Checking for wobble and aligning the blades is all I have done in the past when shooting a fixed blade BH.

If you are confident you bow is tuned right just shoot your bh's and see what happens. If you get bad results before I moved anything I might try and get a couple of differnt bh's to try and see if they all shot inconsistently. If they are all inconsistent I would recheck the tune of the bow and if it was still good I would evealuate my options.

Option 1: Broadheads are flying good and grouping just don't have the same point of impact as my field points. I would simply adjust the sight.

Option 2: Broadheads are not flying good and or not grouping. I would either retunewith broadheads or switch broadheads.

Sidenote: I know you love Muzzy's and I think they are very strong broadheads but they always gave me a fit when tuning, granted that was many years ago so it could have had a little to do with me as well.

New, I love Muzzy, bought Im not loyal to any brand. I will shoot the best brand that decreases my headache!! I have been interested in these Slick Tricks, they look good and I have not seen anyone complain. I also like the looks and the dynamics of the NAP Hell razors too>>

Same here, if they spin true and I get the feathers lined up (or very close) the arrow should be good. You could shoot them though the paperlike you mentioned and see what the hole looks like and if not perfect tweak your bow a little. That would be part of option 2 above.

VA, I've never had to do any of those things. With a good quality head (not some bargain basement crap).

I just screw'em on till they are tight, of course you have to make sure it's a good arrow shaft. (straight with good fletching). It's my belief if your bow is tuned and centershot is achieved. Then they'll fly where you aim'em.

If you really wanna get dialed in a nice helical seems to make broadheads fly much better than standard straight fletching especially when any wind is involved.

Before tuning for broadheads I do papertune but not like most. I will shoot a bare shaft threw paper at 5 then 10 yards. Bare shaft should be weighted the same as a fletched arrow. I wrap a few pieces of tape around the back since I shoot a dropaway. I'll get the left and right close but will concentrate more on the vertical to get it perfect.

After that I do walk back tuning only. I'll zero it in at 10 yards then shoot it at 40 then 60 yards (or less depending on your max effective range). If I need to make an ajustment (arrow rest), I'll rezero it at 10 yards and repeat the process until I'm hitting the same left and right.

Now for broadheads I'll do the same thing. Verify zero at 10 yards and then go shoot at 40 and 60. At this point make only very small adjustments to fine tune left and right.

Vertical should be good. If not, you could go back and shoot a bare shaft through paper to verify you have no vertical tare. If that's good and arrow flight looks perfect, I'd just make a minor adjustment to the sight pin and call it good.

At this point all you have to do is fine tune your sight pins for the other yardages.

I have had really good success with,
(Trophy Ridge) Rocket Steelhead 100's(M)
(Trophy Ridge) Rocket Ultimate Steel & Ultimate Titanium 100's(FB)
Grim Reaper Razorcuts 100 (M)
G5 Montec 100's(FB)
G5 Tekan II 100's (M)

I am going to try the new Undertaker head as well from Trophy Ridge. My buddies and I will usually all get a couple of different packs of BH's each that way we can all try out 6 or 8 different heads and we only have to spend about $50-$70 each but we have a good variety to experiment with and then buy what works best. I ask guys at the shopI hear talking about what they used to shoot if they have any old ones in good condition I could try as well, you would be surprised how many peopleswitch heads every season or twice a seaon for some. I have sampled quite a few like this. Matter of fact if you want to try some of the Montec G5's or RocketUltimateSteels I could probably send you a couple.

you can tune a piano, but you can't tun-a-fish.
I need to stop this, I think I need counciling...

Maybe a hunting intervention!!!

Thanks New, I will look into it!!!

You are not suposed to paper tune with a broad head. You broad head tune with a broad head. That is like taking a step backward. Paper tuning tells you what the arrow is doing right as it leaves the bow. It is the first step in basic tuning, not the end. In order to broad head tune you need more distance to see how the blades on the head will effect flight.

There are also different camps on broad head tuning. Some strive to get the fixed blades to hit as close to the field points as they can, others look for the most accuracy and will forgive a few inches of difference between the two. If you don't have enough fletching, enough FOC or close enough spine to what you need you will play hell trying to get them to come together. Crappy arrows don't help either.

Paul