Fixed Broadheads
#21
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,425
This is kinda like asking for advice about women...No way in heck can someone on this end of the line tell you...
I do know this, Thunderheads and Muzzys shoot to the same point as my field points out of my bow and I shoot a Biscuit and fingers...You may think your setup is tuned and all that but I've shot these things for 40 years and the equipment now is far superior to what we were shooting in the 60s and 70s...Any properly matched bow and arrows can be fine tuned to shoot to the same point as field points...
You need professional help...Ask around about a good bow shop in your area...It may cost a few bucks but if the right man looks at your setup he can fix it...
I do know this, Thunderheads and Muzzys shoot to the same point as my field points out of my bow and I shoot a Biscuit and fingers...You may think your setup is tuned and all that but I've shot these things for 40 years and the equipment now is far superior to what we were shooting in the 60s and 70s...Any properly matched bow and arrows can be fine tuned to shoot to the same point as field points...
You need professional help...Ask around about a good bow shop in your area...It may cost a few bucks but if the right man looks at your setup he can fix it...
#22
thanks for all of the help..i just got back from my buddies house shootin our bows and he had a 2 blade rage practice head and grouped with the rest of my fieldpoints out to 40.all the input was a lot of help btw.i shot my muzzy mx-3s again and they still shoot high.
Last edited by kateraxl2381; 09-10-2009 at 05:36 PM.
#23
Its just a tuning issue. Fixed heads catch air and will try and guide the arrow from the front. Heres a link that may help you...
http://www.redhawk-archery.com/bh-tuning.html
http://www.redhawk-archery.com/bh-tuning.html
#25
#1. You don't need a drop away. The WB is one of the easiest to tune rest made today. Keep shooting the WB.
#2. Have you bothered to spin your arrows with broadheads attached to make sure that the broadhead is in perfect alignment with the arrow shaft? If not then you are wasting your time with everything else.
#3. If your braodhead tipped arrows are consistently hitting in the same place in a nice tight group then all you have to do is move your rest in the direction of your field tipped arrows. In other words if your broadheads are impacting 3 inches high of your field tipped arrows then move your rest down in 1/32" increments until they group together.
#4. Just because your Rage heads are impacting with your field tips now doesn't mean squat. Your bow/arrow combination is still slightly out of tune and your arrows are still not entering the target perfectly straight and you are wasting KE (in flight as well as at the target) that could be used to push the arrow through the animal and break bones.
Of course this is all assuming that your arrows are properly spined and your bow is set up properly.
#2. Have you bothered to spin your arrows with broadheads attached to make sure that the broadhead is in perfect alignment with the arrow shaft? If not then you are wasting your time with everything else.
#3. If your braodhead tipped arrows are consistently hitting in the same place in a nice tight group then all you have to do is move your rest in the direction of your field tipped arrows. In other words if your broadheads are impacting 3 inches high of your field tipped arrows then move your rest down in 1/32" increments until they group together.
#4. Just because your Rage heads are impacting with your field tips now doesn't mean squat. Your bow/arrow combination is still slightly out of tune and your arrows are still not entering the target perfectly straight and you are wasting KE (in flight as well as at the target) that could be used to push the arrow through the animal and break bones.
Of course this is all assuming that your arrows are properly spined and your bow is set up properly.
#26
#1. You don't need a drop away. The WB is one of the easiest to tune rest made today. Keep shooting the WB.
#2. Have you bothered to spin your arrows with broadheads attached to make sure that the broadhead is in perfect alignment with the arrow shaft? If not then you are wasting your time with everything else.
#3. If your braodhead tipped arrows are consistently hitting in the same place in a nice tight group then all you have to do is move your rest in the direction of your field tipped arrows. In other words if your broadheads are impacting 3 inches high of your field tipped arrows then move your rest down in 1/32" increments until they group together.
#4. Just because your Rage heads are impacting with your field tips now doesn't mean squat. Your bow/arrow combination is still slightly out of tune and your arrows are still not entering the target perfectly straight and you are wasting KE (in flight as well as at the target) that could be used to push the arrow through the animal and break bones.
Of course this is all assuming that your arrows are properly spined and your bow is set up properly.
#2. Have you bothered to spin your arrows with broadheads attached to make sure that the broadhead is in perfect alignment with the arrow shaft? If not then you are wasting your time with everything else.
#3. If your braodhead tipped arrows are consistently hitting in the same place in a nice tight group then all you have to do is move your rest in the direction of your field tipped arrows. In other words if your broadheads are impacting 3 inches high of your field tipped arrows then move your rest down in 1/32" increments until they group together.
#4. Just because your Rage heads are impacting with your field tips now doesn't mean squat. Your bow/arrow combination is still slightly out of tune and your arrows are still not entering the target perfectly straight and you are wasting KE (in flight as well as at the target) that could be used to push the arrow through the animal and break bones.
Of course this is all assuming that your arrows are properly spined and your bow is set up properly.
i have spin tested my mx3s and they are fine..ill have to try number 3..thanks bigbulls
#27
#1. You don't need a drop away. The WB is one of the easiest to tune rest made today. Keep shooting the WB.
#2. Have you bothered to spin your arrows with broadheads attached to make sure that the broadhead is in perfect alignment with the arrow shaft? If not then you are wasting your time with everything else.
#3. If your braodhead tipped arrows are consistently hitting in the same place in a nice tight group then all you have to do is move your rest in the direction of your field tipped arrows. In other words if your broadheads are impacting 3 inches high of your field tipped arrows then move your rest down in 1/32" increments until they group together.
#4. Just because your Rage heads are impacting with your field tips now doesn't mean squat. Your bow/arrow combination is still slightly out of tune and your arrows are still not entering the target perfectly straight and you are wasting KE (in flight as well as at the target) that could be used to push the arrow through the animal and break bones.
Of course this is all assuming that your arrows are properly spined and your bow is set up properly.
#2. Have you bothered to spin your arrows with broadheads attached to make sure that the broadhead is in perfect alignment with the arrow shaft? If not then you are wasting your time with everything else.
#3. If your braodhead tipped arrows are consistently hitting in the same place in a nice tight group then all you have to do is move your rest in the direction of your field tipped arrows. In other words if your broadheads are impacting 3 inches high of your field tipped arrows then move your rest down in 1/32" increments until they group together.
#4. Just because your Rage heads are impacting with your field tips now doesn't mean squat. Your bow/arrow combination is still slightly out of tune and your arrows are still not entering the target perfectly straight and you are wasting KE (in flight as well as at the target) that could be used to push the arrow through the animal and break bones.
Of course this is all assuming that your arrows are properly spined and your bow is set up properly.
Note on the #4... Using a mechanical just b/c its the only thing that will fly well is like trying to put a band-aid on a knife wound. Just covering up the problem and not really fixing it. You should take a look into the easton tuning guide, and learn how to bh tune your bow, where it will shoot ANY bh out of your bow. You will be much better off in the long run, and it will mean that your bow is really in tune...
Derek
#28
tuning broad heads to field points is not tuning your just making them fly the same.
Tuning would be bare shaft tuning and or paper tuning. Once you do that and then find that broadheads are not flying the same becomes a problem, why would one paper tune only to move things around to get broaheads to fly the same, your just erasing your tuning.
Sometimes they will never fly the same. then you either tune with broadheads or shoot mech.
But for me a drop away fixes all that. I never tuned anybow with a drop away.
Set it up properly with square and center point and start shooting field or broad heads.
Why anyone would choose a biscuit is beyond me, for 20+ years archers have tuned to keep any arrow or fletching contact upon flight now all of a sudden people are choosing full contact rests on arrow flight which is nonsense.
Tuning would be bare shaft tuning and or paper tuning. Once you do that and then find that broadheads are not flying the same becomes a problem, why would one paper tune only to move things around to get broaheads to fly the same, your just erasing your tuning.
Sometimes they will never fly the same. then you either tune with broadheads or shoot mech.
But for me a drop away fixes all that. I never tuned anybow with a drop away.
Set it up properly with square and center point and start shooting field or broad heads.
Why anyone would choose a biscuit is beyond me, for 20+ years archers have tuned to keep any arrow or fletching contact upon flight now all of a sudden people are choosing full contact rests on arrow flight which is nonsense.
#29
tuning broad heads to field points is not tuning your just making them fly the same.
Tuning would be bare shaft tuning and or paper tuning. Once you do that and then find that broadheads are not flying the same becomes a problem, why would one paper tune only to move things around to get broaheads to fly the same, your just erasing your tuning.
Sometimes they will never fly the same. then you either tune with broadheads or shoot mech.
But for me a drop away fixes all that. I never tuned anybow with a drop away.
Set it up properly with square and center point and start shooting field or broad heads.
Why anyone would choose a biscuit is beyond me, for 20+ years archers have tuned to keep any arrow or fletching contact upon flight now all of a sudden people are choosing full contact rests on arrow flight which is nonsense.
Tuning would be bare shaft tuning and or paper tuning. Once you do that and then find that broadheads are not flying the same becomes a problem, why would one paper tune only to move things around to get broaheads to fly the same, your just erasing your tuning.
Sometimes they will never fly the same. then you either tune with broadheads or shoot mech.
But for me a drop away fixes all that. I never tuned anybow with a drop away.
Set it up properly with square and center point and start shooting field or broad heads.
Why anyone would choose a biscuit is beyond me, for 20+ years archers have tuned to keep any arrow or fletching contact upon flight now all of a sudden people are choosing full contact rests on arrow flight which is nonsense.
DO NOT TUNE TO PAPER,use paper to CHECK tune.If you have feildpoints and broadheads impacting the same,you should have a good tear.If not,you either torque the bow or have some type of problem withinn the bow.Maybe even bad arrows.
Paper is great but you must understand the info it feeds you and not just go adjusting the rest around to get a good tear.
I even use a bareshaft through paper at the beginning,then walk back,then on to group tuning (for target)or broadhead tuning for hunting.
I get bullet holes and bareshaft hit the same as fletched out to 20.
I agree about the WB,it is a pain when it comes to paper.
#30
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
Ive used mechanicals, but do not care for the penetration. Well, except for turkey. I feel too many people use mechanicals as a quick fix for tuning problems.