Bulzeye

RELATED QUESTION:
Does anybody besides me bother to install an in-line fuse for their troller power? Could a lack of current protection be the cause of blown PC boards? I would think so.

I'm new to this troller thing, but everything electronic (DC)that I work on is fused, has a circuit breaker, thermal safety cutout, or has other power limited provisions to prevent damage from overloads.

I blew mytroller's fuse the other day when I stuck the prop in the bottom for too long. Motor was fine, but I had to have my on-board engineer (me)make an emergency repair to restore power. (alwayskeep tools onboard )

carpsniper

That's exactly what happens. Sticking the prop on the bottom causes what is basically a dead short. The switch or board is the weak link and melts. [:@]

Bulzeye

Then I'm definitely keeping some protection in thecircuit on my boat, although I'm leaning toward a resettable breaker instead of a fuse, or at least in addition to one.

Fuses = cheap and easy
Motor = expensive and P.I.T.A.

carpsniper

So.......how do we calculate what size fuse/breaker to use?

Bulzeye

I asked the same thing at Gander Mtn when I bought my Minn Kota Endura 36# last fall. They looked at me like I was from another planet, and asked why I wouldn't just direct wire it to the battery. I said "because I don't want to be back here next week looking for a repair or a new motor". They insisted that they've always direct wired and never had a problem. Apparently, they don't power through 8 inch deep muck and blow up motors like we do, or they assume that the occasional smoked motor is just a fact of life, and that it can't be prevented.

I decided to figure it out myself, so I would simply need the current draw of the motor in question when under maximum load and then multiply by 1.25 to keep the draw under 80%of the rating of the wire and fuse (it's a reciprocal thing ). No dice. Apparently 'current draw' is notpart ofthe lingo of most troller users since all I could find listed was 'pounds of thrust' and 'estimated run time'. [:@]

OK, it was time to fall back and punt. I just used the wire size that was pre-wired to the troller as a guide (which meant opening up the motor's box in the store). It had 10 gauge wire (not marked of course like any normal wire would be -I had togo getwire strippers from my car to check the size [:@]). OK, I know 10 gauge wire is good for 30 amps, soI asked for a fuse holder and a small box of 30 amp 1-1/4" fuses for spares. I found them myself before the guys were even done discussing what isle theyMIGHT be in IF they had any.

The short answer is...
-find out the current draw and multiply by 1.25
OR
-measure the factory wire size, and use that as a guide
>14 gauge = 15 amps
>12 gauge = 20 amps
>10 gauge = 30 amps
OR
-call the manufacturer and ask them to recommend one.
(Hope they dont' say "why wouldn't you just keep blowing up your motor and put my kids through college by continuing to buy new motors and parts.")

Mark S

On BUSA somebody recently posted the chart for the amperages of every minn kota motor. I'd have to look for it again but it seems to me the highest amperage was around 55 amps for the bigger trollers. I'd guess 30 amps of protection is a pretty safe bet for your 36 pound. When I used to rig Ranger boats I seem to remember the push button reset breakers were always around 50 amps.

RobinAim Low

I use an inline fuse, and breakers for both bat's. I have the monster 24 v Motorguide (86 lb, I think).

Mark, not sure where you live, but it would cost less than you think to get it fixed. Not sure where you live, but Tri-State Trolling Motor in Hazelwood, MO is quick, reliable, and fair priced. That problem is a common one, though I forget the problem.

Johnny b

A little help for a dummie.. I just bought a new Motorguide 60# 24 volt actually by mistake. I wanted a 12 volt. No one was in the sports dept to help, so i picked up the wrong one. Typical of me..Well after getting it all mounted and hooked I find out the problem. Can any one tell me any advantages of using a 24 volt instead of the 12?? Also it has the nice little light on top to see which way it is pointing. Of course the light on mine does not work. I pull the top off and the bulb is good??go figure. Too late to take it back. thanks..johnny b

Mark S

The biggest advantage with a 60lb. 24 volt is you'llget longer use of the trollerthan with just a 12 volt. Also after 55 lbs you can only get them in 24 or 36 volt. The disadvantage is the weight and cost of 2 batteries. The light in the head only comes on when you hit the trottle. Sounds like something's wrong inside.

I'm thinking seriously about getting the Wen Generator from Menards. Is that what you're running now and do you like it Johnny B?

HNI_Christine

Mark, do you have a Costco card?

They sell the 3500 watt gennys cheaper than Menards. They are the same thing, just different label.