LittleChief

Jeff, I didn't want to contaminate your post with this reply, so I'll put it inone of my own.
I sure wish that I had your luck. I am so frustrated trying to get fixed blade broadheads to fly true. There are two pro-shops in my area, and I don't have much faith in either. As I've said before, one preaches speed and mechanicals, and the other hates Mathews to an extent that each time I go in there, I have to listen to him berate the company that made my Drenalin. Also, the two of them used to be team-mates and they had a falling out, so what one of them tells me, the other ususally contradicts.
So far, I've bought properly spined arrows and an ASD. I squared the shafts, squared the inserts, assembled the arrows and spun them to make sure the broadheads and nocks are aligned properly. With field points, if I pay attention to my form and take careful shots, I can shoot 1" groups at 20 yards, 11/2" groups at30 yards and 2 inch groups at 40 yards. When I shoot the BH tiipped arrows, I'm shooting a 6" to 7" group centered 3" low and about 3" right. I've downloaded the Easton tuning guide, and as it instructed, I've moved my rest left almost 3/32", in 1/32" increments, and I'm still hitting just a little left, but I swear I can see the arrows "corkscrew" up, to the right, down, and then back left. I still have to either lower my loop or raise the rest just a little, but I may have to go in to get some advice, since I can't figure out how to adjust the height on this Mathews Convertable HD drop-away rest. I've checked for fletching contact, and I can't find any. I'm stubborn, and I'll keep on until I figure it out, but I wish that some of you were close enough to just bring the bow in and get some un-biased help.
On a BH target note, I should have forked over the money at the start for a good Block target. The first target I picked up was a cheap one, and my arrows actually went through it. Yesterday, I bought a Morrells Six Shooter, which I was told was a good target. My first round of five shots buried the vanes of three arrows all the way in the target. My guess is that's not good for the vanes. Lesson learned..... don't skimp on a broadhead target.
Sorry folks. I just needed to vent.

GMMAT

LC...

My shop owner is a pure hunter. His assistant is a young kid that's shot a LOT of target archery. The youngster is the one that has set up my bows, initially. I've simply had a good "base" from which to begin. I am lucky to have them within 3 miles of my home.

I bought my '07 ally on a thursday......sighted in BHs on a friday.....and took a buck with it on Saturday morning. Thinking back.....I wouldn't do that again so close to season's end......but again....I'm lucky to have these guys.

I guarantee you there's someone on the forum that would help you.....that isn't too far away.

LittleChief

Jeff,
Just got out of a two hour meeting. Jeez, it's looking like the U. S. Navy may someday be U. S. Navy, Inc.
Anyway, I know Greg/Mo is about three hours away. How far away are some of you from the Memphis, Tennessee area?
I'll be hunting with Txjourneyman in early June, so I'd like to have the kinks worked out by then. If not, I may have to put on a 125 grain mechanical and hope for the best in regards to penetration on the hogs. I'll keep trying to get the Montecs lined out. I'm starting to think that I should strip the vanes off and start from scratch. What do you think?

KodiakArcher

Don't bother stripping the vanes off (unless they're damaged), they probably aren't the culprit. Are the broadheads grouping consistantly? If not it's a problem with the arrows. If they are then it's a problem with a.) the bow or b.) the shooter. My Montecs fly consistantly 4" left of my field points. Conincidentally I can never get rid of the consistant fletch right tear I have shooting at point blank through paper, so I'm pretty certain what the culprit is; I pull my anchor in pretty tight to my face. But I'm consistant with it and I just adjust my sights out a bit before hunting with fixed blades. I'm working on my form to correct the problem but it ain't happening this spring...

I hate to say it but if you're getting good groups, some of us just eventually have to give up on getting them to hit in the same point of impact as the field points before we drive ourselves into an early grave worrying about it. Critters have been killed for eons with imperfectly tuned gear and/or imperfect form. (Before I get flamed for that, I'm not saying we shouldn't strive for perfection! I'm saying that sometimes good enough is actually good enough.) Even with my imperfection I can keep broadheads in a 3" dia. group at 40 yards, it's just that my fp's hit to the right of that group once I'm dialed in for the broadheads. Come hunting season I won't shoot a field point, so I don't care where they group. (Yes, I go through LOTS of broadhead targets!)

txjourneyman

Don't make me have to put a gun in your hands! LOL! You have plenty of time, I'm confident you'll get it worked out. And if you have to shoot mechanicals I'll make sure you know where you have to put them. Just out of curiosity have you tried any other fixed blade heads?

LittleChief

Kodiak,
Believe me, I knew when I was the problem. Once in a while, one of the arrows would seem to do something wild. Once I paid attention to what I was doing, I saw that I was doing something wrong. Not holding the bow vertical, losing a solid anchor point or something else. Frustration can have a significant impact on form.

gibblet

chief, give me a call - 828 680 9862. i'll help you out.

KodiakArcher

No doubt. When you reach that point it's time to pack it in for that session and come back with a clear head/attitude later.

LittleChief

Greg,
Sorry I missed your post. I've actually been busy for a change. To answer your question, I haven't tried any other fixed blade heads. I've thought about trying Muzzys, but considering how much I've spent getting set up, my wife's understanding will eventually reach it's limits. I'm sure I can slip in another 30 bucks......

Paul L Mohr

For starters I don't think your spine is as good as you think it is. In most cases if you shoot field tips well and your broad heads don't group you probably have spine issues. Shooting a tad high/low or to one side of the other can often be touched up by adjusting the rest. However they should still group pretty well.

It is true some set ups will favor a particular broad head, sort of like a rifle liking a particular load. But when things are right it really shouldn't matter as long as they are straight and of good quality.

Some things that may help; more FOC, more fletching for better steering and possibly a lower profile head that would fly better.

When I tune for broad heads I personally don't get crazed about them hitting the same spot as my field points do. Most times they are, but if I know my bow is tuned well and they are a few inches away I don't lose sleep over it. I am more concerned with how they fly and group. I can adjust my sights before hunting season to compensate for a few inches. And while practicing with field tips it isn't that big of a deal. I am more concerned with how they group actually.

I would play with the spine of your arrows and see if it gets better.

Keep in mind that fixed blades are bit harder to shoot well. They will show form errors much better than target arrows do. If you are shooting that well with field tips consistantly I think you could get your broad heads a bit better.

This is so hard to help someone with over the internet. It's much easier to do in person so you can see the set up and watch what is going on.

If you have the power to use them I personally don't see anything wrong with mechanicals. I wouldn't use them as an excuse not to tune though. Mechanicals don't perform too well on arrows that don't fly well.

Paul