natimage

I used to shoot cheap carbon express arrows that have 5" helical feathers. I decided they would suck for hunting if it rained and they're just too hard to protect all the time. I bought some gold tip arrows that have vanes and today when I was shooting them some would fly perfectly straight then others I would see in flight look like they kick out to the left then straighten back up, my groups weren't nearly as good as with my other arrows, but they weren't ridiculously bad either. Is there any way to fix this? getting it refletched? Changing tip weight? Anything?

MeanV2

You really can't beat feathers for controlling an arrow, and rain problems are blown out of proportion. Carbon Express Maxima series of arrows have been the best all carbon arrow I've shot.

There are a lot of things that go into making a great arrow, spine, proper component assembly, adequate fletching, as well as adequate FOC.

Post up specifics and I'm sure you'll get some Good advice.

Dan

natimage

The arrows I'm talking about are 29" Gold Tip 5570 Hunter Arrows with 3 4" offset vanes . I use 100 grain field points. My bow is set at 56lbs and have 28 inch draw length. I'm right on the edge of the arrow spine recommendation but I didn't want it underspined so that's why I went with the 5570s. Any advice? Will blazer vanes be better than the 4" ones? Or would putting 4" feathers on help a lot? I'd like to shoot blazers but if they won't perform well for me that may not be in my best interest.

mobow

Have you retuned your bow since the switch? Changing arrows will change the way the bow shoots, so it may be a tuning issue. It may also be a vane clearance issue, or....more likely, you're torquing the bow more on some shots than others.

niehenke

Not sure but I think I know what my problem is. I have experienced the same. It happens only once or twice while out shooting. I think that I am hitting the fletching with my face placing some side force on the rear of the arrow. I could be crazy but maybe I will attempt to recreated it to see if I am crazy or not. Next time you shoot, see if you are digging your peep in too anchor too deep.

MGH_PA

That was my initial thought when I read it. The fact that some of the arrows are tailing, and some are not (assuming all else is equal, arrow weight, length, etc).

natimage

I'll pay attention to see if I am torquing it but I didn't notice it in the beginning then it seemed to be happening more and more. At it's peak it probably happened about 70% of the time I shoot an octane hostage rest if that could have something to do with it. I haven't retuned my bow, and to be honest I would have no idea how, I just got it a couple weeks ago and this is my first bow ever. How do I know if it's tuned properly? If it isn't are there a few simple things I can do to get it there?

BGfisher

Tuning is paramount to getting good arrow flight. Sounds like you're new and need to learn stuff. Maybe you got lucky and your first set of arrows shot OK. When you change something like fletching the dynamic spine and balance of the arrow can be different.

As for tuning? You need to learn it. One of the best guides I've ever come across is Easton Archery's Tuning Guide. You can find a copy at www.huntersfriend.com or at www.bowjackson.com.

It does a good job of explaining such simple things as how to install and set up rests up to and including broadhead tuning. All in fairly simple terminology, I might add. You learn the lingo and then the process and you'll be on your way to happier shooting days.

rybohunter

1. 5" helicals are going to REALLY stabilize an arrow. So if you were having minor issues they may have been masked by the fletch.
2. How'd you get 5" helicals thru a hostage rest?
3. Check that all your new arrows are indexed properly and you aren't getting contact with the rest.
What was the spine of the old arrows that shot good?