New Bow
#1

I had just sold my PSE Dream Season DNA. A good bow but one that I for some reason I didn't have much confidence in it. Even though I shot it well and took 2 deer with it.
I found a great deal on a Mathews Chill at a shop in VA that was going out of business. (70#/29"). I knew it was a discontinued model but the price was too good to pass up. I put a NAP Apache rest and TruGlo Extreme sight on it and took it to the local shop here in PA and got a 28" Rock Mod put on it. Although not as fast as the PSE, this bow is extremely smooth drawing and at the release it is deathly silent with zero vibration.
After getting the 20 yard pin sighted in I am shooting extremely tight groups. And I haven't even started the tuning process yet. I can't wait to see what I can do with it once it is completely tuned.
I found a great deal on a Mathews Chill at a shop in VA that was going out of business. (70#/29"). I knew it was a discontinued model but the price was too good to pass up. I put a NAP Apache rest and TruGlo Extreme sight on it and took it to the local shop here in PA and got a 28" Rock Mod put on it. Although not as fast as the PSE, this bow is extremely smooth drawing and at the release it is deathly silent with zero vibration.
After getting the 20 yard pin sighted in I am shooting extremely tight groups. And I haven't even started the tuning process yet. I can't wait to see what I can do with it once it is completely tuned.
#3

Yeah I do Super. I usually just do it in my basement and tape newspaper across the doorway with a target bag on the other side.
But I've found lately that paper tuning IMO is not necessary. I set it up by eye, which is pretty darn close from past experience, then do walk back tuning followed by broadhead tuning.
I will post some pics of paper tune before and after walk back and BH tuning when I get it done.
But I've found lately that paper tuning IMO is not necessary. I set it up by eye, which is pretty darn close from past experience, then do walk back tuning followed by broadhead tuning.
I will post some pics of paper tune before and after walk back and BH tuning when I get it done.
#4

Eh, my eyes aint near what they used to be so I can't see the tail of the arrow well enough on launch anymore to tune by eye. Easier for me just to set up the paper rack (Simple 2 4 foot sticks of 2" EMT with feet attached to them and 2 wires strung between. Just clip the paper to the wires.) Same thing I attach targets to at the range.
#5

Mine I'm either getting really good or really lucky. I put my large target bag out and sighted the Chill in with my 20 yd pin. I then proceeded to do walk back to verify my rest position. I shot at 20, 25, 30, 35 and 40 yards. The first time, even though all the shots felt good, I thought it was a fluke so I did it again. Both times, if you took the minor left right variation out and used the mean line, the result was a perfectly plumb verticle line.
Next step is group tuning then BH tuning.
Next step is group tuning then BH tuning.
Last edited by bronko22000; 07-14-2015 at 07:28 AM.
#6

I hate group tuning. Always lose a noch or 2 and fergle up my damn fletchings. I just use those little 1 inch round orange gun target stickers and put them in 5 different spots on my Block. Aim each arrow at a different one. If I hit all 5, she's ready at that range. Back um up! Repeat. I don't mind fletching my rigs, but busting nochs usually means cracked rear arrow. At $120 a dozen that can get a little pricey and I seriously don't need to be giving the wife more ammo for putting a foot in my butt!
#7

Wow Super, your wife must be really tough on you. Mine didn't even bat an eye when I told her I was picking up a bow in VA on our way to FL a couple weeks ago. Even when I told her how much it was. Now she wasn't overjoyed. But she didn't say anything.
#9

Just a little tweeking with the rest and I have my BH and FT hitting same POI at 20 yds (the most i can get in my yard). My groups are really tight too. I will be shooting farther soon but its just too hot.
Now that I have the Rock Modules on it it has a solid wall and makes for (to me) better shootability.
Now that I have the Rock Modules on it it has a solid wall and makes for (to me) better shootability.
#10

A good solid wall makes all the difference with a compound. Helps keep your anchor point consistent. Coming from a traditional background, that was one thing that was really hard for me to grasp on to since I shot 2 different styles of traditional. Canted and straight which I changed anchor points between the 2.