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Stealth stabilizer (revised)

Old 05-09-2006 | 08:40 AM
  #11  
 
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Default RE: Stealth stabilizer question?

I have the 6" Stealth on my Switchback and it works great. I've used one on my last two bows. I'm sure there are some, out there, that works just as well, but I'm stuck on these for my bow.
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Old 05-09-2006 | 09:00 AM
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Default RE: Stealth stabilizer question?

but their weight systemdoes not allow you to get the weight out away from the riser which I feel is critical.
Thelimb saversystem like I have set up on my 05 Switchback doesn't get the weight out away from the riser either. So I guess what I am asking is why do you feel the need to have the weight away from the riser. Not trying to argue just wanting to find out your opinion and maybe learn something. Jason
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Old 05-09-2006 | 01:30 PM
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Default RE: Stealth stabilizer question?

I also have the enhancer 2000 on my Darton. I have right on the riser with a shorty 2 inch iron stablizer screwed into the front of it. Perfect balance and quiet.
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Old 05-09-2006 | 02:02 PM
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Default RE: Stealth stabilizer question?

ORIGINAL: idahoelkinstructor

but their weight systemdoes not allow you to get the weight out away from the riser which I feel is critical.
Thelimb saversystem like I have set up on my 05 Switchback doesn't get the weight out away from the riser either. So I guess what I am asking is why do you feel the need to have the weight away from the riser. Not trying to argue just wanting to find out your opinion and maybe learn something. Jason
Getting weight out and away from the riser will help reduce pin float/aka range of movement. This is critical and the most important function of a stabilizer IMHO, especially when you shoot a bow loaded w/ silencers and a STS assembly like mine. I believe doinker is the best out there at both getting weight away from the bow as well as quiting it down w/ vibration reduction, while designs like stealth do a great job of silencing the bow only. George Ryals from Copper John/Stanislawski can explain it much better than I can. He is one of the most respected coaches on the east coast, and has heavily influenced the style and setup of a lot of the shooters in my area. More can be read on the link below.

http://www.archerylive.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=258

The second tunable variable is overall bow balance. When choosing a stabilizer for your bow, keep this in mind. Aside from the vibration damping considerations, the stabilizer is just a vehicle to get the end weight a set distance away from the bow. In order to have good torsion stability, you will need to separate the weight from the bow for the best effect. You can demonstrate this with a golf club. Grab the golf club by the head and it is easy to whip the club handle back and forth and it hardly resists change in direction. If you flip the club over, and try the same thing, you will find that the weight of the club head resists rapid change of direction when you whip it to and fro. It also softens the transition between directions. With this little experiment you can visualize how a stabilizer does its job. In my opinion the perfect stabilizer shaft is narrow to reduce its profile to the wind, very stiff to reduce oscillation after the draw or from muscle tremors, and lastly, lighter than air. An ultra light rod will give you more flexibility with end weights and it will allow you more adjustment to overall mass weight close to the bow. I recommend the Easton A/C/E line of stabilizer rods and side rods. They seem to have the best weight to length ratio and they have a nice dead blow style vibration reduction system in the base of the rod. The system consists of a hollow chamber that is filled with micro glass beads. It does a great job of taming the initial thump of the shot. The addition of Doinker modules between the weights and the rod add a nice touch and they do a nice job of taming stabilizer oscillation after the shot.
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Old 05-10-2006 | 05:53 AM
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Default RE: Stealth stabilizer question?

This is somewhat off the original topic but on topic for what Rick is referring to. Does anyone besides me find it easier to torque the bow, and have it remained torqued, with a longer and heavier stabilizer, especially one in which the weight is distributed farther from the riser itself? If so then doesn't that sort of diminish the benefit of having less pin float?
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Old 05-10-2006 | 06:00 AM
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Default RE: Stealth stabilizer question?

ORIGINAL: PABowhntr

This is somewhat off the original topic but on topic for what Rick is referring to. Does anyone besides me find it easier to torque the bow, and have it remained torqued, with a longer and heavier stabilizer, especially one in which the weight is distributed farther from the riser itself? If so then doesn't that sort of diminish the benefit of having less pin float?
I honestly don't and notice a considerably slower float pattern when I am using my 31.5" carbon elite doinker as compared to a 11.5" carbon elite doinker.

I have noticed if someone has a shot/draw sequence that is not smooth and fluid then it may take a longer time to settle down on the spot or target with a longer stabilizer, but that is a problem with the shot/draw sequence that should be cured there, not with the stabilizer.
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Old 05-11-2006 | 05:46 AM
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Default RE: Stealth stabilizer question?

I have noticed if someone has a shot/draw sequence that is not smooth and fluid then it may take a longer time to settle down on the spot or target with a longer stabilizer, but that is a problem with the shot/draw sequence that should be cured there, not with the stabilizer.
Rick, I understand what you are saying but that isn't what I was referring to. My comments were directed more towards the ability to actually torque the grip in one direction or another because of the increased weight located a greater distance from the riser itself. I should have some time tonight to play around with it a bit and see ifI can refine my comments/experience further.
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Old 05-11-2006 | 06:42 AM
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Default RE: Stealth stabilizer question?

when I am using my 31.5" carbon elite doinker as compared to a 11.5" carbon elite doinker.
With all else being equal I sure wouldn't want to hunt with a 11"stabilizer let alone a 31". For me a 8" stabilizer is on the limit of being to long and heavy. I do understand what you are saying and for 3-D competitions, and punching paper I think it is a need. But for hunting I think it would be or could be a hindrance. Maybe not so muchfor atree stand hunter that sits and waits. But for a hunter that does alot of walking/hiking that could be a problem.Mostof the hunting we have here in the west be it elk, mule deer or antelope involves hiking.Of courst western hunters douse tree stands too but you can bet they areeither hunting bears over bait, or whitetails, or maybe a good elk wallow.But for the most part its all on foot and it could be a mile or two or more too the tree stands or ground blind. A lot of archery elk hunters don't use any stabilizer at all to help cut down overall weight. Like I said before I am not trying to argue and yes I agree that itcould help you be a better shot. But overall for me I think the negitives outweigh the positivies when it comes to a long and heavy stabilizer. I am no archey expert so maybe I am looking at this all wrong? I don't know but its something that has sparked my couriousity so I'll be checking in to it.
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Old 05-11-2006 | 07:02 AM
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Default RE: Stealth stabilizer question?

ORIGINAL: idahoelkinstructor

when I am using my 31.5" carbon elite doinker as compared to a 11.5" carbon elite doinker.
With all else being equal I sure wouldn't want to hunt with a 11"stabilizer let alone a 31". For me a 8" stabilizer is on the limit of being to long and heavy. I do understand what you are saying and for 3-D competitions, and punching paper I think it is a need. But for hunting I think it would be or could be a hindrance. Maybe not so muchfor atree stand hunter that sits and waits. But for a hunter that does alot of walking/hiking that could be a problem.Mostof the hunting we have here in the west be it elk, mule deer or antelope involves hiking.Of courst western hunters douse tree stands too but you can bet they areeither hunting bears over bait, or whitetails, or maybe a good elk wallow.But for the most part its all on foot and it could be a mile or two or more too the tree stands or ground blind. A lot of archery elk hunters don't use any stabilizer at all to help cut down overall weight. Like I said before I am not trying to argue and yes I agree that itcould help you be a better shot. But overall for me I think the negitives outweigh the positivies when it comes to a long and heavy stabilizer. I am no archey expert so maybe I am looking at this all wrong? I don't know but its something that has sparked my couriousity so I'll be checking in to it.
I understand, and those stabilizers mentioned are indeed on bows that are for competition only, they will never be hunted with. My hunting bow however wears a 7" Doinker Hunter stablizer now, which is VERY front heavy.......all the weight is on the front in front of the doinker suppression piece.
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Old 05-11-2006 | 04:46 PM
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Default RE: Stealth stabilizer question?

All Stealth stabilizers come with 60/40 weight distribution......meaning that 60% of the mass weight is out infront,where it can help to slow pin float and make your bow aim better!

You do get the best of both worlds with the Stealth,excellent shock and vibrationcontrol........with a weight forward design to enhance accuracy!

Exactly what we allneed in a hunting stabilizer!

www.stealtharchery.com
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