Bow draw weight
04-30-2012, 08:43 AM
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Bow draw weight
Hi, I have just bought a PSE Revenge Bow and have not used it. I am unable to pull back the string because it is too tight, I have loosened the limb bolts but still the string is too hard to pull back. Could somebody please give me some advice as to what i am doing wrong?
04-30-2012, 09:12 AM
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CCCP (Calif)
Posts: 262
Sounds like you bought a bow too strong for you.
Compound bows are adjustible within a certain range.
Usually 80 to 90 lbs.
or 70 to 80 lbs.
or 60 to 70 lbs.
or 50 to 60 lbs. this is the most common one. mine is set to 55 lbs. and for me this is easy to draw and hold on target.
or 40 to 50 lbs. not usually less than 35 lbs.
Compound bows are adjustible within a certain range.
Usually 80 to 90 lbs.
or 70 to 80 lbs.
or 60 to 70 lbs.
or 50 to 60 lbs. this is the most common one. mine is set to 55 lbs. and for me this is easy to draw and hold on target.
or 40 to 50 lbs. not usually less than 35 lbs.
04-30-2012, 10:37 AM
#3
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NY: NYC to Watertown
Posts: 897
before fiddling with settings on your own,
take it to a range/shop and check what the poundage is set at,
and what draw length the bow is , and what you should be pulling
and see about having it adjusted to min setting on the bow.
then can work on form for drawing.
aside from poundage, if the draw length is too long, will have a hard time drawing it back, as your arm/shoulder has no leverage where you need it.
when drawing, its not just a straight pull,
but also pulling with your shoulders by twisting your shoulder back,
much more strength in shoulder than forearms,
if you still find yourself reaching for the sky when drawing, poundage is still too much,
there is a use for higher poundage bows,
but not for everyone,
and can get better accuracy and longer hold times with lower poundage bows.
my bow is a 60-70# bow set at 62,
next bow i get will probably be a 50-60# bow
take it to a range/shop and check what the poundage is set at,
and what draw length the bow is , and what you should be pulling
and see about having it adjusted to min setting on the bow.
then can work on form for drawing.
aside from poundage, if the draw length is too long, will have a hard time drawing it back, as your arm/shoulder has no leverage where you need it.
when drawing, its not just a straight pull,
but also pulling with your shoulders by twisting your shoulder back,
much more strength in shoulder than forearms,
if you still find yourself reaching for the sky when drawing, poundage is still too much,
there is a use for higher poundage bows,
but not for everyone,
and can get better accuracy and longer hold times with lower poundage bows.
my bow is a 60-70# bow set at 62,
next bow i get will probably be a 50-60# bow
05-07-2012, 04:09 PM
#4
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South New Jersey
Posts: 428
What ever you do, make sure you do not turn the limb bolts out to much.
If those limbs come off, you could get seriously injured.
Hate to loss an eye.
Some new Bear archery bows you can only turn the limb bolts 3 turns out max.
If those limbs come off, you could get seriously injured.
Hate to loss an eye.
Some new Bear archery bows you can only turn the limb bolts 3 turns out max.
05-18-2012, 12:02 PM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location:
Posts: 2,186
I think that the Revenge comes factory set with a 29" draw length. If you ordered it on-line, then it should be set at 29". Fortunately this design has a cam with a standard adjustment range from 24 1/2 inches to 30 inches. If you can draw the bow, but not break over the cam action, then the draw length needs to be reduced to your measurements. You can get a ropugh idea of the draw length by placing a yard stick on the rest, holding the rear end pinched between your thumb and index finger. Then draw back as you normally would. Where the yard stick measures to the front of your riser hand is a rough estimate of your draw lentgh. May have to put the bow in a bow vise to adjust the draw length.
If , however, you cannot get the bow started back much at all, then it is set way beyond your upper body strength. There should be instructions in the manual about how to safely adjust the draw weight. Usually the instruction is to screw them in to the max then back off "X" number of turns, about 1/4 turn at a time until you can draw the bopw comfoprtably. The booklet should also list the max number of turns. If you do not have the manual, I'd caution you about messing with the pull weight adjustments. As already mentioned, you get the adjustment bolt at the end of the threads and you'll be in for a mess for sure .. and possible injury.
If , however, you cannot get the bow started back much at all, then it is set way beyond your upper body strength. There should be instructions in the manual about how to safely adjust the draw weight. Usually the instruction is to screw them in to the max then back off "X" number of turns, about 1/4 turn at a time until you can draw the bopw comfoprtably. The booklet should also list the max number of turns. If you do not have the manual, I'd caution you about messing with the pull weight adjustments. As already mentioned, you get the adjustment bolt at the end of the threads and you'll be in for a mess for sure .. and possible injury.
05-20-2012, 05:13 AM
#6
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,746
I am not sure where you bought your bow or what the setting is for it. There should be a sticker on the bow stating what the draw weight range is. Also, I have no idea as to your stature and strength.
From your post I assumed you didn't get your bow from an archery shop - or at least a reputable one. A decent shop would have helped you with all your archery problems you are having. Another thing, just unscrewing the limbs not only changes the draw weight but also the tiller setting. And if the tiller setting is off - which it problably is now, your bow will not shoot as accurately as it should even if you could draw it back.
My guess is you bought a bow that has a draw weight way too heavy for you. If you are young you can get a 35-50# draw weight bow that, set at 40#, will easily kill any whitetail around if you plan on hunting with it. (I shot quite a few deer way back when with a 40# recurve)
I suggest if it is possible, to take it back and get a bow that you can handle or get your money back and go somewhere to someone who can help you make the proper selection.
From your post I assumed you didn't get your bow from an archery shop - or at least a reputable one. A decent shop would have helped you with all your archery problems you are having. Another thing, just unscrewing the limbs not only changes the draw weight but also the tiller setting. And if the tiller setting is off - which it problably is now, your bow will not shoot as accurately as it should even if you could draw it back.
My guess is you bought a bow that has a draw weight way too heavy for you. If you are young you can get a 35-50# draw weight bow that, set at 40#, will easily kill any whitetail around if you plan on hunting with it. (I shot quite a few deer way back when with a 40# recurve)
I suggest if it is possible, to take it back and get a bow that you can handle or get your money back and go somewhere to someone who can help you make the proper selection.
