Thinking on getting a compound bow what is a good starter?
 

I'm looking to get into using a compound bow and was wondering what is a good starter bow for myself? I'm 5'8 and in good shape.

ANY Mathews.

:poke:

Right now the best deal on the market is most likely the Hoyt Turbohawk.It has a module draw length adjustment and the best limbs in the buisness.They run about $500-$550(dependant on location) and there is a $50 rebate from Hoyt.


Of course,there are plenty of great bows on the market but imo,this one is hard to beat.


Just make sure you go to a good pro shop and get fitted and setup properly.

bear
 

look at the bear line of bows. you can get a bow that hangs with the best at a very affordable price. ive got the truth 2. it is a super smooth bow but is bears top of the line bow. its a lil expensive if you are just starting off. good luck.

I actually can't get it fitted at a pro shop because there isn't a place that sells bows where i live so i have to order it online. Is this going to be a problem? like is there much up kepp i will have too do that i can't do myself? Like with there being no pro shop, would it be a bad idea for me to even get a compound bow?

My 2 cents. Find a Pearson Z34. If you buy one used, you'll get an incredible deal and get an awesome bow for your money. Not many people are talking about them, but in my opinion they are some of the best bows on the market. They are smooth and they are fast. They are a great hunting bow and they are a great target bow. You can't go wrong.

X2 for the Hoyt Hawk series either Power,Super or Turbo. It isn't a bow you will grow out of either (meaning it is more then a starter bow).

what about what i said about not having a pro shop around? bow upkieep and stuff like that like fitting it to me and such

Stoop, you have to find out your draw length. Just take out a tape measure and pinch it between your thumb and pointer finger on your left hand. Pull the other part of the tape measure back with your right hand and anchor it to the right corner of your mouth. That is your draw length. At 5'8" and average length arms, you probably have a draw length of around 26-26.5 inches.

Once you have that, you can order a bow. Do not worry about spending $500+ dollars on a bow. If you have the money and want to, by all means go for it. If not, you can order a good bow for $200-$300. I bought my Reflex Excursion off E-bay 5 seasons ago for under $200 brand new. It has killed deer just like any other bow.

Measure your draw length first, then come back on here and tell us. I would suggest pulling between #50-#60 pounds on your first bow.

I would recommend a hoyt.

Are there any bow shops near by ?

Even if it is a 2 hour drive, DO it, at least to get fitted for the correct DL and shoot a couple bows.

I would look for a single cam bow @ 60#, with an adjustable DL cam on it

Single cams need very little tinkering.

I wouldn't worry to much about speed.

There has to be somebody on PEI that shoots a bow, SEARCH HIM OUT.

I think the tricky part is getting the bow set up right the first time - timing - setting up the rest - setting up the peep and such.

The Martin MOAB comes to mind:
Single cam
Smooth draw
Decent speed
Easy to tune
Reasonable price
Outstanding Customer Service
You don't need a bow Press to work on it

It has a lot to offer to somebody in your situation.

Plan "B"

I know several folks that have bows from these guys and had nothing but good to say about the experience.

They offer several good packages with everything you need, soup to nuts.

Comes pre tuned, arrows cut to length, quiver, BHs,sights ........

http://www.huntersfriend.com/

Their guarantee:

your new bow is guaranteed to fit you correctly and be shooting properly from the very first shot you make.

Hope this helps

Leo

so hold the tape measure like i would be holding a bow, and if i hold the bow with my left hand does that mean i'm looking for a left handed bow?

You are going to get everyones favorite mine would be Bowtech, however go into a bow shop. You know what kind of money you want to spend, let them show you what they have and fit you for a bow. Many bow shops have used bows on hand, after all archery may not be for you and you don't want to sink a boat load of money on a bow. (archery is expensive)

shop around and see what feels best, if you're new to archery, they are all going to feel awkward at first.

I thought it was just expensive to get into it(buying the gear) but once you have the gear i don't really know what els it is i would have to buy.

PS i shoot a excaliber equinox atm, but when i want to shoot targets i find i get board fast simply because of all the prep time too shoot one arrow.

that site almost seems to good to be true, i called them up and they were super nice also. What do you feel is the best setup they sell as in a full package.

Before you spend the money, you need to decide whether to shoot right or left handed. You can't simply decide this by your stronger arm being the one you draw with, you need to find out which eye is dominant. Some left eye dominant people have no problem shooting righty, and some do. I had a comfort issue, scrapped my right handed bow and bought a left hand Parker Wildfire. From that point on, even though I was pulling less weight, I felt comfortable and could hold on my target better.

As I said, some people don't have eye dominance issues causing problems, you may not. But, it's something to look into before you spend the money and a bow arrives at your door.

whatever you can afford and shoots well for you.

+1 The turbohawk is a top of the line bow for a mid-range price. I don't even need a new bow and I'm really considering one, because it's such a steal.

hmmmmmmmmm....shouldn't this say...imo. Because I know many people that feel that Barnsdales are the best. And now Strothers is building something even better than Barnsdales, or so the story goes.:lmao:

Well i'm right handed and i'm right eye dominant, so i would hold the bow with my left hand right and pull back with my right, so i would need a right handed bow correct?

yea..u need to to go to a pro shop, have them measure your draw length, teach you proper form, and shoot some bows bro

it will cost me around 200$ too drive to where there is a bow shop, i did call them and they seem kinda steep for prices, $585 for the pse stinger ready to shoot package which cabelas.ca sells for $499, or even that link that other guy posted has some really great deals. I dunno if that 200$ is worth getting a half inch here or there on my draw.

That's right.

You need to go to a pro shop regardless of costs involved and get taught how to shoot a bow correctly and measured right for your draw length. Otherwise, you will waste time and $$ and you will not enjoy archery. Then get on Archerytalk and buy a nice top of the line bow used, as many of us trade new bows constantly liking the latest greatest out there.

Untill they have a fail rate less than Hoyt's % wise,I don't think it is opinion.Well,Strother has a lower fail rate but they don't have any on the market as of yet.:biggrin:

Hoyt limbs are PROVEN,Barnsdale makes good limbs but they don't have the track record that Hoyt's do.

I would still advise going to a shop and letting them fix you up.A 1/2" here or there does make a difference and might even save you money in the long run.Not only draw length but poundage makes a huge difference as well.After you have gotten into the game and have some experience,then buying internet bows might be a great idea but for now,you need to get setup right to save HOURS of aggrivation.

but isn't there some bows that you can change the draw length yourself with just a alan key/wrench? Wouldn't that be ideal for me so i could get it just right if i don't go to the pro shop?

Check out the Diamond Stud. Great feel, nice grip, light, pretty quick, comes with string supressor, draw length adjusts 24"-30" by rotating the module, good price just over $500. Go to a proshop if you can and get it there.

Yes,the bow I recommended can be changed via module but you still don't know what is the right draw length.Trial and error might get you there but being new,how will you know what is right and what is wrong?



If you don't go to a shop,you will probably be better served with a rotating module.

I understand your delimma.Most of us that are saying go to a shop have been doing this for YEARS and we went through lots of headaches getting where we are now.Atleast you have the internet where we can help when you do get your bow.


Good luck

I actually just shot some bows today and would consider myself almost a beginner(havent shot in years) the smoothest and easiest bows to shoot for me were the Mathews Drenalin, Switchback and Bowtech Admiral. I shot the switchback a couple years ago but it was the smoothest bow Ive ever shot. I would look into some "easy to shoot" bows like these. Go to the pro shop and try them and any other you see. The more bows you shoot the better the chances of finding the "perfect bow" are. Check ebay for some also. Good deals on top-end bows.

well i did the measure thing i think my draw is 27.5, but a bow that is easy to adjust, is that stud ez to adjust? whats a string suppressor?

Pse stinger!!!!!!!!

The Diamond Stud is super easy to adjust draw length (comes with instructions), it has the rotating module. You will need a set of allen wreches to change it. A string supressor stops the string and keeps it quiet. The finish is really nice too, Diamond has a finish called "In Velvet" this year.

PSE Brute you can change the draw without a bow press 499 for a bow thats RTS and its a good shooting bow as well and very easy to tune bow...............

Hmm the diamond stud was one of the ones i was looking at on that site that guy posted huntersfriend. But i guess i still don't know my draw weight, do you need a bow press to change the draw weight?

You don't need a bowpress...just a set of allen wrenches. But, you need to be sure that both limbs are set equally. Peak weight will give you the best performance, but you may want to shoot it at a lighter #age. One easy way to do this is to turn them up to peak weight and then crank each limb down equally, that way you know they are set equally. But why am I giving advice...I am not a veteran bowhunter...just a newb myself.

You need to know what range you will need to be in as well.Bows come in 10# draw weight ranges most of the time.If you get a 70# bow it will be adjustable from 60-70#'s.

I would guess 60-70 seems the most popular. You still need to adjust both, even on a single cam?

If you are asking about adjusting poundage, yes.

Browning Usually 4" of draw Addjustment with no bow press needed !
They will run 27" - 30" in 1/2" incraments so you are actually getting 8 differant addjustments All you need is a allen wrench !
But this is JMO

I have the Mirage and love it killed 3 deer last year with it , it is a 2007 modle bought it off Ebay Brand new in Box $300 bought it last year 2008

Just because the 60-70 is most popular means nothing.It is what can you comfortably pull when it is cold outside.You can get it done with much less than 70.I hunted last year at 53#'s because of a bad shoulder and killed a great buck.I am back up to my normal 58# this year.


My daughter will be using 36#'s and my son will be using 40#'s.