What Compound bow would be best for me?
12-26-2009, 01:46 PM
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location:
Posts: 21
What Compound bow would be best for me?
I'm wanting to start bowhunting next year big time and was wondering what bow would be the best for me. I'm 6'4 and my arms are 30 inches long. What kind of bow would be best for me and then what kind of accessroies would I need for it. I would like to get one by or around june so i have plenty of time to practice. I have benn watching hunting shows where they just use bows and I have been really inspired.
Thanks
Thanks
12-26-2009, 02:15 PM
#2
Typical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 567
Everyone's got their own preference on brands. They all have their good qualities. Your best bet is to go to a local archery shop with an indoor range and shoot several different bows. As a beginner to archery, you might want a bow with a fairly long axle to axle and brace height. I am by no means an expert, but to me these are more forgiving. Don't get caught up in buying the fastest bow. Smooth and quiet is the way to go.
I shoot a Bowtech Guardian set at 29" and 70lbs. It works for me. Good luck.
I shoot a Bowtech Guardian set at 29" and 70lbs. It works for me. Good luck.
12-26-2009, 02:49 PM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: IL./Iowa Boarder
Posts: 1,621
If possible go to local Archery/sport shop & see what they have in a PRICE RANGE your interested in & see about getting your proper draw length. Lots of excellent Bows out there that ARE NOT $7-800. 50# to 60# draw weight. tons of excellent bows for $200-$300. I've killed Buffalo, Elk, Caribou, Bears & a ton of deer & Hogs with 60#s so unless your going after Grizzly Or Africa it's plenty. 50#s would be great to learn on & then gradually increase the weight to 60#s when you go hunting. Look at Cabelas on line-Bargain Cave sometimes excellent buys if your local can't help you-bows & arrows. If your local knows about Archery & has something you like, stick with them even if you pay a few $$ more. IF the bow feels good in your hand at full draw you more than likley will shoot it well once you learn. The BOW has to feel good in your hand. Accesories. You will probably want a bow quiver -thats what I use but I have it attached to my Pack & hang it when in Deer Stand. Release-Thats personal choice-I use a wrist strap type-index finger that cost $30. High price don't always make it better. SIGHT-3 pin type & again-it's what you want to spend. Mine is around $30.
So, lets see what YOU NEED.
1-Bow-50#60#s with 75% or more let off. price, your call.
2-Arrows-Aluminum or Carbon-Any arrow over $40 Dz. should be fine. your choice again. Buy a finished arrow already cut to your length.
3-Rest-that should come with Bow but I use a prong type-**** vane down-Maybe $20...
4-3 pin sight-anything $30 & up is fine. Also-I recommed a peep sight in the string. $6-$7.
5-Release-Wrist type probably the easiest to use & helps with proper form. $25-$30 should be fine.
6-Some type Quiver-Bow Quiver holds 4 to 7 arrows-your choice again.
7-Broadhead-3 blade fixed. Just do a search-3 blade fixed broadheads. All my family (5 bowhunters) shoot Rocky Mountains-not cheap. There are many excellent heads-Cabelas has their own brand, Muzzy is a big seller..
Ive been shooting Dartons for many years but as I said-many others out there that are excellent. Matthews, Hoyt, Martin, Bear, PSE. I've been Bowhunting/Archery for 53 years.
Arrows-Buy the BEST arrow you can afford-this is very important. I shoot xx75 Easton Aluminums BUT Many Archers today shoot Carbons. Carbons come in a wide variety of cost as do Aluminum. I tried Carbons a couple years & went back to aluminum. My son loves Carbons. Personal choice...
Broadheads. Big craz on expandibles but I (MY OPINOIN) think the fixed blades are best. I would say choose a THREE BLADE 100 or 125gr head. They always fly great & do a number on any biggame your going to Bowhunt.
Just get what YOU want & is in your price range. If you stick with it & as you learn, you will be able to make those high $$$ choices on things if you think thats what you need. Everyone will have some sort suggestion & a reason why. I'm old school-the Basics seem to always be the best...
1-My current outfit is a $200+ Single cam Darton I bought in Cabelas Bargain Cave for $99. 60#s 75% letoff. I have 2 other Dartons that were purchased for $180 & both are over 10 years old. Still being used..
2-Easton XX75 Aluminum camo Arrows I purchased for $45 Dz.
(I also make many of my families Arrows when I get shafts at a bargain)
Cobra Bowsight that was $15 & a peep sight. Yea, & it's been the one that killed hogs, Elk, Deer, Bears, Buffalo & more...
3-Prong arrow rest that came on the bow.
4-7 Arrow Bow quiver-seldome on bow-usually on my pack hanging while I hunt.
5-Wrist Release from Wahl Mart that cost me $25. I don't even remember the name-I just know it feels good & I like it.
Back in my tourny days my bow was the most expensive you could buy, my sight was over $150 (the 1970s) & every trinket avaiable was hanging on it. My arrows were the most expensive X7s by Easton & the best release I could find that I liked. I would step up to the line with probably $1000 in tackle back in the mid 70s. Today-you can have that with JUST THE BOW.
It's a great sport so I hope you get started & have a great time.
Any other questions, feel free to e-mail. Remember-these are MY opinions & I am sure others will chime in...
This is an Elk taken with the $99, 60# Darton Bow about 5 years ago when it was new
So, lets see what YOU NEED.
1-Bow-50#60#s with 75% or more let off. price, your call.
2-Arrows-Aluminum or Carbon-Any arrow over $40 Dz. should be fine. your choice again. Buy a finished arrow already cut to your length.
3-Rest-that should come with Bow but I use a prong type-**** vane down-Maybe $20...
4-3 pin sight-anything $30 & up is fine. Also-I recommed a peep sight in the string. $6-$7.
5-Release-Wrist type probably the easiest to use & helps with proper form. $25-$30 should be fine.
6-Some type Quiver-Bow Quiver holds 4 to 7 arrows-your choice again.
7-Broadhead-3 blade fixed. Just do a search-3 blade fixed broadheads. All my family (5 bowhunters) shoot Rocky Mountains-not cheap. There are many excellent heads-Cabelas has their own brand, Muzzy is a big seller..
Ive been shooting Dartons for many years but as I said-many others out there that are excellent. Matthews, Hoyt, Martin, Bear, PSE. I've been Bowhunting/Archery for 53 years.
Arrows-Buy the BEST arrow you can afford-this is very important. I shoot xx75 Easton Aluminums BUT Many Archers today shoot Carbons. Carbons come in a wide variety of cost as do Aluminum. I tried Carbons a couple years & went back to aluminum. My son loves Carbons. Personal choice...
Broadheads. Big craz on expandibles but I (MY OPINOIN) think the fixed blades are best. I would say choose a THREE BLADE 100 or 125gr head. They always fly great & do a number on any biggame your going to Bowhunt.
Just get what YOU want & is in your price range. If you stick with it & as you learn, you will be able to make those high $$$ choices on things if you think thats what you need. Everyone will have some sort suggestion & a reason why. I'm old school-the Basics seem to always be the best...
1-My current outfit is a $200+ Single cam Darton I bought in Cabelas Bargain Cave for $99. 60#s 75% letoff. I have 2 other Dartons that were purchased for $180 & both are over 10 years old. Still being used..
2-Easton XX75 Aluminum camo Arrows I purchased for $45 Dz.
(I also make many of my families Arrows when I get shafts at a bargain)
Cobra Bowsight that was $15 & a peep sight. Yea, & it's been the one that killed hogs, Elk, Deer, Bears, Buffalo & more...
3-Prong arrow rest that came on the bow.
4-7 Arrow Bow quiver-seldome on bow-usually on my pack hanging while I hunt.
5-Wrist Release from Wahl Mart that cost me $25. I don't even remember the name-I just know it feels good & I like it.
Back in my tourny days my bow was the most expensive you could buy, my sight was over $150 (the 1970s) & every trinket avaiable was hanging on it. My arrows were the most expensive X7s by Easton & the best release I could find that I liked. I would step up to the line with probably $1000 in tackle back in the mid 70s. Today-you can have that with JUST THE BOW.
It's a great sport so I hope you get started & have a great time.
Any other questions, feel free to e-mail. Remember-these are MY opinions & I am sure others will chime in...
This is an Elk taken with the $99, 60# Darton Bow about 5 years ago when it was new
12-26-2009, 04:15 PM
#4
Fork Horn
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 106
I'm guessing that your draw will be 31 inches or so. I'm having a hard time finding one of the reasonably priced bows with more than a 30 inch draw.
I guess my advice would be to stay away from the fastest bows, usually they have a harsh draw cycle and are a little less accurate than the other bows.
Also, I am personally picking my arrow weight to give me a 250 fps arrows. At this speed fixed broadheads should fly fine and I prefer a fixed. The heavier arrow also gives me a little better penetration and a little more KE down range. What I lose is a little forgiveness in range estimation.
.... I'll be back ...
I guess my advice would be to stay away from the fastest bows, usually they have a harsh draw cycle and are a little less accurate than the other bows.
Also, I am personally picking my arrow weight to give me a 250 fps arrows. At this speed fixed broadheads should fly fine and I prefer a fixed. The heavier arrow also gives me a little better penetration and a little more KE down range. What I lose is a little forgiveness in range estimation.
.... I'll be back ...
12-27-2009, 10:37 AM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Burke, VA (raised in MD)
Posts: 1,096
Everyone's got their own preference on brands. They all have their good qualities. Your best bet is to go to a local archery shop with an indoor range and shoot several different bows. As a beginner to archery, you might want a bow with a fairly long axle to axle and brace height. I am by no means an expert, but to me these are more forgiving. Don't get caught up in buying the fastest bow. Smooth and quiet is the way to go.
This is great advice.
12-28-2009, 04:34 AM
#9
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location:
Posts: 7,367
Fit is the Most important thing! Find out what draw length is going to fit you as close as you can. If you buy a Bow that is module adjustable, it makes fine tuning the draw length much easier.
Bows that require a Cam swap to change draw length are a PIA IMHO.
Shoot all the Bows you can get your hands on. One will just feel better for You. Draw length is going to determine to a great degree what you need to shoot, but don't fail to take a look at the BowTech & Diamond line.
Good Luck & Have Fun!!
Dan
Bows that require a Cam swap to change draw length are a PIA IMHO.
Shoot all the Bows you can get your hands on. One will just feel better for You. Draw length is going to determine to a great degree what you need to shoot, but don't fail to take a look at the BowTech & Diamond line.
Good Luck & Have Fun!!
Dan
12-28-2009, 06:14 AM
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 1,559
Everyone's got their own preference on brands. They all have their good qualities. Your best bet is to go to a local archery shop with an indoor range and shoot several different bows. As a beginner to archery, you might want a bow with a fairly long axle to axle and brace height. I am by no means an expert, but to me these are more forgiving. Don't get caught up in buying the fastest bow. Smooth and quiet is the way to go.
Nothing else needs to be said, shoot as many bows as you can and find the one that feels the best to you. Being new, a pro shop is the way to, they will help fit you into a bow with the right DL. Good luck and have fun with your search!
