Who thinks you need more than 60 lbs?
09-21-2006, 09:33 PM
#21
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Flushing Michigan
Posts: 2,355
RE: Who thinks you need more than 60 lbs?
ORIGINAL: monsterbucks2011
i dont because i use 50 pounds and i still kill deer but i like to keep my shots within 20 for a buck and 30 yards for a doe.
i dont because i use 50 pounds and i still kill deer but i like to keep my shots within 20 for a buck and 30 yards for a doe.
09-21-2006, 09:36 PM
#22
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eureka, MO
Posts: 3,703
RE: Who thinks you need more than 60 lbs?
ORIGINAL: gzg38b
What the ???? Why does your ethical range change depending on the sex of the animal? That is the most insane thing I've heard on this forum in a long time. You owe that doe the same respect that you'd give the buck. If you don't think you canmake a 30 yard shot on a buck what makes you think you're going to make it on the doe? Or is it that wounding a doe is more acceptable than wounding a buck because does are more abundant?
ORIGINAL: monsterbucks2011
i dont because i use 50 pounds and i still kill deer but i like to keep my shots within 20 for a buck and 30 yards for a doe.
i dont because i use 50 pounds and i still kill deer but i like to keep my shots within 20 for a buck and 30 yards for a doe.
09-22-2006, 12:04 AM
#23
Typical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Virginia
Posts: 753
RE: Who thinks you need more than 60 lbs?
I'm no expert or technical guru with a bow, but that doesn't stop me from having my own theories!
I'm not a big guy, but I'm fairly strongand could probably be pulling back around 65 to 70 pounds. I don't. I pull around 58 to 60 lbs (which is near the top of my bow's range). I know more pounds would give me a flatter trajectory, which gives me more leeway with distance estimation at longer distances. I also use a bow with a small axle-to-axle length with adraw length that is, if anything, a little bit on the short side. I know a longer axle-to-axle length would make it easier to shoot more accurately and that a longer draw length would essentially have the same effect as drawing more weight.
Why do I do these dumb things you ask?
The short answer is they give me more shot options.
I hunt in the woods, and so I’m not shooting 40 yards, I probably couldn’t shoot much more than 25 or 30 yards max, without hitting branches, unless I just cleared out an area (I do clear out several very specific and strategic shooting lanes out to about 25 yards). So the flatter trajectory doesn’t matter so much to me. If I'm pulling back a bow that I can easily draw and hold for a significant amount of time, then this allows me more options to draw when the deer isn’t looking and hold that draw until they go through one of my shooting lanes and I have a good, ethical shot. Having a short axle-to-axle length means that my bow is more maneuverable and I can shoot from more angles without hitting my tree trunk or branches, my tree stand or myself. And, since I’m only shooting out to about 25 yards anyways, I feel very comfortable with the accuracy I have out to that distance. Using a shorter draw length helps with holding at full draw for longer, if I need to, to take an ethical shot, and also helps with the maneuverability factor.
Maybe this sounds weird, but it seems to work for me.
I'm not a big guy, but I'm fairly strongand could probably be pulling back around 65 to 70 pounds. I don't. I pull around 58 to 60 lbs (which is near the top of my bow's range). I know more pounds would give me a flatter trajectory, which gives me more leeway with distance estimation at longer distances. I also use a bow with a small axle-to-axle length with adraw length that is, if anything, a little bit on the short side. I know a longer axle-to-axle length would make it easier to shoot more accurately and that a longer draw length would essentially have the same effect as drawing more weight.
Why do I do these dumb things you ask?
The short answer is they give me more shot options.
I hunt in the woods, and so I’m not shooting 40 yards, I probably couldn’t shoot much more than 25 or 30 yards max, without hitting branches, unless I just cleared out an area (I do clear out several very specific and strategic shooting lanes out to about 25 yards). So the flatter trajectory doesn’t matter so much to me. If I'm pulling back a bow that I can easily draw and hold for a significant amount of time, then this allows me more options to draw when the deer isn’t looking and hold that draw until they go through one of my shooting lanes and I have a good, ethical shot. Having a short axle-to-axle length means that my bow is more maneuverable and I can shoot from more angles without hitting my tree trunk or branches, my tree stand or myself. And, since I’m only shooting out to about 25 yards anyways, I feel very comfortable with the accuracy I have out to that distance. Using a shorter draw length helps with holding at full draw for longer, if I need to, to take an ethical shot, and also helps with the maneuverability factor.
Maybe this sounds weird, but it seems to work for me.
09-22-2006, 09:26 PM
#25
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,679
RE: Who thinks you need more than 60 lbs?
How do you figure that?
A limb that is optimally flexed is going to be more eficient than a limb that isn't. Regardless of what kind of pocket it sits in.
The only real benefit to a pivoting limb pocket is the fact that the limb is sitting completely inside the pocket and is more secure. It is still stressed in all the same places as they were before pivoting pockets.
A limb that is optimally flexed is going to be more eficient than a limb that isn't. Regardless of what kind of pocket it sits in.
The only real benefit to a pivoting limb pocket is the fact that the limb is sitting completely inside the pocket and is more secure. It is still stressed in all the same places as they were before pivoting pockets.
09-22-2006, 09:56 PM
#26
Fork Horn
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Prosper, TX
Posts: 270
RE: Who thinks you need more than 60 lbs?
ORIGINAL: Washington Hunter
I don't think we need more than 40 lbs. to kill any North American big game animal.
I think we owe it to the animal, however, to shoot more than that to ensure a quick, clean, ethical kill.
I don't think we need more than 40 lbs. to kill any North American big game animal.
I think we owe it to the animal, however, to shoot more than that to ensure a quick, clean, ethical kill.
09-23-2006, 04:25 AM
#27
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 1,653
RE: Who thinks you need more than 60 lbs?
Far better to pull a bow with less poundage than wrestle with to much on a cold morning fully wrapped in clothing. After a couple of back surgeries I shoot 58 pounds or so during late summer/early fall practice and then back in down to 50 pounds to hunt with. I see alot of folks fight to pull a heavy bow and that translates into alot of extra movement in a hunting situation. My first deer with a bow was with an old Ben Pearson recurve @ 30 pounds and itkilled her quicker than I can spend $100 at Cabelas.
09-23-2006, 06:58 AM
#28
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location:
Posts: 2,981
RE: Who thinks you need more than 60 lbs?
all i can say bigbulls is check it out. shoot a 70# bow of same draw, type, strings, arrows, rest, and all that - backed down to 60# against a 60# bow that's identical.
also, i think you folks are leaving something out - drawlength. say i'm shooting a 29.5" drawlength at 60# and someone else is shooting a 27.5" identical setup at 70# - who's got more force?
also, i think you folks are leaving something out - drawlength. say i'm shooting a 29.5" drawlength at 60# and someone else is shooting a 27.5" identical setup at 70# - who's got more force?
09-23-2006, 08:18 AM
#29
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Elizabeth Colo. USA
Posts: 4,413
RE: Who thinks you need more than 60 lbs?
also, i think you folks are leaving something out - drawlength.
I do know a lady that has taken 4 bull elk in the last 5 years and she has a 27" draw and is only pulling around 45#'s! It's all about shot distance and placement!
