Greg / MO

While I agree with both Rob's and Rick's posts up above, you may want to look more closely at your arrows, too... if they're doing as you said. I'm not sure about how accurate a result you're getting out of spinning them in your hand, but sounds as though they definitely need to be checked out; that just may be accounting for differences in tears as well, though I would tend to agree that it's more of a bow-rest tuning issue than an arrow issue.

As far as string creep goes, if you're shooting binaries with a stock BowTech string... well, I just haven't seen any on all the bows I've been around. Not after the string is "shot in".

Germ

Go to easton's home page there is a tuning guide. I use this for all my bows. I have three different bows setup to hunt right now. Only 1(Bowtech) shoots bullet whole thru paper. They all shoot a broadhead and field piont the same at 40 yds.

Bows are like woman, there is no one way to tune themor make them happy.

Rick James

He's headed to my place tonight after I get out of work so I would imagine we will have it figured out pretty quickly. I am thinking it may be a combination of a few things including some or all of the the following including nock pinch, bad arrows, form, rest/nock position, etc.I think we are going to tweak the cams a bit to give him a bit more valley as well with a bit less holding weight so it's more comfortable for him.........

Rob/PA Bowyer

That's great Matt, and might fine of you, please come back and let us know. It's tough to give advice when we don't have hands on and limited information so I'll be curious how you make out.

Bowtech Joe

I notice you have a 28" draw, how long are your arrows? i had GT 5575s thatwere 27" that i was shooting from a 70lb bow.I ran into problems with them being underspined. They were approaching the 5 grain per pound threshold also.

In my opinion the 5575s are too light for <28" arrows out of 70Lb bows. Try the 7595s or a different brand

Rick James

Well we spun the arrows and their straigtness wasn't the problem in my opinion, they were pretty straight however I do think they are a bit underspined at 26 1/8" long and approx 67lbs draw on a GT 55/75. They were green label gold tip hunters (the same as I am shooting out to 60 yards with great accuracy). I know binary's are fairly tolerant of underspined arrows (more than other cams at least in my experience) however I felt he would benefit from a stiffer 340 spine since broadheads will be on these. If they were a field point only arrow for target or backyard practice I would have recommended staying with the 55/75's for $$$ sakes, but I strongly believe in proper spine when broadheads (especially fixed blades) are in question. Since no one has Gold Tips in stock right now we got him into Axis 340's from the shop and spun them all to find the straightest ones and set them aside for broadhead arrows. The ones that didn't spin so well (4 from the dozen) are going to be marked as field point only arrows. I am going to cut them to 27.5" long with 100 grain points and crank the bow up to 70lbs and according to OnTarget2 he should be spined just on the stiff side of perfect. I would rather see an arrow just a bit stiff on the chart than not stiff enough. 70 should feel pretty good too I would imagine since he picked up the smooth mods tonight before he met up with me and has more valley and less peak draw force than the fast mods he is used to.

After looking at the old arrows and while waiting for glue to dry on the new Axis arrows.......I looked at the tune of the Tribute. First of all, the rest was installed way too low by the original dealer to the point that broadheads were actually touching the shelf when at full draw. We raised the rest so the arrow was level with the berger holes in the riser when the rest was in the full up position. Then I checked centershot. I don't have one of the fancy lasers that Greg has........but I do have a golden key center shot gauge and used that to find true center shot. The bow had been setup with the rest probably 1/4" outside (rest too far left when looking from back of bow) of centershot. John showed me the paper tune holes he had shot before and they were all nock right matching up with where they should be for this centershot position. I adjusted to perfect centershot according to my gauge.

By time we did all this and got the new arrows fletched, it was pretty late and he had to head home for the long drive. I think he is still driving as I type this. We are planning to meet up on Friday after I get out of my 9-5 job and head to the range to check form, shot execution, and then walkback tune then papertune as well to triple check centershot as well. I am also going to tie in nock points on the bow as the original shop used brass nocksets that may or may not be at proper distance from eachother for these nocks without pinching......I suspect there is a nock pinch issue as well going on here. We are also going to check 2nd and 3rd Axis on the site at that point to make sure everything is in check. We will use a level, a vise, and a plumbob for 2nd and 3rd axis. We will update then more so everyone can hopefully see how we did this and maybe be able to do this at home on their own.

nodog

Da%^ I hate watching a show that turns into a mini series when I thought it was going to end.

Very interested to see this one played out. You didn't get to check out his form then? If his arrows were underspined then his rest would have been slightly out wouldn't it? It being low didn't show in the paper? I don't remember.

Swell your helping him out!

Germ

No I think underspined rest is slightly in, great work I am glad to see you help him out.

My Ross is perfect left to right, but nock is set a touch high, every bow is a little different.

Nice work!!

davidmil

It's more than likely form. I agree with that. BUT, one statement you made makes me want to have you check a couple other things. You said, "depending on which arrow". It could be the arrows. Also, if you bought a bow one month ago and have made NO adjustments since you got it.... string stretch could be playing on it too. Number or sort your arrows somehow and see if it's the same arrow. It may be a matter of turning the nocks a tad or something if you're getting contact. Lots of things could cause it. A high left tear can also indicate a spine problem. You have to dig a little. First make sure of your arrow selection. I guess the quickest way to check spine would be to put on a lighter head. Charts are a guide, not an absolute. If you're border line and plan on shooting broadheads you should always error on the side of stiff.

Campo

Well...I just arrived home from Albany and my meeting with Matt. Gotta say, I am pretty impressed with his knowledge about all things archery. From the business to mechanics, this fella was able to fill me up with information non-stop. Matt, ditch the IT thing and make archery your full time!
So, Matt already filled everyone in on the issues. I didnt know we were gonna run THAT many tuning tests on Friday. Good thing I didnt shoot tonight.
Matt filled everyone in pretty much. The bow was not setup as well as I wanted, or as well as it origionally should have. I am not knocking anyone here, but I definetly think if you are going to invest money into a bow, make sure you take the time to set it up properly. I lost a month and a half now due to a tuning issue.
Again, thanks Matt, and well keep everyone posted.