Thats the same chuck that I have and I ordered mine from King Archery (I believe). It works just as good as anything else I'd assume.

Thanks Greg, I'llget one onorder. I am still having a major pain trying to get the dimmer working. It keeps tripping the circuit when I try and slow the motor down. Wentback to the sewing repair shop andgot the sewing machine foot control.... Mistake!! Pain in the rear to work and can't get it to go slow enough. Any suggestions anyone? Are there different types of dimmer switches that are designed for this type of motor/application than the ones that are made for lights. I am not even remotely educated when it comes to electrical components, so bear with me. Doesthe amp capacity of the dimmer switchhave to match the amps of the motor? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.If need be, I can supply the info. printed on the motor if someone can tell me what I need to get.

Thanks, Gingus

TTT

For those who are having trouble getting your feathers to stick i have a suggestion. It matters what kind of white spray paint you use. I use Rust-oleum white Lacquer. It has to be Lacquer, no enamel or anything else. i HAve used fleetch-tite, goat tuff, and i have never, and i mean never had a feather come off. Not even after shooting through my target. Let me know if this helps. BTW you can get the paint at wally world for about 3 dollars.

I am in the process of finishing up my FMJs.

I used Krylon Fusion. You can see the diamond plate pattern if you look hard on a couple. But they look pretty good thus far. I have three done, and shot them yesterday and did some minor retuning/sighting. Didn't have the first problem with vanes. Not one. Whatever the issue was with Goat Tuff and not bonding...it went away.

One other thing I did try...I took just a bit of 150grit sandpaper to the bottom of my Blazer vanes. Just enough to take that shiny crap off. I think that might have something to do with my success now.

Finally, my first completed arrows! I used a lot of the technics in these posts, and finally got around to making my own crresting machine using a sewing machine motor. As i said before, i use rustoleum lacquer for the white base, and then i just used testors model paint from wal-mart for the color bands. If you decide to make your own cresting machine, it is imperative that you use a rheostat to control the speed of the rotation. if it is to fast then your paint splatters and you are left with a less than smooth finish. The entire process is so fun and easy i am not sure why i didn't start this sooner!

Very nice bowhunter 42, looks like you're getting the hang of it.


Here's a set I'm working on at the moment......

Are you splicing your feathers yourself, and if so is it as difficult as it sounds?

Yes, I do splice the feathers myself. I have a small custom arrow shop.

There are a couple of ways to do it. You can either just cut the quills and "zip" the feathers together, then place them in the fletching clamp for gluing, or you can actually cut the feathers from the quills without cutting all the way through the quill, and glue the new feathers to the empty spot in the quill. Both ways are quite tedious though.

thats great , i like the idea ofcresting my own arrows eventually .

Nice thread .