western outdoors

I've been trying to paper tune my new bow. Bow is a single cam set at 65 lb draw weight, 29" draw, IBO speed is up to 318 fps (I don't actually know what it is shooting). I've been testing many different arrows with length of 28" bare shaft and 29" with nock. I've found an arrow that paper tunes the best with my bow, but it weighs less than all of the other arrows I've been trying. With 100 grain tip, it weighs 360 total(most of the other arrows were closer to 405). I hear you get more speed with the lighter arrow, but you also sacrifice kinetic energy. So my question is, is the 360 grain arrow going to be sufficient enough for penetration, etc. for elk with ranges out to50 yards?Or would I be better off to sacrificea little on the paper tuning, and go with a heavier arrow?I also hunt with mechanicals if that makes a difference.

brucelanthier

What is the actual spine rating of the arrows you have been testing? There are many arrows that could be heavier that should tune with your bow just fine. Personally, if I were going elk hunting at ranges of 60yds and in I would have a heavier arrow (than 360gr)with a high FOC but that isn't the only way to go, arrowwise.

MeanV2

I agree with Bruce! You probably should try to shoot an arrow at least 400 grains. Don't get to hung up on paper tuning. There are too many ways to get false readings. Walk back tuning, bare shaft tuning, as well as Broadhead tuning are much more important IMHO.

Dan

AR Bowhunter

Somewhere a little over 400 gr would be nice.

Dubbya

Paper tuning IMO, is a waste of time. I stronly recommend (as MeanV mentioned) bareshaft, broadhead, and walk back tuning.

You DEFINITELY need to be shooting at the very least 400gr. if you plan on shooting elk.

I guess Easton took their tuning guide off the website. If you want a copy, PM me and I'll send it to you.

twildasin

My shop owner shoots his Alleigence with a 300 gr. arrow total weight and kills Caribou every year...Pass thru's. as a matter of fact the one he shot last year was 90 yards! You will kill them no problem at 360gr. Im shooting the same set up threw my General and would not hesitate shooting animals (elk,deer,moose,bear...) with my 300gr arrow! When hit where they should be they will be dead!

western outdoors

Thanks for all of your replies. I think that I may finally have things figured out on this bow. I originally took the bow back to the proshop where I bought it and told them it wasn't tuning how it did when I first bought it. They twisted one of the yokes by eyeballing it and said it was good, despite I couldn't get it to paper tune anymore. At that point they basically said the problem was me, and didn't want much more to do with me. So after a few visits to a couple of shops, the only arrow that I could get to tune perfectly was that 360 grain arrow.After some of your replies, I was hesitantto buy that arrow. So Ifinally had some good guys at Cabelas actually do something for me. They installed the bow plane laser and found my idler was leaning. So they added a few twists to one of the yokes (not sure if the same one the pro shop messed with). Shot through paper again with several different spines. Now that lighter spined 360 grain arrow was tearing, and the heavier 400 and 340 spines started shooting bullets or at least close to it. So now I'm back to several arrow options again asopposed to one. I'm also starting to think you guys are probably right about the paper tuning thing. Although better throughpaper, I started group tuning with an arrow that wasn't paper tuning perfectly. I shot it at both 20 and 30 yards at a targetmaybethe size of abaseball. I was able to stack all of my arrows inside of that target. Thatis good enough for me. Just wanted to thank you all for your feedback. Also, kudos to the guys at Cabelas for actually taking the time to help me. I can think of another pro shop that won't see my business anymore, however.

jdbowhunter

For what it is worth, your main concerns should be accuracy and kinetic energy. If the 360 grain arrow is spined properly and is very accurate, you will have enough kinetic energy to kill anything you hunt. I have tested many arrows with a good chronograph to check the difference in kinetic energy (light vs heavy). If you do not change the poundage on your bow the kinetic energy will be around 1 additional foot pound of kinetic energy with the heavier arrow. It really boils down to: go heavier and lose speed, go lighter and gain speed. However, on long shots the heavier arrows will maintain energy more efficiently than a light set up. I have read that we as bowhunters should have at least 40 foot pounds for deer and 50 foot pounds for elk. I, personally recommend 50 foot pounds for deer and 60 foot pounds for elk. With you poundage and draw length, you should have no problems getting close to 70 foot pounds of kinetic energy. The formula is speed x speed x weight of arrow in grains divided by 450,240 equals foot pounds of kinetic energy. Good hunting and don't get too caught up in the technical bs.

gplant

Try this out.It will tell you what you should get with what ever setup you put in.GOOD LUCK!!!

www.backcountrybowhunting.com/articles/tools.php
It doesnt want to come up but that is the address.

wingchaser_labs

Very true. It doesnt matter what weight of arrow you are shooting the KE will be the same. Its simple physics. You bow has a certain amount of stored energy and will throw any arrow with relatively the same KE outta the gate. However the down range KE is the key with arrow weight. This is where you may think about using the heavier arrow. I'm currently shooting 352gr arrows out of my Ally at 315fps at 70 lbs dwwith 78fp of KE. That is plenty good for me so I will prolly stick with them but ya never know. WCL