What is you favorite? If I was to go today, I would have to go w/ my muzzy 100s as they seem to fly the best. I have heard a lot of talk about expandables just for turkeys. Any thoughts on them as well. My only concern w/ the muzzy broadheads is they seem to have a fairly small cutting diameter, but I guess if you can hit an apple w/ them that should do the job.

ok it all depends on how you feel about the matter.
1. Gobbler Guillitine-great for head shots will literaly cut the head completely off if you hit it. i shot a 28lb bird and it didnt even flop it jsut fell and kind of qiuvered. The draw backs are there very hard to carry, they brake easly, you have to get extra long arrows bc of the blades hitting your sights, and your shots are limited to about 25 yards. The benys there DEADLY if you hit the bird where you aim game ovver its done no running, no flying no floping. And if you miss you dont wound the bird, you might get another shot but i dought it bc they wistle like bottle rockets.
2.Expandles- i have used the Gobbler Getters from NAP and they work pretty good. The idea behind the expandables is to make a very large hole. The gobbler getter has a blunt tip so you have some shock that slows the arrow and you have the cutting hole that it leaves.
I hope this info helpd you out and if you get the gobbler getters they give you a shot placement card that helps. GOOD LUCK

I recommend what ever flies the best with your bow....especially because it is such a small target. I prefer to use the same broadheads I deer hunted with (which are muzzys). I like to use duller broadheads to help the arrow stay in the bird.

The bottom line is: if you hit where your suppose to, any broadhead will do the job......so why not shoot one you know shoots well out of you bow.

Gotta love the Gobbler Getters. Crank down the poundage on your bow a bit and aim at the butt of the wing, and you will have one hurting bird!

We make our own gobbler getter by taking a regular NAP Spitfire and grinding off the point to create a flat about the size of a BB. Fly real well too.

Haha..we are gonna agree some something Roskoe. I did the same, and actually would shoot my hunting point at a block target a few time to dull the blades a little bit and increase the energy transfer from the broadhead to the bird. I was grinding off a point once and had the wheel bind on the head, and it went flying...that is when I started buying the GG's.

Makes no sense! I want my blades to cut anything they touch and if they go all the way through, nothing worng with that. Buta head that is dull, isn't going to do the damage that a sharp one will!

I also have done like Roskoe does, I have slightly rounded the tip on my jackhammers, but keep the sharp blades!

It all has to do with KE and energy transfer from the broadhead to the birds body. Higher the energy transfer, the more likely you are to knock the bird over. Think of it like this, when you punch someone (which I have never done) do you do it with one finger or your whole fist. The whole fist, because it transfers the energy in a better way. Same thing applies to a broadhead. The arrow will still penetrate, but will stay in the bird, increasing the energy transfer, and also making it harder to lose the bird due to it flying off before dying.

Upon the advice of someone with considerable experience in bowhunting turkeys, I'm leaving my blades sharp. I was somewhat concerned about getting the tips ground off square and consistent. Made a jig out of a piece of 9/16" diameter tool steel. Drilled and tapped a 8X32 hole with a .204 clearance hole (just like an arrow insert) - put the jig in a 9/16" collet. Running the lathe at high speed, I used a tool post grinder to cut a consistent flat on the point of each head. It worked great. I reasoned that the flat tip would get through the screen of the double bull blind better than a rounded tip.

does anyone have a picture of a bird where to hit it with an arrow in the body broadside?