the broadhead even.If the broadhead is off center the arrow will loop when shot. an off center broadhead causes the arrow to fly untrue becouse while in flight the wieght offcenter during the spin of the arrow causes the arrow to fly off axis.if you want to test this get a cheap broadhed that will not tune and set it off tune and shoot it threw paper.it's simple logic. As for 4 bladed broadheads they will line up just fine for 4 fletched arrows which they were originally designed for. and most two bladed broadheads are mechanical or ment for recurves.mechanical broadheads you tune for any fletch broadhead and the blades are closed on flight. and the lining of the fletches is all aerodynamics..science has brought archery a long ways. and this post was only to give help if you don't like my methods don't use them.

Blacktail-that myth was shattered years ago. PSE even has a video of an arrow in a air chamber in slow motion, which a shortened version has been posted on here.

Hey, this same guy is recommending a guy with a 70lb Xforce shoot a .5" spined arrow in another post. This says alot.

Mark.

From reading his posts it's clear he has no idea.

He's probably only 15 and trying to big note himself.:rolleye0011:

[quote=blacktail4ever;3554362]So I have seen posts on not getting the broadheads to group like field tips so I am going to post a few tips on tuning arrows.As long as you are following these tips you should never have to ajust your sights from field tips to broadheads and your groups should be the same as your field tips.Attachment 6936 First start off with your arrow cut to legnth and insert in and glue dry if using a internal insert.If you have a regular insert or aluminum arrow there will be different steps. you will need a grinding stone as shown in picture.you can get them at your local pro shop.second a broadhead the same weight as your field tip.Attachment 6935 The second step for internal inserts is to spin the arrow putting pressure on the arrow grinding it until the blades line up with the broadheadAttachment 6933spin the arrow on your hand and check for wobbles in the shaft.Attachment 6934If there are wobbles take off the broadhead and repeat the grinding method over.grind down only enuf to make the broadhead line up with the next fletching check for wobbles and repeat if neccicary.sometimes it will take a few times to get a true tune.the arrow should have zero wobble in it and line up perfect.doing this will make your arrows fly true and just the same as a field point.
now if you have regular inserts when putting the insert in I will use a slow cure glue and do the same steps pretty much.Put the broadhead in the insert without glue.grind arrow as shown.put in insert and check the tuning as shown.once tuned add the glue and line up the broadhead.spin tune and rotate from fletch to fletch till the tune is true.set arrow with the broadhead strait up till glue dries. don't set the arrow on the broadhead anywhere.Hopefully this helps some people.:bash:[/quote:nonono2:

Look slander my words and talk all you want.I have more years dealing with this than most.most of you will try this anyways.If I am wrong why do easton arrows come with tuning stones.I told you to take the test.shoot a arrow that is untuned at 40 yards and a tuned arrow and see what flys better.I will have this test demo and have photos at the league shoot today to prove my post.And as for my backroundI have been in league shoots since I was seven and now have over 20 years shooting I come from a family who took state every year since my grandpa was in his 20's.my grandfather worked and was buissness partners with martin archery when compounds were 1st invented.we all have worked in archery shops and for bowtech building bows.we go to trade shows andhunt religously. I have more pope and young bucks than most people. I think I have a little knowledge

here are some sites by the pros to prove my post
http://www.bowhuntingmag.com/tactics...d_flight/#cont

The Well-Tuned Bow
The first thing you have to do is make sure your setup is truly tuned. Don't be fooled into thinking that your bow is in tune because you can shoot tight groups with field points. Field points can be very forgiving, and it's possible for an out-of-tune bow to shoot one-inch groups at 20 yards with field points. (This is why mechanical broadheads tend to group better. They're much more like field points.)



Most broadheads, however, aren't going to let you get away with bad tuning, especially if you have a fast bow. This is because the blades on a broadhead can act like wings and steer an arrow all over a target face. Launch an arrow poorly and the blades will catch air and drift off target right from the start.
read the rest of this artical

http://www.parsonsoutdoors.com/broadhead_tuning.html
http://www.muzzy.com/muzzy_help/broadhead_tuning.htm
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...&storeId=10151
http://www.pabucks.com/broadhead_tuning.html
http://bowsite.com/bowsite/features/...ght/index.html

need I post more I will fill a whole page.Look at these sites before you critise my post....

Man, the guy is just trying to give a little free advice. I agree it doesn't seem to do much lining up blades with fletches but it is fun to tinker with anyways. No need to jump his nads like their some kind of gummie bear.

Chris.....I agree with not jumping on the guy. But, he lost me, right here.

If you start off with your arrow cut to length, you're denying yourself a crucial tool in achieving tune.

i could go way more into depth with foc and stuff but this was the basics.Having your arrow cut to legnth will efect nothing as far as tuning.the amount you are gringing is so minimal it won't effect anything.you only grind enuf to gain a little more turn on the thread.if your grinding more than an 1/8th inch you have more serious problems. this mthod was for carbon arrows

But this guy is a league shooter. I am just sayin.

To clean up the SHAFT after it is cut so the insert will fit square to the shaft.

I have 48 years of shooting and have shot against and with the best in the world including the 1980 Olympic gold medalist.

In only 1 of the links you supplied did the writer say he aligns the blades to his feathers and that was the Basspro shop guy.

All of the others say to have the head square to the shaft.

Nothing wrong with posting tips and tricks just make sure the information you are giving is the right info as said before PSE busted the myth of having blades aligned to the fletching.

If by doing that makes you feel good then so be it.

Oh please do I am interested to find out what you think the best FOC is.

This is what I have learned with aligning the fletches.If pse busted that tip than so be it I will continue to align mine the same becouse I like the consistancy.that was only one tip in this post and what is WRONG about it? what is actually one thing that will hurt the performance of the flight

I am shooting 20% on one bow right now. Working out well for me.

Mark.

As you know on 1 set mine is 24% and on the other is 38%:wink:

We are probably wrong.:D

12.5% foc...that is what I am at

Russ, how do ever expect to be a league shooter with 24%?

Do you have any Idea what foc has to do with arrows?

Its only the most critical thing you could ever imagine.

Geesh. Whats wrong with these people blacktail?

No seriously, Russ and myself shoots over 20%.

I dont, but it sure does pi$$ off the 3d guys when they have to pull my arrows:D

Most expert archers agree that an FOC value that is between 7 and 10 percent will produce the best compromise between stability and a flat trajectory. The American Society for Testing and Materials, in their specification for measuring balance point, state that a value of 9% is typical. But, they also state that the range can be as wide as 7% to 18% while still producing good arrow flight characteristics.

I am only here to offer my two cents.I have done alot of homework on getting my bow to perform at the top level it can.I get you want to make me look stupid but I am a little curious to your knowledge.I am not here to insult people and I can't help but to assume you must be involved in PETA.why else would you not want to have my post recognized

Dr. Ashby explains how to get max penetration and best guiding charateristics, more is better in this case.

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimate...ubb=forum;f=24

are we after maximum pennitration or are we after accuracy in this post

Blacktail:

I'm not talking about myself.....but I'll offer a little advice.

When you're only capable of broken Chinese, don't go into Dragon Kim's Rest. and start speaking it. They speak the language, quite fluently, and they'll know you don't.

It'll certainly affect your ability to adjust your arrow length (longer),now, won't it? Unless you're willing to adjust draw length and/or tip weight to achieve optimal tune.....and you pre-cut your arrows, you've denied yourself a crucial tool.

Honestly...this is commendable. But you're being (IMO) a little short-sighted in how one arrives, there. There is definitely more than one way to skin a cat (or tune a bow). There are NOT, however, truths that can be denied.

Agreed, there is no need to jump all over someone just trying to help others. Come on guys, we are all here just to enjoy and talk about hunting we dont need people naggin on each other like that.

Per usual, both.

People have different tools for different jobs. I myself am not a field archer, nor do I shoot my trad bows at 80 yards. Field trad archers look for different things than I do.

Most here are hunters, and as hunters quietness, stability, penetration all matter first and formost.

I am more about accuracy shot placement should be the most important thing when shooting game.I don't worry about pennitration with my bow since I pass threw everything I shoot no problem

Sounds like you should be a rifle only hunter to me.

Not trying to bust your chops or anything but what good is it to be accurate if you dont have the penetration?

On the other hand what good is it to have penetration without accuracy?

Like Jeff said we are after combination of both as 1 without the other is totally useless.

Read through Dr Asby reports in the link BC gave.

I have been using extreme FOC for years because it works and not only for hunting but for target, 3d and field archery.

looks like you find flaws in everyone else to each his own I guess.

I had stated that I shoot a bow that will acheve more than enuf pennitration.I more focus my attention to accuracy. check the specs on my bow and tell me whats wrong.I agree with you on pennitration,thats no doubt.i am just trying to post on accuracy here and tuning tips.There may be better ways but this is what works well for me.just trying to pass the knowledge

Not everyone.

Hey...I'm not knocking your ideas. I'm telling you you're in heady company (and not me). I'm guessing Dustin Pedroia doesn't stand by the cage, during the all-star game and give Ryan Howard tips on hittin' the long ball.

and I would not expect Jake Kaminski to take lessons from me but someone who has little experiance this might be the info they are looking for

I can't help but notice how rude you guys are being. This is ridiculous, and as a 16 year old bowhunter on this website, this makes us scared to ask questions and post tips. Jeesh, i've actually done this and it seems to work. Quit being so rude and sarcastic and grow up.

I was confused by his instructions,what exactly are we suppose to grind,the arrow,insert the directions wern't very clear,the way I undertand it we should square the end of the arrows after they have been cut to the proper lenth so the insert will seat onto the arrow square and the broadhead seats onto the insert square,is this correct?

yes the insert is supose to be square to the shaft the chamfer stone is for a hit insert and this post was mostly on tuning of a hidden insert arrow. what happens is people just screw in a broadhead and think its good to go. if the arrow is spinning off axis due to the broadhead being unalined it will cause the arrow to loop. think of it as if you were to add extra wieght to one blade of you broadhead how would it fly. thats what happens when broadheads are not tuned