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Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
I am pulling back 55 pounds with a 27 inch draw and am shooting around 225 fps. Since i have a slower bow would it make more sense to use a cut on contact broadhead. I just want to make sure i can get a clean and humane kill. Last year i shot a deer with a crimson talon and it only want half way through. Luckily i got the deer, but i just don't want that to happen again. I did get some slick tricks, but i'm not sure that would help the penetration problem. What our your thoughts???
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RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
Here's where we learn from the trad guys. They all use cut on contact heads, and I figure it's for a reason. They shoot much slower than you do, so yes, I would say that's a good choice. There are gozillions out there, so that's the hard part. Magnus Stingers are GREAT.
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RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
Tritons by Wac em cut on contact blades can be replaced and tip can be
sharpened on any stone. Shoot accurate and very good penetration. |
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
The Talons use up a lot of energy in the animal because of the "aero-foil" fins, thus reducing penetration. I would stay with COC. Typically, the more blades and surface area on them, the greater the reduction in penetration, so keep that in mind when deciding on two blades, three blades, and bleeders. Some quality ones are: Magnus, Muzzy Phantoms, Simmons Sharks, Wasp Sharpshooter, NAP Razorback, Razorcaps, Steel Force (non-serrated), Sonic/American Broadhead Company, G5 Montec and B-52, Zwickey, Bear. Probably the only chisel tip type head, like the Muzzy, I would consider would be the Innerloc. Innerloc actually makes a two blade version and the chisel tip is smaller than the Muzzy, though very tough. The Muzzy would probably do the job, but the Innerloc in that configuration would penetrate better.
Smaller profile heads like the Wac'em, G5 Striker, and the Sonic/Americans offer a lot of penetration in the popular 3 blade configuration however. |
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
I shoot a Buck Master 2000.I have a 29" draw and it's set a 52lb pull.I shoot Gold Tip carbon arrows with a 4 blade 100 gr.Muzzy broadheads.
I've been archery hunting for only 5 years but have taken 2 deer.Both were double lung pass throughs.My farthest shot was about 25 yards and the arrow broke a rib going in and one coming out.He walked about 10 yards and fell over dead. Arrow placement is far more important than speed,imo. |
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
only 52 lbs and 29 inch draw thats a weird configuration
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RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
ORIGINAL: Cougars09 only 52 lbs and 29 inch draw thats a weird configuration |
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
I just threw out a brand new muzzy. It brought back a lot of memories from my old bow(I still have) many many kills!
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RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
I am pulling back 55 pounds with a 27 inch draw and am shooting around 225 fps. Since i have a slower bow would it make more sense to use a cut on contact broadhead. I think we're talking about deer here right? I think Slick Tricks would be fine. However, if you are concerned about penetration on game, then yes, go with a cut on contact. I use Magnus Stingers and Muzzy Phantoms with my longbow. I believe Grizzly 160 grain have the best penetration in testing. However, we're talking about game much bigger then deer. I'd give the Grizzly's a go, but I have trouble sharpening a single sided blade. |
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
I shoot a 52# longbow and if my arrows come out the way I want them too (I'm in the process of making up my 2006 hunting arrows) I'll be shooting probably 625-650 grain total weight arrows and maybe 160 fps
Yes, I'll be using a COI head, Magnus Stinger being my favorite right now. Elk Hunt in September with this combo and I have 100% confidence in that combo |
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
Ok, thanks alot for the responses guys. I have decided to get a cut on contact broadhead. I'm thinking either the Magnus Stinger or the Wac'em Triton. Are the blades thick enough on the Wac'em Triton. They are .027 compared the the Stingers .040. And if i get the stinger would it be better to get the buzz cut broadhead or the regular four blade smooth surface. Thanks
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RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
At a sportsman bow seminar a few years ago , the speaker said to use a "cut on contact" broadhead for 55# or less . Anything above 55# , use the mechanicals , bone breakers , etc ..
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RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
Stingers all the way!
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RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
Be sure to check you local game laws before using the Buzzcut. In some states, serrated BH's are against the rules....dumb, but true. The regular Stingers are just as good and just as sharp.
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RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
In theory they should work better. Cause more bloodtrail.
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RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
The cleaner the slice the more blood you will get. The more trauma you have to tissue, veins and arteries the faster they will clot and the less blood you will have.
I don't feel there is any place in archery for serrated blade heads. They look cool, that is about it. They also offer less penitration if that is a concern. With your set up I think any conventional fixed blade head would work well. I don't think you really need a cut on contact, Won't hurt anything though. Muzzy, NAP thunder heads or the likes would probably work fine as well. Also remember the less cutting surface, the more penitration on game. So don't go with a huge cutting diameter. And if you are worried about penitration with a lower energy set up try and keep your arrow weight up for more momentum. This will help push the arrow thru the animal after it hits it. Also make sure your set up is tuned well and the arrow is flying straight and true. You can lose a lot of energy if your arrow hits the animal at an odd angle or something. I think your problem was the design of the heads you were using. With any conventional head I think you have enough umph to get a pass thru. There are probably even a few mechanicals that would work for you, some penitrate pretty well. Then again some don't, so I think you are wise to stick with a COC type head or something simular. I have used the steel force heads and they are pretty good. Paul |
RE: Cut on Contact broadhead for slower bows?
definitely a fan of Slick Tricks, I've had great success with them. I also like the penetration of the Magnus Stinger 2-blade.
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