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RE: Atsko put to the test
ORIGINAL: kingvjack So, I guess I'm the only one who doesn't wash his camo in anything with UV brightners in it? I just use baking soda, hang em off the swingset out back, then stuff em in a ziplock bag with scent wafers till opening day.... that way they are dulled, and scent free. |
RE: Atsko put to the test
ORIGINAL: DropTine249 I NEVER wash my camo in regular detergent. I get my new camo in the house. I have my washer and dryer washed with baking soda and scent killer. I put the camo in with scent eliminating detergent and baking sodaand cover scent(regular camo, scent lok- no cover scent). I was the camo on the longest cycle. I wash my hands in scent elimination soap and transfer the camo into the dryer with a cover scent wafer and cover scent dryer sheet(again, no cover scent for scent lok). When finshed, I have a carbon bag that I put the camo in to transfer out to my shed. I then, with washed and cover scent hands, place the camo into either my scent lok closet or washed out rubbermaid container with a scent wafer and pine needles. NEVER get winded. I am going to start to add some UV removing soap to my washing process. |
RE: Atsko put to the test
Not to try and sound like an arse but if you are going to test it and post it then you should probably follow their directions.
You aren't suppose to wash it in a UV brightning detergent (Tide)before you apply the UV killer. If you read the directions it is a two step process. First youmust wash your clothes in sport wash and then apply the UV killer to eleminate any remaining UV brightners. : First wash garment in Sport-Wash. Scent-Free Sport-Wash rinses 100% removing all traces of old soap residue, grease, oil, dirt, and sizing that would prevent U-V-Killer from forming a bond with the fabric. Other soaps do not rinse out and they leave behind residue. Sport-Wash is safe for all fabrics and dyes. Spray Dry Garments. Spray till surface is covered. Imagine you are applying a color and don't want the former color to show thru. Brushing with a small brush will make coverage more uniform. A ultraviolet (UV) light can reveal "missed" spots even while U-V-Killer is still wet. U-V-Killer extends the life of fabric five times from sun rot. Treated garments may be worn when completely dry, but 72 hours of adequate ventilation is required for the bond to reach full durability and for the garment to be scent free. Re-washing, waterproofing, and cover scent applications should be delayed for this 72 hours. The U-V-Killer treatment is designed to be permanent, and on most fabrics it will endure for the life of the garment. A single washing in commercial detergents, fabric softeners, and or "Color Safe" bleach (while not removing the treatment) will render the U-V-Killer useless by depositing new brightener dyes on top of it. Always wash a load of non-hunting clothes in Sport-Wash prior to washing your treated camo & blaze orange in order to remove residual brighteners from your washer and dryer. It is recommended that you confirm the absence of brighteners each season using a UV light. |
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RE: Atsko put to the test
ORIGINAL: bigbulls Not to try and sound like an arse but if you are going to test it and post it then you should probably follow their directions. You aren't suppose to wash it in a UV brightning detergent (Tide)before you apply the UV killer. If you read the directions it is a two step process. First youmust wash your clothes in sport wash and then apply the UV killer to eleminate any remaining UV brightners. : First wash garment in Sport-Wash. Scent-Free Sport-Wash rinses 100% removing all traces of old soap residue, grease, oil, dirt, and sizing that would prevent U-V-Killer from forming a bond with the fabric. Other soaps do not rinse out and they leave behind residue. Sport-Wash is safe for all fabrics and dyes. Spray Dry Garments. Spray till surface is covered. Imagine you are applying a color and don't want the former color to show thru. Brushing with a small brush will make coverage more uniform. A ultraviolet (UV) light can reveal "missed" spots even while U-V-Killer is still wet. U-V-Killer extends the life of fabric five times from sun rot. Treated garments may be worn when completely dry, but 72 hours of adequate ventilation is required for the bond to reach full durability and for the garment to be scent free. Re-washing, waterproofing, and cover scent applications should be delayed for this 72 hours. The U-V-Killer treatment is designed to be permanent, and on most fabrics it will endure for the life of the garment. A single washing in commercial detergents, fabric softeners, and or "Color Safe" bleach (while not removing the treatment) will render the U-V-Killer useless by depositing new brightener dyes on top of it. Always wash a load of non-hunting clothes in Sport-Wash prior to washing your treated camo & blaze orange in order to remove residual brighteners from your washer and dryer. It is recommended that you confirm the absence of brighteners each season using a UV light. |
RE: Atsko put to the test
Wow.. some really indepth ways.. crazy.. i just goto my hunting spot.. a month before or so, and pick up leaves and pine cones and throw the top layers (jacket,shirt, pants) in a big rubber maid tupperware thingy from home depot..
i went 2 for 2 on a 3 day trip last year.. which was the first year i did that. all the previous years i was 0 for 0 cuz i never saw oungotz. then again i was on state land and where i was hunting was like a festival in the woods. but.. the land i did hunt this past season no one had seen or shot any deer in 5 years there anyways.. so.. the leaves and pinecones did the trick.. as well as the cigarette in my mouth when i shot my 200+ # deerz |
RE: Atsko put to the test
The instructions for Atsko UV Killer clearly state that the garment must first be washed in a UV brightenerfree detergent(preferably their own) before the garment is treated. Washing it in Tide was a mistake since it locks in the brighteners and thereforenullifies the effect of the UV Killer. When I applied it to a new set of snow camo I first thoroughly cleaned out the drum of the washer with Sport Wash, then washed the camo in Sport Wash only and checked them with a blacklight, then applied the UV Killer as directed and rechecked them. White will always flouresce slightly, but the UV Killer noticably dulled the glow, especially the blue. A freshly washed blaze ballcap also dulled noticablyafter it was sprayed with UV Killer.
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RE: Atsko put to the test
I have a question, was the garment just sprayed with the Atsko treatment after being washed with Tide or was it washed in a non-UV brightened detergent AND sprayed?
If it was sprayed only, the results aren't perfect, but not bad either. If it was washedwith non-UV brightened detergent and then sprayed the results are disappointing. |
RE: Atsko put to the test
I simply run my camo through a basic wash cycle with baking soda, take outside and air dry. I never use the dryer for anything. Beats things up too much. Then I put my garments in a GIANT zip-loc bag if I'm going away to hunt. Otherwise, my cloths stay hung up outsidein the fresh air until I go hunting.I repeat this process throughout the season.
Oh yea, I ALWAYS use Scent Killer (unscented).;) |
RE: Atsko put to the test
ORIGINAL: kevin1 The instructions for Atsko UV Killer clearly state that the garment must first be washed in a UV brightenerfree detergent(preferably their own) before the garment is treated. Washing it in Tide was a mistake since it locks in the brighteners and thereforenullifies the effect of the UV Killer. When I applied it to a new set of snow camo I first thoroughly cleaned out the drum of the washer with Sport Wash, then washed the camo in Sport Wash only and checked them with a blacklight, then applied the UV Killer as directed and rechecked them. White will always flouresce slightly, but the UV Killer noticably dulled the glow, especially the blue. A freshly washed blaze ballcap also dulled noticablyafter it was sprayed with UV Killer. http://www.atsko.com/articles/clothing-care/washing-acu-army.html |
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