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broadhead v pratice point

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broadhead v pratice point

Old 08-26-2009, 06:51 AM
  #11  
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Jeff, when you have a field point, your feathers are doing most of the guiding and correcting. When you put a BH on, now you have introduced another planing varible.

There is no limit to accuracy.
I tend to give the archer the benefit of the doubt. If he's bare shafted his FP's.....and he's tuned....then there shouldn't be a discrepancy.

I don't think I'd be making nock point adjustments without bare shafting, FIRST.

Aren't we supposed to eliminate "issues"....one at a time? Why do so many compound shooters feel like they don't need to bare shaft?
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:21 AM
  #12  
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the question above about the weight of the points and broadheads is very important. If you are shoot a 100 grain practice point and 125 grain broadhead you will have some drop. I am not sure 5" but certianly some. It is very wise to practice with your broadheads when you practice. I also like to wear my face mask and hat to make sure nothing changes my shot. Most broadheads have a practice point included. If not just bite the bullet and use one of your hunting broadheads to practice with. it is a lot of walking to retrieve your arrow but it is well worth the effort. Confidence is everything when you draw back to shoot in the field. You have have to know without question that you are sighted in with the broadhead you are about to shoot. Good luck this season!
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:59 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by GMMAT View Post
I tend to give the archer the benefit of the doubt. If he's bare shafted his FP's.....and he's tuned....then there shouldn't be a discrepancy.

I don't think I'd be making nock point adjustments without bare shafting, FIRST.

Aren't we supposed to eliminate "issues"....one at a time? Why do so many compound shooters feel like they don't need to bare shaft?
Well, I am a huge advocate of bare shaft tuning as most know on here. But bare shaft is not the same as BH tuning. A bare shaft has 12-15gr less weight on the back, which makes the arrow appear weaker than the real arrow. Its a good place to start.

In all honesty, bareshaft is meant for finger shooters. But is good for compounders if you have no cam lean, and no nock travel. I find it useful for nock adjustments as you point out. But I don't live and breath bareshaft to make horizontal or spine adjustments.

But I am hunter first and foremost, and I need my BH's to go where I need them to go. Long distance BH tuning (~60 yards) is the utimate end to the tuning process. Target shooters will argue group tuning after that, but I have my limits.
 
Old 08-26-2009, 08:04 AM
  #14  
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both are 100gr, 8 arrows in about 8in area. I will try the adjustments and give them a try
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:21 AM
  #15  
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BC:

I use the nock position to tell me what I need to know (bare shafts). If I can get my bare shafts hitting....showing a "touch" weak....I know the feathers will take care of the rest. It's working, so far.

Bare shafting is also the place to set nock height.

Vanes/feathers correct TOO much for an archer to get a good read.
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:38 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by GMMAT View Post
BC:

Bare shafting is also the place to set nock height.

Vanes/feathers correct TOO much for an archer to get a good read.
Or long distance BH tuning is a place to set nock height. Unless one plans on hunting without feathers or vanes. I know I don't. But I am a hunter.
 
Old 08-26-2009, 08:45 AM
  #17  
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Think we are all going a bit in depth on this one. Jeff... If you dont advocate moving a nock, then he could even more easily move his rest a bit to experiment.

If your bh's are grouping with your fp's, then imo anyone is ready to hunt unless they are planning on taking 70yd shots. Then you may want to do the full process, but how many people REALLY need to spend eight hours setting up their bow??? Jmo

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Old 08-26-2009, 08:53 AM
  #18  
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I agree with Derek, try to keep it simple. I do a walk back tune. Start around 10 to 15 yards and tweak your rest till your BH's and FP's are hitting the same spot and keep moving back, making very slight adjustments along the way till your about 35 to 45 yards, depending on your comfortlevel. And leave it at that. Now if you don't get the results your looking for, thinking about moving your nocking point and other things (arrow stiffness and weight ect..) may come into play... Thats just my two cents. Good luck and let us know how it turns out
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:18 AM
  #19  
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Probably right, BC. Never thought about it that much.

I guess it's something I have to get over. With our bows (and I'm trying to figure out why it wouldn't be true with compounds), I think BH tuning should happen FIRST (after setting center shot nd nock height on compounds).

Several ways to skin a cat. Conceded.
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:40 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by GMMAT View Post
Probably right, BC. Never thought about it that much.

I guess it's something I have to get over. With our bows (and I'm trying to figure out why it wouldn't be true with compounds), I think BH tuning should happen FIRST (after setting center shot nd nock height on compounds).

Several ways to skin a cat. Conceded.
I think, the problem is we are trying to accomplish two things (spine and nocking point) with bare shaft and one does change another for us. You can have an arrow shooting high and being fine but shows a tad stiff the more you move nocking point down.

You can coorelate the two styles. But IMO, ulimately finger shelf shooting differs by compound rest shooting. Some like OL Ad**** and other notable trad shooters hates bareshafting.
 

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