if you have not downloaded the Easton tuning manual. Do so it has lots of good tuning tips. it can be downloaded from Easton archery's website

how do you paper tune i have heard of it but never was taught how or told was it was...
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i just got this hoyt that i shoot and it was brand new so shouldnt it be tuned already?
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Like I said before if you download this tuning guide it should be able to answer your questions. Here is a link to download it:
http://home.att.net/~sajackson/tuning_guide.html

When we say tune, it pertains to your particular setup. Your arrows, broadheads your draw length and your draw weight and your shooting style. you and I may have the exact same setup, but my shooting style is a bit different and cause me to do some different things tuning wise.

As far as your bow being tuned from the factory, it is NOT tuned. It is in spec. but NOT tuned. ONLY you can tune your bow. No one else can do it for you since like I stated before shooting styles vary.

Just take some time to read through the easton tuning guide. Trust me it should explain things very well for you. Also I suggest printing it out and keeping it very handy. Trust me you will find yourself refering to it many times.

Lining vanes up with your broadhead blades is a waste of time! IMO

Dan

Like stated if your bow is tuned right there will be very little difference with broadhead flight. The only time i have ever had this to be true was when i used to shoot straight fletch back in the late 80's. I had to align my three blade with the fletch to get good flight. It was a trend back then and i dont recomend straight fletch.

I believe it to be awaste of time also, if you only have one hunting arrow.
How canblade/vane alignment be correct for all shaft lengths andall vane offsetsetc?
There would have to be an exact position for every set-up with shaft rotationbeing examined wouldn't there?
Ireckon ifeveryone on this site aligned blades with vanes andshot through paperthen watched a slow motionvideo with 100 frames per second or so (don't quote me, I don't know a thing about photography but you get the point) the chances of everyones vanes passing through the same slit cut by the blade (cutting the same path)would bepretty slim.
I can seehoweverthat people would align them for the purpose of having all broadheads aligned consistantly the same way on all shafts-be it inline with vanes or not.

Who knows, but that's how I see it anyway.

I've read before, that an arrow going 250 fps is making one complete turn every 3 feet. The broadhead blades and the fletches are not going to cut through the same piece of air, so it doesn't matter if they are aligned. I've had good luck with a paper tuned bow and Slick Trick standards with Blazers or 3'' feathers. The Blades were not aligned with the fletch, cause there were 4 blades and 3 fletches. With the same bow and arrows the Muzzy 4 blade did not fly so good. Some broadheads fly better than others. The more or bigger blades you have, the more the broadhead will try to steer the arrow. Think of broadhead blades as fletching on the front of the arrow that competes with the fletching on the rear. A compact head offers less surface area and reduces the chance of wind plane.

That can't be "the rule". The rate of rotation per feet will vary depending on amount of helical/offset, the more helical, the faster spin rate, and obviosuly the less helical/offset, the slower the rotational rate.

I'd be curioushuntinman23, do your arrows with broadheads group? or are they all over the place?

Well if it doesn’t help than my guess would be that it could hurt either, right? It doesn’t take any extra time to align them up so I’d suggest trying it to see if it helps your set up. Be sure to spin them to see if you need to tune your broad heads. My bow guy made up his own jig for tuning broad heads and it one slick pieces of equipment.My broad headfight before and after him tuning my arrows was very noticable. I had arrow tips / inserts that were so off you should have seen it without put the micrometer to it.