I played with this too...........and this is what I came up with. I set the rope/strap around the tree around head high. Then adjust it so when I turn to my right, it hangs lower than it acutally should. But when I draw, I bring my right arm up and OVER the strap that's hanging down, and that way I'm free to draw, an still enough to move back to my left if I have to. There is no easy way, but thats about the best way I've found in that shooting situation.

Something that i have always done is use two quick clip rings (sorta like d rings) that are rated for 425 pounds. That way I can always leave the strap that goes around the tree on the tree. I have the same problem in a few of my stands, so what I can do real quick is reach up behind and unclip one of the clips. At that point, the harness isnt attatched but as soon as the shot is done I can clip back in. Only takes a second to do and is so much easier than having to deal with the straps every time I get into the tree.

MOBO, I lot like you, I used to get all bound up in certain angles. My cheap fix was... I've bought enough stands to have a few of those strap type harnesses laying around that come free with stands. I cut the part that connects to the tree with the Sewn in "shock absorbers" off and used the loops to attach it to my existing Safety vest, tree strap. with the added 2 feet or so if I put it like forehead high on the tree I can shoot to any side without binding.

I hook the tether up at just above waist high and wear a vest harness. That way the strap doesn't get in my way.

Mo--you just need to add some extra length to your strap. I have an extra strap from another harness and just attached it to my current harness. It gives me an extra couple of feet to spin and move w/o obstruction.

I've got an old Summit set up w/ the prussic, and first, I don't remember how to use it....just run the tag end through the loop, w/ the prussic against the tree? Also, I don't see how that will give me any length.

Coop, I tried what you suggest, but it pulls tight when I sit down. I think I'm gonna just bust one section that is sewn together and make it a bit longer....That should work.

Use the summit rope and make your "tether" (the part you attach to the tree) ANY length you want to.

You need to understand, though.....there's a price to pay for being safe....and it's worth it. There may be a shot opportunity lost. I've never had it happen....but I'm sure it could, some day.

The main rope has a loop on one end and a knot on the other.

Loop the rope around the tree, and run the knot end through the loop end, pulling all the slack out(including prussic knot) and cinch tight against tree....this leaves you with about 3-4 feet of rope hanging free with a prussic knot on it....now clip the carabiner on the end of the tether on your harness to the loop on the prussic knot and you are tied in...slide the prussic closer to the tree for less slack in your tether, or farther toward the knot end of the rope hanging free for more slack...

it can add up to 3-4 feet to your tether length from tree, but isnt needed. I tie mine about mid back height when standing in stand, and leave the prussic almost at the tree with hardly any extra line out. Leaves plenty of room for shooting any angle and it doesnt get in way, if it does...slide down knot to create more slack.

Any additional advice for folks who try to use this type of harness and normally face the tree instead of the other way? My father tried these harnesses for the first time after I set him up with one. He took it off mid hunt because there was no easy way to hunt facing the tree with out the strap in the way. I figured there has to be other hunters doing it. Advice?

Certainly. That's why I don't want any excess slack. The less distance I fall, the better. That's why I'm messing around with it's positioning, there's got to be a way to do this. As it is right now......There is NO WAY I can shoot to my right. Can't do it. Yes, there is a price to pay for being safe. But giving up 90* of shooting is unnacceptable.