well...basically, what bow? heh. anyways, I am looking to get into bowhunting this year. never have hunted with Bow before, and I hope to be impressed! I do not have any clue as to whats good for a beginner, and what isnt. My stats are: Im 16 years old, around 190 lbs, 5' 10' ' , if that matters, and I can pull back proll 50-60 lbs? I know that the Let off will probably have to be like 70-80%, but that' s about all i know, I am planning to take a trip to a local archery shop pr something, but I' d like some tips before hand, so as to know what im lookin for. thanks in advance!!

MDM

Here are a few terms that I think will help you out, brace height, ata (axle to axle) and draw length.

Brace height put in simple terms, is the measurement from the throat of the bow' s grip to the string. For a person just starting out in archery I would suggest getting a bow with no less than a 7 inch brace height. Theoretically a higher brace height will be more forgiving of flaws in your shooting form. It will cost a person some speed but in the scope of things, that is really minor at this point.

Axle to axle (ata) is the measurement between the bows axles. This has come to be the accepted method of measuring how long a bow is. Again theoretically a longer ata, all things being equal, will be a more accurate bow. Most people consider a bow that is under 34" to be a short ata.

Draw length, in its simplest form could be defined as how far a person pulls the string back before accuracy starts to deteriorate. Identifying your correct draw length is critical to accuracy and comfort (avoiding being slapped on the wrist). I have always had good luck with the old wingspan method of finding a persons draw length. Normally it will get a person within a half an inch of the correct number but you will need a helper to run the tape measure. Stand up straight and spread your arms out 90 degrees (you should be forming a " T" shape with your body). Have your helper measure from the tip of middle finger to the tip of your other middle finger. Subtract 15 from that figure and then divide the difference by 2. Again that should get you close to your correct draw length. It is surprising how many archers draw lengths are too long. The flaw really shows up when hunting with bulky clothes on in cold weather, not to mention the inhibited accuracy it causes in the mean time.

There are many good bows on the market today so I' m not even going to get into brand names. The one thing you will have to do is shoot as many as you are interested in and choose the one that you feel fits you best.

It is very easy to become intoxicated with speed. While it is a plus to be fast, in this game, like so many others, you don' t get something for nothing. Often times to gain something you have to be willing to give another thing up. The fastest bows usually have the harder pulling cams, short valleys, and low brace heights. Any one of these can be a bit of a handicap when a big buck is walking by your stand presenting a difficult angle to shoot from. In other words " the fastest" isn' t always the best.

The last thing I would mention is that is also easy to be over bowed. By that I mean pulling to much weight. The correct term is draw weight. For now I would stay in the 50-60 pound range and you should be able to be very accurate and deliver a swift arrow.

There are of course " other things" to discuss but this should get you started in the right direction. Fasten your seat belt my friend, you are about to embark on a journey that will leave a lifetime of exciting memories in it' s wake.

Good luck!

This link should prove to be helpful too.

http://www.huntersfriend.com/bowselection.htm

Thank You Very Very Very Much, This, Undoubtedly will Help me, thanks again!

You are very, very, very, welcome.