boldplate

OK I'm hearing all you guys out there talking about WB and Drop Rest and problems with them being bow set ups.................
Heres another point of view.... You keep talking about setting your bow up or having your bow set up by someone else. There are lots of new people coming to this site that I bet would like to hear how you set your bows up right. Not to hear thefussing about what works and what you like.I can set up a bow but would like to hear how you do it.. Step by step.

Who want's to be first to HELP people not tell them to buy new equipment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Boldplate

MOTOWNHONKEY

Ok bold I'll get on here later and tell you how to do it. Not enough time right right now. I know your friend needs to know how.

boldplate

THAT'S COLD

jsasker

How about the easton tuning guide?Then they can download it to have forever.

sandilands

Hey, Boldplate. Thanx for speaking up for me! I've been hunting for yrs and just got into bow hunting, almost afraid to ask on this site. I have made a few postings in the bow section, but you guys are alittle out of my league at this pointLOL. I've been trying to just read L8ly and have npticed an improvement in my shooting already...... little tid-bits of info supplied by y'all. Sorry for not being an expert but we all have to start somewhere right? Here's another Q. how do you know ifmy bow is out of tune and its not me? I get the odd flyer and can say to some that it was my fault, but sometimes I'm not sure b/c the shot felt good but the arrow didn't fly true? And also the newer ones to the sport don't always know where to look for info and sometimes terminology is difficult too.

burniegoeasily

I build my bows. My favorite bow is a redline powertec combo. I took a hoyt power tec frame and put redline limbs and an HO cam and idle wheel. I had string and cable built for it and laced it up. I then set my tiller by measuring the distance fromwhere the limb meets the pocket, to midline of the cam/wheel axels.I do this by making a plumb string with a thick string and loop it aroundboth axels on the out sideof the limbs (that is for a single cam bow, a two cam bow, you can use the string for this),I set the cam time (timing is set by twisting or untwisting string and cable respectively), check tiller again and adjust if need by loosening or tightening limbs, put on my rest (just eyeball it), and go out and shoot about 20 arrows to insure the string is not stretching. I then recheck my cam time and marked it with a marker. I feel this is crucial. What I mean by marking my cam, is once you have the cam timed you mark it by tracing your limbs onto your cam with a sharpy, This way you can check your bow timing simply by looking at the mark. If the marksare where the limb is, its in time. Then I start putting everything on sights, quiver, etc,.I press the bow and put in my peep and leeches, server them down accordingly. I then use a bow square to set my rest and nock/loop. I use a brass nock to get my nocking point set and to insure my loop stays in the right place. Go out and shoot through paper to make sure things are set up right and adjust accordingly. Check time and tiller once more and if every thing is still jiving, I start setting my pins.[/align][/align]That is how burnie sets his up.[/align]

zak123

Sandilands, don't ever be afraid to ask a question on huntingnet.com. These guys are the greatest group of guys I have ever dealt with. They are more than happy to answer your questions, even if they are simple.

burniegoeasily

Sandilands, dont feel apprehensive in asking questions, I guarantee you that what ever questions you have, someone else is just aching to know the answer as well. The only dumb question is the ones not asked. We all started somewhere. I have bow hunted for over 25+ years and I still learn things every day here. There are some very knowledgeable guys here.
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What Id do is shoot through paper. The way I dothis is to take some sort of posts you can put in the ground. Nothing major just two sticks of some sort that you can push into the ground that will stick up about 3+feet. I use t-post, rebar, old broom sticks, etc. Set the posts about 2 to 3 feet apart and stretch news paper between them. I juststretch sheets of news paper long wise between them, fold the ends over around the post and tape it on the back side. Place a target behind the paper far enough to allow an arrow to pass through the paper completely. Set the target in line with some mark on the paper to insure you hit the target behind the paper. Stand back about 10feet, no further, and shoot an arrow through the paper into the target. Look at the hole it made in the paper. If there is a perfect hole through the paper, you got a bullet hole, no problem with the bow. If there is a tear above the main hole, you got a high tear. You can raise your rest, or lower your knock to fix this. Just adjust in small incriments. If you have a tear to the right or left of the main hole, you have a right tear of left tear respectively. You will need to move you restleft or rightto fix this problem. Since you said you get a flyer every now and then, Id suggest shooting a few different holes in the paper to see if it is you or your bow. Also, take note of the arrow that if flying crazy, mark it to see if it is the problem.Some times you might have one jacked up arrow.

Hope this makes since and helps.

rcgerchow

When I first purchase a new bow every 4-5 years I work with the guys at the shop to get all the primary things set up. Proper draw length, peep sight alignment, sightsand even set the poundage for what I will be shooting in warm weather. I usually shoot through paper while working with the pro shop guys to make sure arrow rest and everything is lined up properly. Usually from that point I can pretty much maintain my bow for practice and hunting. I don't shoot the fastest bow in the world and I shoot a fairly heavy arrow. I have a set of arrows that I use for practice that are identical to my hunting arrows. If my practice arrows get messed up I just repair them. A lot of the tuning and continual tinkering that goes on is for speed freaks, that want the highest fps out of their bows, this does not always equate to a great hunting set up(you will probably never break mach 1). You need to know if you want to set up for speed, accuracy or for some speed but a lot of quiet. Kind of like building a car, you can have a rod w/300 hp. auto trans that gets you every where you want to go with little maintenance or a 500 hp fire breathing dragon you have to tinker with every time you want to drive it.

tthhWACKem

sadilands, the guys are right, and you are too, it can be intimidating ad I'm 30+yrs young, but I try every day to learn something new here.. and you helped me cuz this, as do they all, will get more interesting as you go, and this could be a hady thing to learn, and thanks jsasker i will download it to compare what you guys do, good idea.