FAT Arrows?
 

I know some of you hardcore 3D guys shoot the "Fat" arrows. Which brand do you suggest for 3D? Do you also hunt with these? (Kinda figure you don't....but we're in the bowHUNTING forum;)).

Do you have to change your setup at all to use these shafts? I have to change the orientation of my cock vane in switching from x-Weave arrows to a/c/c 3-71's due to the extra thickness of the a/c/c's. The cock vane, if left vertical, has the other vane interfering with my cable.

So....which fat shafts.....and what's an average cost?

RE: FAT Arrows?
 

Jeff:

I'd like to know more about what draw weight you will be shooting, what class, and if you plan to shoot ASA or IBO before I would recommend something.

I've shot Pro 22's, X-Cutters, and 30X Pros for 3D over the last 2 years and all shot really really well for me. I let my bow setup and the class I'm shooting in decide what shaft I'm gonna use and then set it up appropriately.

RE: FAT Arrows?
 

Matt:

Hunter class....and I don't know enough, right now, to speak intelligently about it. I'm going to shoot whatever anyone around here is sanctioning. I honestly don't know the difference in the two (and others). Shoot I went to last Summer was...targets to 40yds (hunter class). I think I finished 19th. First one, ever, outside. First one, ever, at yardages I didn't know pretty darned well.

I'm gonna shoot a couple times a month outdoors....and at least once a month at the shoots my shop owner puts on, indoors.

I wish I knew more to tell you.

RE: FAT Arrows?
 

What draw weight are you going to shoot for 3D?

My suggestion to you would be an arrow setup for IBO. An IBO HC legal arrow can also be shot in ASA legally, but not vice versa. ASA allows you to use short fletch, and glue in points.....2x things that can also help save substantial amount on overall arrow weight, but won't help you a bit if you want to shoot HC in the IBO. IBO requires you to have 4" fletch, and screw in points.

My IBO Hunter Class arrow combination took a few years to get perfect......but this is what I would shoot and would be legal in any hunter class for any major 3D organizations. You will probably have to slow it down for ASA since you are speed limited at 280fps there, but that is easy enough with a heavier head and GT's insert add on weights.

[ul][*]GoldTip Pro 22's[*]Black 4" Low Profile Bohning X-Vanes (same material as blazers and lighter than their regular 4")[*]GoldTip Pin Nocks - (black or purple [8D])[*]11/32" - 65 grain screw in PDP Converta Target Points - (only available through Lancaster that I can see)[/ul]
Assuming you will use roughly a 29" shaft, this recipe will produce a finished arrow between 350 and 355 grains and they fly like darts. I know 65 grains sounds light, but keep in mind that the GT insert this point screws into weighs just over 30 grains......so it's just like having a 100 grain glue in with no insert.

Assuming your shooting IBO and not restricted to 280fps, I'd shoot this as close to 70lbs as you can comfortably shoot. Anywhere above 60lbs it will fly fine but you will get more speed the closer to 70lbs you go. With that said, the right weight for you is MUCH more important than what speed your shooting. With 4" fletch and the screw in points it's about the lightest IBO legal HC fat arrow configuration I've seen or been able to build and I tried a LOT of recipes before deciding on this one.

RE: FAT Arrows?
 

Also one thing as well Jeff - If you use any type of GoldTip, they include a sticker on the wrapper that shows you what weight the bundle was sorted under. Save this......in the future when it's time to buy more you can specify the weight bundle number and then your new shafts will match your old ones exactly. Otherwise you may get a bundle that is like 3-7 grains off.......just an FYI.

RE: FAT Arrows?
 

Thanks, Matt:

I think I can shoot 65lbs, comfortably. I shoot 66, now....and I want to be able to practice a lot. I'll get a dozen like you say....but I've been shooting a 27.5" arrow (if that makes a diff).

Is the "Pro 22" enough to tell my shop?

RE: FAT Arrows?
 

2x more things......if your going to use the Pin Nock system (I would recommend it) you need to treat those nocks as being disposable. They are a bit fragile and you need to keep your eye on them when you start stacking those arrows together and whacking arrows. The nocks are fragile, but they protect the back end of the shaft super super well. I've only destroyed one arrow in 2 years of shooting this system, and literally have buckets of arrows destroyed from before I started using it. I would recommend buying 2x packs of the pins (one for spares), and probably 4+ packs of extra nocks and keep them in your 3D quiver so you can change them on the course or when practicing. I went through over 100 of their nocks last year which does get expensive but I honestly believe they are the best nock out there if you are willing to keep up on them and make sure they are always in 100% shape.

I don't know what your dealer would charge but if you go to lancasterarchery.com you can get the components I mentioned above for around $175 + shipping assuming you got 4x packs of nocks and 2x packs of pins.

RE: FAT Arrows?
 

Thanks, Matt. I'll check with my shop guy. I also have to order a rest for the Airborne. A good 3D rest. Whatcha think?

Stabilizer?

RE: FAT Arrows?
 

Jeff: You can cut them shorter then and be OK, if you shooting 65lbs then you can have that arrow down to 325 grains and still be legal. Dropping 1.5" off that shaft will end up being around 340ish grains.

If you get the pins these shafts will last you a LONG time.......

A 340ish grain arrow out of a 28-28.5" 82nd at 65lbs is gonna be hauling some serious you know what. ;)

RE: FAT Arrows?
 

Most won't agree with me here but if you look at what rests are on the Pro's bow for any type of competition and you will see a spring steel type rest. They are bullet proof, won't fail on you, less maintenance than any dropaway, and less expensive as well. They also won't move if you creep on your shot sequence.......;). I'd love to see you with a Brite Site Pro Tuner with a medium .010 blade for thosePro 22's. This is what I shoot and I have no affiliation w/ these guys at all, it's just an awesome bullet proof rest.

For stabilizer I'd recommend the same one I loaned to Rob at that lunch we all went to.......an 11.5" Doinker Carbon Elite with the supression mount. In my opinion it's more adjustable than anything out there to help you get the balance you need for any particular rig, and it keeps the weight out and away from the bow where you want it. It also soaks up more vibration than anything I've personally seen that's legal for HC. I liked it enough that I turned down big discounts on other stuff to pay full price for mine and even though I have no plans of shooting HC in the future I still hang onto it. If Rob's OK with it and not currently using it, you are more than welcome to try out the one he has of mineand you can ship it back whenever your done with it, that way you know what it's like before you spend the $$$.

Your shop should easily know what a Pro 22 is, just make sure you tell him you want the Pro series. There is a regular 22 series that doesn't have quite the tolerances or specs of the pro series. Also, I'm guessing the rest I recommended will run you $80-$90 and the stabilizer will run you around $110 or so.