Loose Powder?
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Still trying to learn as much as I can regarding muzzleloading... My friends all shoot the pellet style powder, but I was wondering what the loose powder has to offer? How do you measure and store the loose stuff for hunting situations? Is there a gadget out there that stores the applicable amount of powder while on stand better than most? Is there some sort of gauge you can use or does it need to be weighed? Any info you could share would be appreciated.
Thanks for your help in advance!
Thanks for your help in advance!
#2
Powder measures are used to measure out the desired amount of loose powder. There is no need to weigh the powder. Just find the charge in grains that works for you and measure it out by volume. The advantages of loose powder is you can custom the load more so, and it is a lot cheaper to shoot. As for storing the powder on stand while hunting, some simple 35mm film containers, plastic pill bottles, store bought speed loaders, there are lots of things you can store the loose powder in. All you do is pop the lid and dump it in.
The thing to remember is loose powder in some cases is stronger then the pellet powder so be sure you understand which ones are which and in what percentage...
The thing to remember is loose powder in some cases is stronger then the pellet powder so be sure you understand which ones are which and in what percentage...
#3
powder measures come in all shapes and sizes. This is my favorite one. It will cut the charge and even help you pour it easier down the bore....
Remember Triple Se7en FFg loose is 15% stronger then loose Pyrodex RS or Goex FFg. I am not sure how it compares to Black Mag3 or American Pioneer Powder.
Remember Triple Se7en FFg loose is 15% stronger then loose Pyrodex RS or Goex FFg. I am not sure how it compares to Black Mag3 or American Pioneer Powder.
#4
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 0
From: Slower Lower Delaware 1st State
cayugad,
Thats a nice measure. Never seen that one before."Traditions" also makes a very nice clear loader marked off in 30-140 increments.Put Conical or Sabot in one end and your exact powder charge in other.I mark the powder charge with a red marker. I put 3-4 of these loaders in my belt pocket/pouch.
Thats a nice measure. Never seen that one before."Traditions" also makes a very nice clear loader marked off in 30-140 increments.Put Conical or Sabot in one end and your exact powder charge in other.I mark the powder charge with a red marker. I put 3-4 of these loaders in my belt pocket/pouch.
#5
They make other measures that go all the way up to 150 grains but since I never shoot that large a charge, I always liked this other measure better. I just measure out a number of charges, put them in film containers and I have four speed loaders that I load, then I carry the projectiles in an Altoids tin that I pack quiet with cotten cleaning patches. This way I have swab material if I need it clean the bore between shots. All of this goes into a fanny pack with a short starter and tools to break the rifle down if need be, and my caps or primers.
#6
Great tips from Cayugad (as per usual)
The pellet is basically a marketing based product designed to "entice" folks into muzzleloading. The pellet is supposed to dramatically simplify the muzzleloading experience. Again, marketing fluff.
Get yourself a good powder measure in at least 5 grain increments.
There are some drawback's to pellet's:
They are fixed charge. Not all projectiles shoot well with a specific fixed charge combination. This is where loose powder really shines other than cost. With the loose powder, most of the time you can "dial in" the best charge for a given projectile. With pellets, you are regulated to 30gr or 50gr equivalents and combinations thereof.
Also, the cost is really an issue with pellet's being much more expensive to shoot.
Here is an example using one of the most popular pellet and loose powder makers Hodgdon 777 and Cabela's for pricing (forget the hazmat costs for a moment).
2-50cal 50gr Pellets equals about 85gr loose powder equivalent. Which is a good hunting charge.
Hodgdon 777 3F loose= $27/pound plus taxes if local or shipping and hazmat fees. 7000grains per pound or 82 shots per pound using 85gr powder per shot. or .32 cents a shot.
Hodgdon 777 50/50 Pellets= $23/100 plus taxes if local or shipping and hazmat fees (two required per shot to equal 85gr equivalent powder) or 50 shots per box using two pellets.
82 shots with pellets would cost $37.72 or .46 cents a shot.
If you shoot only in hunting situations, then pellet costs might not be such an issue. But if you shoot more than 50 times a year. Then loose powder is your best bet by far from a cost only standpoint.
My .02
The pellet is basically a marketing based product designed to "entice" folks into muzzleloading. The pellet is supposed to dramatically simplify the muzzleloading experience. Again, marketing fluff.
Get yourself a good powder measure in at least 5 grain increments.
There are some drawback's to pellet's:
They are fixed charge. Not all projectiles shoot well with a specific fixed charge combination. This is where loose powder really shines other than cost. With the loose powder, most of the time you can "dial in" the best charge for a given projectile. With pellets, you are regulated to 30gr or 50gr equivalents and combinations thereof.
Also, the cost is really an issue with pellet's being much more expensive to shoot.
Here is an example using one of the most popular pellet and loose powder makers Hodgdon 777 and Cabela's for pricing (forget the hazmat costs for a moment).
2-50cal 50gr Pellets equals about 85gr loose powder equivalent. Which is a good hunting charge.
Hodgdon 777 3F loose= $27/pound plus taxes if local or shipping and hazmat fees. 7000grains per pound or 82 shots per pound using 85gr powder per shot. or .32 cents a shot.
Hodgdon 777 50/50 Pellets= $23/100 plus taxes if local or shipping and hazmat fees (two required per shot to equal 85gr equivalent powder) or 50 shots per box using two pellets.
82 shots with pellets would cost $37.72 or .46 cents a shot.
If you shoot only in hunting situations, then pellet costs might not be such an issue. But if you shoot more than 50 times a year. Then loose powder is your best bet by far from a cost only standpoint.
My .02
#7
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Thanks guys, appreciate your feedback. Looks like I'll start with the loose powder. Getting everything ready for the range - first time with the muzzleloader!
Side question without starting a new post...
Barnes Expander MZ Sabots, what is the deal with the Spit-Fire Boattail? What is the benefit beyond the normal sabot round?
Thanks and appreciate all your feedback. Learning a lot here!
Piney
Side question without starting a new post...
Barnes Expander MZ Sabots, what is the deal with the Spit-Fire Boattail? What is the benefit beyond the normal sabot round?
Thanks and appreciate all your feedback. Learning a lot here!
Piney
#8
I shoot the Barnes 250 Expanders.. never shot a Spit fire boat tail unless the Expanders are considered that. Barnes makes a great bullet. They tend to shoot great out of most rifles, and the damage they do to game makes them a real winner in most peoples books.
#10
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 0
That's the same powder measure I use. When filling it, do you fill it right to the top and then when sliding the pour spout over some falls out? I'm wondering how accurate we have to be with the powder? Does a few grains more or less make a big difference?


